There may be additional configuration necessary, depending on your desired behavior.
Everything you need is in the manual and this thread.
ZWaver I cannot thank you enough for your contribution towards helping me out with the diagram to setup the garage door switch and ZFM-80. Now I have also integrated a nfc tag on the garage door that opens the door when I bring my phone near it. And another nfc tag to close the door. Works like a charm. Thanks.
Moving on the next level, I would like to use the same switch for my door opener… not the door that has a zwave lock,. this is a door thats shared among other neighbours in a town home, that is propelled by an external switch in each of the houses. this is in a town home and when someone rings a bell we push the switch to open the door for the visitor to open the door. There is also a conference speaker to speak/hear, although i dont care about the speaker. I am attaching few pictures of the current setup I was thinking if I can attach the ZFM-80 switch within the gang box which is pretty big to accommodate the Remotec switch hidden inside. Is it possible to wire this switch for this application?
Please have a look at the wiring for the push button switch, although some wires from the push button go to the speakers also, but i think we just need wires coming to the Remotec from the push button only that triggers to open the door
Plan is to have a nfc tag later on to propel to unlock the door that uses this manual switch. This way we also dont need to use the lock to unlock the door, instead use the phone against the nfc tag to unlock the door.
Remotec ZFM-80
This sounds interesting. But, you failed to attach the pictures.
I’m sure that everyone would like to see pictures of your NFC setup as well.
oops i think i missed the pictures.
attaching them here.
This is the buttons on the outside that people press that rings the door bell which is the speaker you can see in the above pictures.
Also,
attaching the
pictures of the nfc tag… this is so easier… just place the phone on the tag and it opens the garage door, instead of launching any app and pressing the buttons.
There is an nfc tag for the house door as well that uses a zwave kwikset lock, although we dont use it much, cos its easier to punch in the password while standing next to the lock instead sticking a phone to the tag and wait for the command to execute. However we do have one nfc tag that is little farther away from the door while getting up the stairs… by the time i get up the stairs to the door, the nfc launches the door to open. 
Well coming back to the intercom opener… pls look at the images above… i am damn sure there is a way to attach the switch to this.
unable to attach pictures using the forums default option, instead uploading to an external host. Please pardon my confusion.
Your intercom opener looks like a standard momentary switch. So, I would expect the ZFM-80 or any other dry contact switch to work with it.
I would check the intercom switch with a voltmeter first, just to ascertain what voltage I was working with and whether it is DC or AC. I don’t enjoy getting shocked.
You should be able to use a ZFM-80, connected similarly to my last garage door picture, to bridge the red and white wires.
So maybe i’m missing something but I just assumed that the “external switch” connectors is what I would plug my bell wires into (that lead back to the garage door opener unit), Like the picture I have attached. Should I actually be attaching my bell wires to the “Relay Load” connectors instead?
Yes the relay load is what is switched by the relay.
The external switch is if you want to put an external switch to control the relay.
[quote=“RichardTSchaefer, post:47, topic:175041”]Yes the relay load is what is switched by the relay.
The external switch is if you want to put an external switch to control the relay.[/quote]
Welp that was it. For some reason I thought the Remotec WAS the external switch and that the bell wires should be connected to those inputs. I hooked it up the right way and it worked as it should. Thanks for the help!
Got everything wired in and working today. Whoever designed these is kind of an idiot. Why would you make something that fits in a standard electrical box but doesn’t fit a standard cover plate. The switches look like they fit yet they don’t. I spent almost an hour just filing down my face plate so they would fit in there. Not to mention they sit recessed back behind the face plate. So since I wanted them to mount flush I had to remove the mounts and drill new holes in them so the switch would sit more forward. A lot of work for something that should have been standard. Lets hope they don’t break anytime soon.
This question is similar to what sdittoc & Zwaver were discussing… It goes back a few replies in the thread… Don’t mean to hijack but I am having the same concern and I don’t know what the answer is in this case… It seemed like the best thread to work with.
My plan is to install the aeon labs door/window switch and the LFM-80 to operate my door. I went out tonight to look at how my setup is wired, and discovered an issue. I have liftmaster motors and on my wall mounted switch I have he ability to also control the light and “lock” the door so it won’t open via the remote. (Sounded similar to sdittoc setup) I was going to find the wires that open/close the door and put the LFM80 between those wires and the motor, however I discovered that there are only 2 actual control wires going into the motor from the switch/control. That means somehow the switch/controller is able to send a different signal to the motor telling it to open/close or to operate the light, etc and if I put the LFM80 between the controller and the motor I don’t know what result I will get if I activate it. I don’t know that the LFM80 will be compatible with my setup now.
