Thanks! Doesn’t look like it supports true scenes (as @PurdueGuy meant); but does support associations (presumably to configure which devices are part of the scene) and a proprietary set of commands. So possibly a proprietary way of implementing the scenes they talk about.
Sorry, I don’t know what you mean.[/quote]
Can Vera talk directly to the device, not routing through another device?
Sorry, I don’t know what you mean.[/quote]
Can Vera talk directly to the device, not routing through another device?[/quote]
If that’s the same as being neighbors, then yes, the switches and Vera are neighbors to each other.
Very curious - what is the minimum load for these dimmers? I wonder whether a group of 6-8 Ecosmart 9.5W LED bulbs in recessed cans would effectively dim…?
I know these are incandescent dimmers, but I remember reading somewhere that some LED bulbs would work with incandescent dimmers as long as there was a minimum load.
Thanks!
I just checked the two CA3000s that I have installed. They are installed on the same box in the bathroom.
I checked with the Leviton programmer, and both are associated with Vera.
When Vera is in its usual spot (top of the stairs) the updates are NOT reported in the GUI. When I moved Vera to the same room, the updates were immediate. It looks like they don’t have a route back to Vera for asynchronous messages? (Vera probably includes a route back when sending messages, so they node knows how to reply/ACK).
For testing, I turned on verbose logging and disabled polling, then waited for the logging to calm down.
Note: I get an “unhanded event” even when it works, but in the “works” log, it looks like Vera immediately does a poll? shrug
Feel free to inspect the attached logs!
Interesting, thanks for the additional data.
I find my CA3000’s sometimes report immediately as well. When they do work, I see a “node NNN status 0x84 not expected, polling instead…” message. I also see the same message in your working log, but not in your non-working log, so maybe that has something to do with it as well:
[tt]24 05/07/12 17:12:14.969 ZWaveNode::HandleApplicationUpdate node 100 status 0x84 not expected, polling instead config 1 last attempt 1336435934 <0x803>
10 05/07/12 17:12:14.971 Job::Job created <0xbd4360> name job#84 :pollnode_hau #100 (0xbd4360) <0x803>[/tt]
Without access to the LuaUPnP source code, and the Z-Wave NDA covered specs, I guess I’ll be relying on MCV to figure this one out. 
Hugh
If the device supports associations, Vera might always try to associate herself.
Has anybody tried associating another dimmer or switch into group 1 of the Intermatic’s, just to see if that does anything?
Like most manufacturers, they are probably not allowed to report instant status. I believe the workaround for that is the devices (like these, GE, Evolve, etc.) (re-)broadcast their capabilities (that’s the 0x84, followed by what includes the supported command classes). If Vera didn’t expect this frame (as opposed to when being in inclusion mode), she interprets this as an indicator of a state change and goes out and polls the device.
Hey, it worked! I know that I had tried this before, but since I really don’t understand this stuff, I had probably messed it up. I set an association of one CA600 switch with another. Lo and behold, when I turned on that switch, it also turned on the other. Once the association is set-up, the switches must communicate directly, as there was no activity in the Vera log or the UI. I tried a second switch for testing, and it also worked, including controlling a Homesettings brand switch.
Procedure:
In the configuration for the ‘control’ switch, select the Device Options tab.
Under Group ID, enter “1” then select “Add group”
Select “Set” and choose the other devices to be controlled
Close the dialog box, click Save and Continue
Wait…
Hey, it worked! I know that I had tried this before, but since I really don’t understand this stuff, I had probably messed it up. I set an association of one CA600 switch with another. Lo and behold, when I turned on that switch, it also turned on the other. Once the association is set-up, the switches must communicate directly, as there was no activity in the Vera log or the UI. I tried a second switch for testing, and it also worked, including controlling a Homesettings brand switch.
Procedure:
In the configuration for the ‘control’ switch, select the Device Options tab.
Under Group ID, enter “1” then select “Add group”
Select “Set” and choose the other devices to be controlled
Close the dialog box, click Save and Continue
Wait…[/quote]
And I think it matters if the device you want to control is either on or off… when you setup the associations. I think that the behavior will be opposite depending on the state of the controlled device when associated… @kkl can you confirm? I bought these swtiches as well but will be a few weeks before I can time to play with them.
My tests were by no means exhaustive, but I didn’t see a difference in the state of the light vs the outcome.
Whether each light was on or off didn’t matter. Turning the “main” switch on made all the others I had associated with it turn on (Leviton, GE, & another CA3000). I started with the Leviton and GE on, and the CA3000 off. They stayed in sync*.
- = only presses of the “main” switch caused the other associated switches to turn on or off. A Z-wave command to the switch caused only the main switch to turn on or off. If the switch was on, and I pressed “on” again, then the other lights jumped back in sync.
