Any way to have the led on the CA3000 come on when the light is off? Similar to what the levitons do? This would allow to see the switch at night time.
- Garrett
Any way to have the led on the CA3000 come on when the light is off? Similar to what the levitons do? This would allow to see the switch at night time.
My GE/JASCO switches/dimmers to the same thing and I prefer that . The CA600/CA3000 do not do this out of the box it seems. I could have sworn I read a while back you could send the CA600/CA3000 a command to introduce that behaviour but I can’t find that article at this time.
Give intermatic support a call and they might just give you the full internals docs if you ask nicely. I have done this with products in the past with good results.
Okay color me stumped…
I have a standard 2way switch … Standard home hallway…
Line → Switch1 <—3 wires —> Ceiling Fixture <— 3 wires —> Switch2
Switch1 has:
A 2 wire + ground from brakerbox
A 3 wire + ground going to the ceiling fixture (black white red)
Ceiling Fixture has:
The 3 wire bundle from SW1
Anither 3 wire bundle going to SW1
switch2 has:
The 3 wire from the ceiling fixture.
My issue is how do a do this?
Can I use 2 ca600’s … I didnt think I could us two ca600’s in the same switch/fixture circuit.
I also have ca3000’s but the need a neutral don’t they? And the 3 wire from the fixture doesn’t contain a neutral the white wire is actually a hot I think.
I also have the ca5300 ?? Companion switch however that too seems to want a neutral…
Can this not be put together given I have available ca600s , ca3000s & ca5100s (?) ???
Three-way circuits can be wired in many non-standard ways. Can you tell from this page, http://www.homeimprovementweb.com/information/how-to/three-way-switch.htm, which type you have? Sounds like you might have Option 3. Sometimes the white wire is used as a traveler; it’s common to mark it with black electrical tape when this is done.
Can I use 2 ca600's ... I didnt think I could us two ca600's in the same switch/fixture circuit.That's right - only one per circuit. Any other switches are the standard variety.
I also have ca3000's but the need a neutral don't they? And the 3 wire from the fixture doesn't contain a neutral the white wire is actually a hot I think.Yes, the CA3000 needs a neutral, and a neutral also needs to return from the light. Depending on your wiring, this might still be possible.
I also have the ca5300 ?? Companion switch however that too seems to want a neutral...I assume you mean the CA5100. Yes, it also needs a neutral. I converted a 3-switch circuit to a 2-switch circuit originating from a CA600 by bypassing the middle switch and using a CA5100 in its place. If you only have single switches in the SW1 and SW2 box, presumably you have a neutral coming in with the line (power). Again, it might be possible to use a CA5100 depending on the available wires.
Yep… It’s number 3 … Power to the switch then 3 wire to overhead then 3 wire to the far switch. In fact I’m 99% sure it’s from a switch located in a walkin closet located behind the wall in the hall where the switch is. It dawned on me when I saw three sets of 2 wires entering the closet light switch.
I think the attached diagram will work for you. I’m no electrician, so proceed at your own risk. The controversy, as far as I’m concerned, is what type of standard switch to use. I prefer to use a standard single-pole switch when there is only one additional switch with the CA600/3000. If your instructions don’t show this, see attachment from this post: [url=http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php/topic,10295.msg70601.html#msg70601]http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php/topic,10295.msg70601.html#msg70601[/url]. From my experience, it’s too easy to screw up the jumpered three-way switch, and some of us have had problems even when everything is wired correctly. I have also used a three-way switch without a jumper as per the HA14 wiring diagram ([url=http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php/topic,10295.msg71020.html#msg71020]http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php/topic,10295.msg71020.html#msg71020[/url]).
Thanks for the post it really helped untangle the mess that I always find myself in WRT 3ways. ;D
Question is… would I be able to use the CA5100 at that SW2 local? I was certain that saw read or was led to believe that that was one of its primary reasons for being … Since is doesn’t actually control a load of its own. If not ten I got about 6 of those suckers that I’ve got no use for.