I want to add the Zwave but I need my wall mounted switch to work too. Do I have to take the switch apart and try to isolate which wires in the switch are for door open/close and tap into it there? I was ready to install the LFM80 near the opener not the switch.
This was my concern because I wanted the ability to use the existing two button switch for the garage light. My switch only has two wires going to it as well. I hooked it up on a ladder for testing first. I ran an extension cord for power to the zfm80 and ran two wires from zfm80 to the opener. I hooked the two wires up on the back of the opener and left my two button wall switch attached as well. I then tested the functionality of my wall switch.
Edit - I responded to this very early in the morning and stopped in mid thought sorry…
I then tested the functionality of my wall swicth and I was able to open/close the door and turn on and off the light in the gargae using the existing two button switch that came with the opener. I had the zfm80 installed in the ceiling next to the power outlet for the garage door opener and ran two wires to hook up to the back of the opener where the existing wall button is connected.
@DaveH28 - The ZFM-80 will still work with your setup if connected as described in the later portion of this thread. The only caveat is when the opener button is “smart” and has a clock in it. With those types, the activation of the ZFM-80 will cause the clock to lose power and the time will be reset.
To get around that issue, I use a handheld remote opener, like the ones clipped to your car’s visor. I use the ZMF-80 or similar relay to activate the remote, which then activates the door via the opener’s built in radio.
@sdittoc - That’s an interesting story. You really know how to leave them hanging!
Zwaver… Mine does not have a clock, etc.
So just to confirm… if I disconnect the two bell wires going into the opener, put a ZFM80 in between the wall switch and the opener, I can retain the full function of the OEM switch (light control etc) AND I will be able to use the zfm80 over zwave to operate the door ? I still don’t understand how the switch an send a separate signal to just turn the light on using the same two wires, but I guess I don’t care as long as you think it will work
Here is a link to the switch I have if it helps and a pic of the terminals on the opener
I’m going to order the ZFM80 I just wanted to make 100% sure I’ve got this correct.
[quote=“DaveH28, post:53, topic:175041”]Zwaver… Mine does not have a clock, etc.
So just to confirm… if I disconnect the two bell wires going into the opener, put a ZFM80 in between the wall switch and the opener, I can retain the full function of the OEM switch (light control etc) AND I will be able to use the zfm80 over zwave to operate the door ? I still don’t understand how the switch an send a separate signal to just turn the light on using the same two wires, but I guess I don’t care as long as you think it will work
Here is a link to the switch I have if it helps and a pic of the terminals on the opener
I’m going to order the ZFM80 I just wanted to make 100% sure I’ve got this correct.[/quote]
Do it this way. It will work as you describe.
Can you describe the “default remote”? Are you referring to the remote opener in the car, or are you referring to another wall mounted push button switch?
Assuming that you wired your ZFM-80 correctly, as per the diagram, I would suppose that you have not configured the ZMF-80 for an external push button.
In the Vera UI5 click Devices → ZMF-80 Wrench → Device Options → Add Configuration Settings.
In the variable field enter 1.
In the data size drop down choose 1 byte hex.
In the desired value field enter 1.
Also, as per the instructions, consider a fail safe time out configuration.
In the Vera UI5 click Devices → ZMF-80 Wrench → Device Options → Add Configuration Settings.
Add Configuration Settings.
In the variable field enter 2.
In the data size drop down choose 1 byte hex.
In the desired value field enter 1.
Add Configuration Settings.
In the variable field enter 3.
In the data size drop down choose 1 byte hex.
In the desired value field enter 1.
Add Configuration Settings.
In the variable field enter 4.
In the data size drop down choose 1 byte hex.
In the desired value field enter 0.
Then save your changes and the push button should work.[/quote]
Zwaver wanted to let you know that this is working perfectly fine now. The default push button plus the remotes and above functioning zwave garage door opener
Cannot thank you enough.[/quote]
Zwaver - It has been a few weeks but I finally got my ZFM80 and installed it today.
When I plugged it in, I was able to control the garage door from the ZFM80 push button and the vera.
