Bummer, the problem is that my existing switch is a single gang and I use the Hunter remote to control the light and fan speed. I don’t think I’m handy enough to convert my single gang to a dual.
Are there any options out there for a single gang switch?
This should work but won’t control speed… I bought 2 already and plan to buy more for my fan/light combos. If you are like most people you don’t change the fan speed much anyway.
As they have said there is only 2 official fan switches (that control fan speeds) but both are single gang switches with no option to control a light.
You other option is to put a double single gang switch which will control 2 loads on and off only no fan speeds. So you could have fan on/off and light on/off.
Personally I would cut out the old single box and replace with a double and use two GE switches. One on/off and One of their new GE fan switches for fan speed.
[quote=“FireBird, post:4, topic:185979”]This should work but won’t control speed… I bought 2 already and plan to buy more for my fan/light combos. If you are like most people you don’t change the fan speed much anyway.
This looks interesting, does is just attach to the existing switch on the wall (behind the plate)? The reviews say it is easy to install, but my experience is very limited. The only electrical changes I’ve made is to swap an existing outlet for a zwave outlet.
Yes these are made to hide behind the existing switch and work inline. You wire you incoming wires to this and the existing switch to this and this adds control in between like a 3 way switch would.
There is more then one brand of these. There is also a single and double (switch or load) version of these. They are not difficult, but my difficult and your might be different. Hardest part is making everything fit into the box. This device is small, but with more wires and who knows what size box you have some might find it impossible to make room or squish it in your existing box behind your switch.
These are usually easier to install in a double gang box or with a large deep box.
Why couldn’t you install two a-wave switches at the fan? You could install a dimmer for the light and a binary for the fan speed. You’d only get on/off control of the fan speed but you should be able to get independent control over light/fan function without having to run a separate switch and wire. The trick would be to hide the wiring and two Zwave switches either above the ceiling or inside the fan shroud. This is what I plan to do with my fans (minus the dimmer). I plan to use the aeon labs switches.
Few problems. One they don’t make a Fan/dimming switch that hides like you want. There is only 2 fan switches I know of and they are full switched not micro switches.
Also when you kill power on the wall switch you would loose power to the 2 switches up in the light, which means they loose z-wave and connection. You’ll get errors and have issues with them diapering and reappearing from the z-wave network.
Bottomline you only have 2 fan speed controlled switches at this time. If you want on and off only there is already options.
@integlikewhoa - I think you misread his post. He’s talking about using a binary(On/Off) microswitch for the fan and a dimmer for the fan’s light. This will absolutely work just fine. Also, there should be enough wires for the switches. Depending on exactly how the house is wired, it may not be possible to put the microswitches above the fan, but if that is the case, they can certainly work in the switch box.
[quote=“Z-Waver, post:10, topic:185979”]@integlikewhoa - I think you misread his post. He’s talking about using a binary(On/Off) microswitch for the fan and a dimmer for the fan’s light. This will absolutely work just fine. Also, there should be enough wires for the switches. Depending on exactly how the house is wired, it may not be possible to put the microswitches above the fan, but if that is the case, they can certainly work in the switch box.
I presume you are referring to @Kmitchel’s post. Though he said he’s not handy enough to replace the gang box, he’s going to have to. It might work with a Deep Single Gang Box but his best bet is to install a Dual Gang Box with switches and micro switches in the box.
The fun might be getting the old box out. If you are careful cutting in the new one, you may only have to touch up a couple of small spots. Definitely the best way to go.
Make sure you exclude these devices first before you try to include them in your Z-Wave Network ( I had to do this on both of them). If you have any other questions or problems installing them let me know.
[quote=“Grwebster, post:13, topic:185979”]If you are careful cutting in the new one, you may only have to touch up a couple of small spots. Definitely the best way to go.[/quote]That’s what cover plates are for.
[quote=“Kmitchel, post:14, topic:185979”]“He” is actually a “she”. ;)[/quote]I remain convinced that you can do it, or get a more experienced friend to do it. Good luck.
[quote=“Z-Waver, post:16, topic:185979”]“He” is actually a “she”. ;)[/quote]I remain convinced that you can do it, or get a more experienced friend to do it. Good luck.
[/quote]
You can learn alot on Youtube… Just make sure the beaker is off and that the one that is off is the right one, or kill the master.
[quote=“Kmitchel, post:19, topic:185979”]In a different bedroom, I have a fan with no light fixture. I purchased the GE Smart Fan control (12730).
I only have a black and a red wire in the existing switch (no white, neutral wire).
It says to “connect the white wire to the neutral terminal (use included jumper if needed)”.
Since I don’t have the neutral/white wire, how do I install the jumper? It does not say in the instructions.[/quote]
All z-wave switches need neutral wires. It has to have power and neutral to keep the switch powered up for the z-wave. If you don’t have a neutral you need to run a neutral.
The jumper wire is there to hook from the neutral wire nut to the switch. Usually in newer house the white wires are wire nutted together in the back of the box but not hooked up to the switch.