Using an traditional switch isn’t the end of the world but all things being equal I’d rather have an intermatic switches.
Anyway thanks again for all the help!
Yes, it looks to me like you have adequate wiring to do that (see attachment). In this scenario, your CA600 would be wired as a single switch with the yellow wire unused. You would use the white wire to connect the neutral at the light and the CA5100. You could use the red (or black) wire to pass the line (hot) through to the 5100. I have one CA5100 that I was able to associate with a CA600, but I have not been able to get it to dim - just off/on.
This is great… Your help is much appreciated! ;D
I think I’ll try and make up a pack of graphics that details all these things (with your permission) and try to put it in the wiki. I’d give credit of course AND put a mega disclaimer that these instructions are for entertainment purposes only yadda yadda etc etc etc.
Thanks again!
Glad to help. If you want to post about this in the wiki, that would be great.
Do you guys know if there’s a way to directly associate a switch (CA3000) with a motion detector (intermatic CA9000). I have a scene setup but there’s a delay of 2-3 seconds between the detector being tripped and the switch flipping. I vaguely recall something about groups related to that but can’t find the specifics
One of the ca3000 switches I installed stopped controlling the load. The red led is rapidly flashing. It was working the one moment and a little later started the flashing. This happened about 3 days after installation. I have not even included it in the network yet.
Any idea what the red flashing means?
That it’s broken? ;D Sorry couldn’t help myself. I have found that sometimes removing power to the switch (i.e. trip the breaker) can reset them. Also forcing an exclude from Vera might as well.
Anyone figure out how to get the LED to light up when the switch is off?
That it’s broken? ;D Sorry couldn’t help myself. I have found that sometimes removing power to the switch (i.e. trip the breaker) can reset them. Also forcing an exclude from Vera might as well.[/quote]
Thanks that worked. I was just wondering why I could not find a manual with error codes that explained the meaning of the led flicker
[quote=“PurdueGuy, post:75, topic:171262”]In theory, yes. That bundle of white wires should be coming in from the panel and branching out to all the other destinations.
A few questions…
How many switches are in the box? (More than one, I’m guessing?)
How many “sets” of wires are there? (You would usually have one in from the breaker, one to each set of items being controlled, and possible a final set out to providing line and neutral to another location.)
To verify, the LINE from the breaker is part of a set that has a white line into the bundle?
To verify, the LOAD to the light is part of a set that has a white line into the bundle?[/quote]
thanks PurdueGuy, following your instructions, i just installed 2 CA3000 and i can manually operate the switch on/off successfully. the only problem is that the ceiling fan does not work anymore, only the ceiling fan light turns on/off. i have not paired the switches with vera2 yet.
[quote=“Intrepid, post:17, topic:171262”]Thanks for posting this, radar.
I just noticed this thread this morning, and there was a CA3000 pack with no bids, so I bought it. I already have 3 of these for ceiling fans and they work great. Under $20/each is a good deal.[/quote]
hi, i just installed CA3000 for my ceiling fan - only the lights of the fan turns on/off; the fan is not moving at all. i followed PurdueGuy’s instruction below. i would appreciate if you can give me some hint with your “hook-up”. thanks.
Assuming the whites are neutral (big assumption lately!) then, you would do
CA3000 white to box white
CA3000 black to box black (from circuit breaker)
CA3000 blue to box black (load)
CA3000 green to ground
CA3000 yellow is unused
Not to sound rude, but are both the lights and fan suppose to turn on at the same time? Did you check to make sure the fan is on at the fan itself? What was in there prior t adding the new switch?
[quote=“garrettwp, post:99, topic:171262”]Not to sound rude, but are both the lights and fan suppose to turn on at the same time? Did you check to make sure the fan is on at the fan itself? What was in there prior t adding the new switch?
prior to installing the CA3000, i had a regular on/off switch. the fan and the lights has their own separate pull cords. the cord for the light is now on so that when i turn the CA3000 “on” the lights come on. i pulled the fan cord several times and nothing happens. will probably restore the old switch to find out if the fan will work. thanks for your input.
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