Ok here it is. Not much to look at but it’s up out of view anyway! 
the curly red wire is from the lift master switch. I used an old extension cord for power!
I made a trigger that turns the ZFM80 off 1 second after I turn it on, just like you said.Until now, I have not used the word trigger anywhere in this thread. I did not recommend one. I am not saying that you cannot use one or that you should not use one. I am saying that you are not following MY directions if you are using triggers.
If you want the light and lockout buttons to work, basically the entire LiftMaster switch to work as normal, then you should run its wires directly to the opener. Then run another set of wires from the ZMF-80 to the opener. Like in my picture. In my last picture the LiftMaster switch does NOT got to the ZMF-80, it goes directly to the garage door opener.
If you follow the directions, everything works.
Ah I see it now, I didn’t catch that the pic was modified from when I looked at it earlier in the thread… I don’t know how I missed that, it makes perfect sense. Now your last post makes sense to me too, as far as disabling the external switch. Now that I see it, it’s perfectly obvious! 
As far as the “trigger” thing - I’m still new to scenes etc and so I meant to say scene not trigger… I made a scene where activating the ZFM80 is my “trigger” for the scene to run (and the scene then switches off the ZFM80 1 second after it starts). I incorrectly called it a trigger but it is indeed a scene like you described.
Man you really are a genius at this stuff! Thanks a million for your help!
I’m glad you got it working.
You are welcome.
Zwaver, I have ZFM-80 connected to my garage opener without an external switch similar to the picture you have attached. AC connected to L and N and relay connected to the opener. Im able to open the garage from the garage switch and from my IPhone. everything was working fine and was happy last night when I got to work. strangely this morning when I woke up my garage door was open. so I deleted the four configuration settings and I have none now. still I went out by using my garage remote control and when I comeback my garage door is open. Any idea what should I do?
@MalikAutomation - From the sound of it, there are a couple of possibilities.
-
You may have a scene or some other automation that is opening the door unexpectedly due to a trigger or timer.
Excluding the device and then including it back will remove the device from any scenes and will reset the configuration to default. -
You may have misconfigured the failsafe option to turn the switch On, rather than Off, after a period of time and it is opening the door.
Simply deleting the configuration parameters from the device in Vera will not change the configured settings in the device. I would recommend using the following configuration parameters. If they still don’t work, exclude the device and include it again. This will reset it to defaults and you can start over.
Set Parameter(variable) 1 value to 0 - No external switch.
Set Parameter(variable) 2 value to 1 - Timeout in minutes. AKA failsafe after 1 minute.
Set Parameter(variable) 4 value to 0 - Turns switch off after timeout has expired. 1 = on
All values are 1 byte hex.
Thanks I will start with option 2 and see how it goes. however you said before that we should use a scene to open the garage door. is this needed in my case?
The reason to use a scene, after the device is properly configured, is so that the ZFM-80 can be immediately turned back off. The scene should turn On the ZFM-80 and have a 1 second delay that then turns it back Off. If you don’t use the scene to immediately turn the device back Off, it remains in the On position until the failsafe shuts it Off 60 seconds later. But, your door will not respond properly to other activations from the ZFM-80 or external buttons or controllers during that 60 second period that the ZFM-80 remains in the On position…
zwaver, just to update you on the latest on my issue with the unusual activation of the ZFM-80. I had to use option 1 of your suggestion and I have excluded the device and then included it back again. When I woke up I found the garage closed which was a relief. Later I had to go somewhere and I used the garage remote to get the car out and then closed the garage using the same remote. when I came back the garage was open. Doing some tests, I found that when I use the garage remote to open then close the garage, after one minute the garage opens by itself. Is this minute related somehow to the three settings? any ideas on what can be the issue here?
Thanks
The one minute delay sounds likely to be related to the failsafe, but how would that be triggered if you are not activating the ZFM-80?
You could test if it is the failsafe by disabling the failsafe, at least temporarily, with this default configuration option
Set Parameter(variable) 2 value to 0
Using the ZFM-80(or any relay) to activate a garage door opener is pretty simple, but there are a lot of ways that it can be misconfigured. It may help to know what type of garage door opener you are using. Also confirming the way that the ZFM-80 is wired would be good.
Do you have any scenes in play that are triggered by the door sensor or the ZFM-80?
I have finally resolved the issue with the activation issue of my Garage door. I have called the vendor aqnd explained to him the issue and he suggested to reprogram my remotes as he beleived that someone from my neighbors had a similar frequency which could have triggered my garage door. since he did that, I have never had an issue with my garage being open by itself. I have also put back the failsafe as per the suggestion.
I have purchased the Aeotec Key Fob and was able to configure it and program it to the Garage Scene. Just an advice, dont waist your time reading the manual. the only thing you need to know from the manual is how to add it to your vera, but how to add the scenes, just follow this link http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php/topic,12067.msg87946.html#msg87946. I have folowed what Theo have suggested and he also posted pictures for help.
Malik
Glad I ran across this thread as I had been thinking about how I could use this Z-Wave unit in conjunction with my doorbell and its transformer circuit to interface a doorbell sensor into my Z-Wave network. I think This device might be just what Ive been looking for.
Anyone by chance know what the voltage and current handling of the external switch input on this device is? The way my doorbell circuit is setup the Normally Open doorbell switch completes the circuit connecting the AC secondary power of a transformer which powers the doorbell chime’s solenoids to make them ring. Like the two bell setup shown here: LINK
I would just need to make sure the external switch input could handle that amount of current and voltage.