I went into the configuration settings in UI5 and I input the settings exactly as you described above because I am using the existing lift master switch that we talked about before (and you said those settings are necessary for the external switch). The issue is, when I connect the wires from the wall switch, the ZFM80 starts going crazy. It’s clicking repeatedly like it’s being turned on and off every second. I can hear the garage motor trying to move as well. I unplugged the power to the opener and left the power on the ZFM80 and it continues to just click repeatedly. I disconnected it in fear that I would burn it out.
I am sure it’s a setting, but don’t know what to change. Somehow it’s interpreting the signal from my existing switch as a continuous signal.
What do I do? I really need the garage switch to work as well as the ZFM80…
You’ve been invaluable in figuring this stuff out…I hope you have the answer this time!
I was trying to quote the configuration settings you had earlier in this post but I can’t get it to quote properly
Update: I reversed the wiring on the existing garage door switch and that corrected the above problem
New problems:
-
I have lost the functionality of the light only control on the existing lift master switch. I half expected this and I can learn to live without it
-
When I integrated the ZFM80 into vera, I expected it to be a momentary switch - like when you push the button it should engage and then automatically disengage. Instead, MCV interprets this as an “on/off” appliance module. So when I want to activate the garage, I have to click it on, then it basically stays on until I’m ready to activate it again… Then I have to turn it off, and then back on. It works, but I just expected it to work differently. Any way to change that?
I also noticed that when I am using the existing lift master switch, sometimes I have to press that switch twice to activate the garage. The first time I press it, I hear the ZFM click once, like maybe that’s turning it on, and then the second push activates the garage. Again, not the end of the world, but different than what I expected.
Any input on being able to change any of this?
Thanks
I just went back and re-read this thread from the beginning. I found some of the answers there… I got caught up in the second half of the thread and forgot how it started… Sorry to ask a question that was already answered
So where are you with your issue? Or has the issue been resolved?
It sounds like you have the LiftMaster switch connected to the ZMF-80. This is not optimal and will cause the light control to not work, among other things. You should have it wired like the image below.
Set Parameter(variable) 1 value to 0 - No external switch.
Set Parameter(variable) 2 value to 1 - Timeout in minutes. AKA failsafe after 1 minute.
Set Parameter(variable) 4 value to 0 - Turns switch off after timeout has expired. 1 = on
Finally, you should activate the ZMF-80 within Vera from a scene rather than directly from the device. Make the scene turn the switch on. But add a an Off action to the scene with a 1 second delay.
Then when you activate the scene, it turns on the ZMF-80 and 1 second later it sends the Off command. But, if the ZMF-80 doesn’t get the Off command it will timeout(failsafe) and turn itself Off after 1 minute.
[quote=“Z-Waver”]So where are you with your issue? Or has the issue been resolved?
It sounds like you have the LiftMaster switch connected to the ZMF-80. This is not optimal and will cause the light control to not work, among other things. You should have it wired like the image below.
Set Parameter(variable) 1 value to 0 - No external switch.
Set Parameter(variable) 2 value to 1 - Timeout in minutes. AKA failsafe after 1 minute.
Set Parameter(variable) 4 value to 0 - Turns switch off after timeout has expired. 1 = on
Finally, you should activate the ZMF-80 within Vera from a scene rather than directly from the device. Make the scene turn the switch on. But add a an Off action to the scene with a 1 second delay.
Then when you activate the scene, it turns on the ZMF-80 and 1 second later it sends the Off command. But, if the ZMF-80 doesn’t get the Off command it will timeout(failsafe) and turn itself Off after 1 minute.[/quote]
Zwaver
Yes I do have the lift master switch wired into the ZFM80 but I have it wired just like that diagram. The light switch won’t work but I kind of expected that. This is the only switch I have to control it that’s hard wired. But it works the way you had me connect it- isn’t that ok?
Here’s where I’m at:
I made a trigger that turns the ZFM80 off 1 second after I turn it on, just like you said. So far, so good. I went out and tested it and everything appears to work. I can control the ZFM from my phone, and as I activate it I can see it turn right off. Then I can operate it from my lift master button. I think the reason the garage button was not responding before was because the ZFM was staying on for the minute before it shut off.
I set my configuration up based on the specs you gave to some one else earlier in the thread. Right now I have the external switch activated - I don’t want to change that, right? Then the switch will stop working.
Other than the light, I think I’m resolved, thanks to you :). I also haven’t tested out the “lock out” button yet but I rarely use that.
I have a pic of my install but I’m having issues attaching it now