I do not have any CA600s to test, but I tested with a Leviton VRI06. I’m obviously too tired to figure out the pattern. It seems to “learn” whatever the dimmer is set to when the “main” switch turns on (even if the dimmer isn’t on). From then on, for the duration of the time the “main” switch is on, any time you press “on” again, the dimmer seems to go to the same preset level. Turn the “main” switch off, adjust the dimmer to another position, and turn the “main” switch back on…the dimmer now has a new “default” level.
Or am I tired and making no sense?? ???
I may be (likely) confusing this with some ATC Homepro switches I had…
can you guys clue me in regarding electrical wiring of the CA3000. my existing standard on/off switch has 2 wires connected to it; one coming from the circuit breaker (line) and another going to the light (load i guess). they are both black. there are several white wires tied together and black wires also tied together - the outdoor food lights share with this same circuit breaker. CA3000 has 5 wires: white, black, blue, green and yellow. can i just tie the white to the wire going to the light and the black coming from the circuit breaker. do i need the green, yellow and blue? thanks.
[quote=“waltzer11, post:72, topic:171262”]can you guys clue me in regarding electrical wiring of the CA3000. my existing standard on/off switch has 2 wires connected to it; one coming from the circuit breaker (line) and another going to the light (load i guess). they are both black. there are several white wires tied together and black wires also tied together - the outdoor food lights share with this same circuit breaker. CA3000 has 5 wires: white, black, blue, green and yellow. can i just tie the white to the wire going to the light and the black coming from the circuit breaker. do i need the green, yellow and blue? thanks.[/quote]Is this a single switch to control the light?
Assuming the whites are neutral (big assumption lately!) then, you would do
CA3000 white to box white
CA3000 black to box black (from circuit breaker)
CA3000 blue to box black (load)
CA3000 green to ground
CA3000 yellow is unused
Assuming the whites are neutral (big assumption lately!) then, you would do
CA3000 white to box white. do you mean just tap the CA3000 white to all the white wires tied together?
CA3000 black to box black (from circuit breaker). this is clear and straight forward
CA3000 blue to box black (load). clear and straight forward
CA3000 green to ground. clear.
CA3000 yellow is unused. clear
so i am only confused with the CA3000 white to box white (the first one). thanks again.[/quote]
In theory, yes. That bundle of white wires should be coming in from the panel and branching out to all the other destinations.
A few questions…
How many switches are in the box? (More than one, I’m guessing?)
How many “sets” of wires are there? (You would usually have one in from the breaker, one to each set of items being controlled, and possible a final set out to providing line and neutral to another location.)
To verify, the LINE from the breaker is part of a set that has a white line into the bundle?
To verify, the LOAD to the light is part of a set that has a white line into the bundle?
[quote=“PurdueGuy, post:75, topic:171262”]In theory, yes. That bundle of white wires should be coming in from the panel and branching out to all the other destinations.
A few questions…
How many switches are in the box? (More than one, I’m guessing?)
How many “sets” of wires are there? (You would usually have one in from the breaker, one to each set of items being controlled, and possible a final set out to providing line and neutral to another location.)
To verify, the LINE from the breaker is part of a set that has a white line into the bundle?
To verify, the LOAD to the light is part of a set that has a white line into the bundle?[/quote]
thank you again. there are 2 switches in the box; 1 for the ceiling fan (i am only controlling the lights in the fan, which has 2 pull cords; 1 for the light and another for the fan). the other switch is for the flood lights in the backyard. these 2 switches share the same circuit breaker. ok, i will check the sets of wire tomorrow and verify the LINE and the LOAD from your description. thanks for your help and will let you know.
I’d expect programming the association is just that. I suppose you could try setting up an association with a device that’s powered down.
The last dim level is kept locally in the device. The controller just tells it to go to that last dim level (as opposed to a set level, or on).
You’re telling ME! 
My previous home had a box with three switches and it had loads from not 1 not 2 but THREE different breakers in the panel… Make for some real -fun- when you turn the … ‘boxes breaker’ off and think… Okay now it’s safe to work! :o
Lucky for me I was hammered in at a very early age to only use one hand when working on a box you don’t know the full history of.
Or buy a sensor to check for live wires…
I’m so paranoid I still use it on my own home with boxes that I know.
[quote=“homejones, post:64, topic:171262”]Very curious - what is the minimum load for these dimmers? I wonder whether a group of 6-8 Ecosmart 9.5W LED bulbs in recessed cans would effectively dim…?
I know these are incandescent dimmers, but I remember reading somewhere that some LED bulbs would work with incandescent dimmers as long as there was a minimum load.
Thanks![/quote]
I tried it with 4x18W FEIT LED lights and it didn’t work. If turned off, the lights would flicker. I also tested it with 4x8.5W LEDs and had the same issue.
FWIW I have GE (4560x) Dimmers that control both successfully