@benr - According to the ZFM-80 manual:
[b][b]Warning[/b][/b] The resistive household appliance connected into the Z-Wave controlled outlet on this module must not exceed 230Vac 10A or 120Vac 15A.Most modern U.S. door bells are 24V AC, so the ZFM-80 should be fine. But, this seems a somewhat expensive and less effective doorbell option.
Sometime ago, I saw someone(I think it was @RichardTSchaefer, but I can’t find the post. (Found it.)) suggest placing a Z-Wave door/window sensor close to a regular doorbell chime. The theory was that the electromagnet of the chime would also activate the reed switch in the door/window sensor. Though I never tried it, I would fully expect this to work perfectly! It would immediately Z-Wave enable most “built-in” doorbells without any alteration of the wiring. Something like the Schlage RS100HC Door/Window Sensor would be cheaper and easier for a door bell than the ZFM-80.
Even if the electromagnet didn’t work, which I fully expect that it would, you could still wire a door/window sensor into an existing doorbell like this guy did.
[quote=“Z-Waver, post:74, topic:175041”]@benr - According to the ZFM-80 manual:
[b][b]Warning[/b][/b] [b]The resistive household appliance connected into the Z-Wave controlled outlet on this module must not exceed 230Vac 10A or 120Vac 15A.[/b]Most modern U.S. door bells are 24V AC, so the ZFM-80 should be fine. But, this seems a somewhat expensive and less effective doorbell option.
Sometime ago, I saw someone(I think it was @RichardTSchaefer, but I can’t find the post. (Found it.)) suggest placing a Z-Wave door/window sensor close to a regular doorbell chime. The theory was that the electromagnet of the chime would also activate the reed switch in the door/window sensor. Though I never tried it, I would fully expect this to work perfectly! It would immediately Z-Wave enable most “built-in” doorbells without any alteration of the wiring. Something like the Schlage RS100HC Door/Window Sensor would be cheaper and easier for a door bell than the ZFM-80.
Even if the electromagnet didn’t work, which I fully expect that it would, you could still wire a door/window sensor into an existing doorbell like this guy did.[/quote]
That spec in bold is for the controlled terminals of the switch, but I was thinking of wiring in the doorbell switch into the external switch terminals on the ZFM-80 and thats why I was wondering if anyone knew the specs on that input as the manual doesnt say anything about it other than its just looking for a contact closure and its normally open.
I do have a Schlage RS100HC that I bought for this application already and the idea of putting it next to the chimes solenoid is something to try. But then is the concept there that the magnet that the RS100HC comes with would be next to the RS100HC so that it showed up as unarmed until someone presses the doorbell and then hopefully the solenoids magnet is strong enough to pull the reed relay the other way breaking the connection? Or is it that the RS100HC would sit next to the chime tripped and then when someone presses the doorbell button it would untrip it?
I had found the link that you posted about how that one guy did it, but I didnt see that a setup like that would allow me to keep and use the existing chime and just add the doorbell press input into the Z-Wave system for me to configure whatever I wanted. Unless I didnt read into that one enough…
That’s how I would do it. It would be easy enough to make a scene that does whatever you want based on this tripped to untripped behavior.
I had found the link that you posted about how that one guy did it, but I didnt see that a setup like that would allow me to keep and use the existing chime and just add the doorbell press input into the Z-Wave system for me to configure whatever I wanted. Unless I didn't read into that one enough...Re-read it. It even contains a link back to our very own [url=http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php/topic,16050.0.html]@RexBeckett's post[/url], which I had not seen. That [url=http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php/topic,16050.0.html]post contains wiring diagrams as well as pictures[/url]. With this setup(not my choice) you would wire the relay in parallel with the chime solenoid. The other side of the relay becomes a dry contact closure for the door/window sensor.
[quote=“Z-Waver, post:39, topic:175041”]@beatmstrj - The Remotec switch must have AC power in order to function.
The instructions that I provided in that thread were for a specific installation request. The way that I would recommend you install is to leave the existing switches and bell wires in place. Then install the AC powered Remotec with it’s own bell wires directly to the garage door opener.
I prefer this method because it does not alter the existing behavior/functionality and it is often problematic to get AC mains power at the location of the existing bell wire button.[/quote]
Is this outputting 120v? If so is that to much power for the bell wires (my garage door opener states low voltage input something like 5-30v).
The ZMF-80 outputs nothing itself. It is a dry contact switch. That means simply closes the circuit for the garage door opener. Naturally the opener must run some electricity through the circuit, but it is low voltage and I think it is DC in most cases(don’t know never checked).
Your garage door opener bell wires should NEVER have 120VAC on them.
[quote=“Z-Waver, post:78, topic:175041”]The ZMF-80 outputs nothing itself. It is a dry contact switch. That means simply closes the circuit for the garage door opener. Naturally the opener must run some electricity through the circuit, but it is low voltage and I think it is DC in most cases(don’t know never checked).
Your garage door opener bell wires should NEVER have 120VAC on them.[/quote]
Thanks for the quick response… i had a bit of brain lapse last night thinking it outputted from the relay… then i realized that the relay is just acting like a switch connecting the two bell wires when on. I got it hooked up successfully last night. no i just have to work on the scene or garage door app.
I am having a little trouble programming the Remotec as a garage door opener. I have set up a scene that immediately turns off the ZFM-80, triggered by the Remotec being turned on. When i click “On” in the Vera web interface, the transmit happens, then you see the “Off” light up, then it goes back to On and then back to Off, maybe one more time. Nothing happens with the garage door.
If I manually push the button on the ZFM-80 switch and hold it momentarily, the garage door opens, so believe that it is wired correctly. I do not have an external switch, so set variable 1 to 0, variable 2 to 1, variable 3 to 1 and variable 4 to 0
Any ideas?