New Danfoss Living Connect Z - Code 014G0012 - Firmware 2.50 (Oct 2012)

I would like BOTH options, and I think it is possible.
if we could toggle the DAY/NIGHT mode, instead of set target (set temperature), I think the LC would heat up the room very fast. If I understand the working of the LC correctly, then after a few times DAY/NIGHT changes, it would know how long the heat up time is. and because we call for heat now, it will heat emideatly, like when You press the middle button on the LC. the danfoss control unit allso offers the option ALL ON / ALL OFF. I have played whith that, and seems to work instantly (node have to wake up of cause)
Allan

Interesting thought Allan. How would you toggle the Day/Night option with Vera?

I have absolutely no idea ! ???
I don’t know anything about programming, but it must be possible
Allan

I think to make use of the other functionality, you would need to know the Z-Wave Command Classes to do it.

To give you an example of what i mean I saw this for the Everspring SP814 - http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php/topic,6669.msg106345.html#msg106345

I recall seeing something published for the LC, but that’s not to say this can be set via the z-wave protocol, I’ll have a look.

Did any of you ever take a closer look at the options which are available when the device is added in a scenes “advancec tab”? What are the mode options? Running on 1.5.622.

in the manual it says:

  1. Temperature control and adjustment
    The temperature is usually controlled via Danfoss Link
    but may be changed at any time using the thermostat’s buttons.
    If this is done, the thermostat sends a message to Danfoss Link
    instructing it to synchronise the other thermostats in the room.

so now the question. I have red that you can’t read out the temperature with the vera.
But is you change manualy the temperature is synchronizes ! So it tells the other thermostate cranes to which temp they should go.
So i think somehow the temperature is been send.

[quote=“muurman, post:106, topic:173081”]in the manual it says:

the thermostat sends a message to Danfoss Link
instructing it to synchronise the other thermostats in the room.[/quote]
Nowbody knows how to use this message ?

It’s the new set point that gets sent, not the actual temperature.

It’s been a while since this topic was really active, but since I read through it, I might as well respond with my own findings.
I’ve just installed two newly bought LC’s.

First, I think there has been some confusion on version numbers.
Mine are 014G0012 and sw 2.51 (says so inside the battery lid). Vera also says: 6,2,67,2,51. BUT on advanced page it says under Manufactererinfo: 2,5,3. I’m not sure what this means, but I don’t think there is a real version 2,5,3, or if there is, it’s the same as 2.51.

I haven’t come so far as to really test them, it’s just too warm outside to know if it’s doing anything. I’ll report findings of delays as soon as I have any.

There is an interesting note in the manual: “The first 1-7 days after intallation the intelligent living connect Z is in a learning period where it will optimize the heat control in the room.”
This means that any test results directly after installing are not only not representative, but they might also influence how it will later work. I find this very strange, especially since atm it’s the middle of the summer, so how is it going to “learn” …

Lastly, for newbies like me, here some personal findings:

  • the LC won’t begin to communicate with Vera in “M” mode. So make sure you install it.
  • I don’t think you can include and connect to Vera and then install it on the radiator, because I think you have to “reinstall” the LC’s to make it tighten on the valve. Any thoughts on how to manage this are appreciated though
  • I had major problems installing in Vera Lite battery mode, because I couldn’t finish configuring. Finally I just used an internet connection near the installed LC to include.
  • I don’t think you can include and connect to Vera and then install it on the radiator, because I think you have to “reinstall” the LC’s to make it tighten on the valve. Any thoughts on how to manage this are appreciated though

Yes you can. Holding the “.” buttton will enter in installation mode. With some kind of “M” on the screen…
On this state, the Valvle is fully retracted so can be installed of removed from the heater. It will not change anything to Zwave status.

Hope it helps

Has anybody had problems with it waiting for wakeup forever ? I have installed mine about 6 to 7 hours ago, it included fine into Vera, but the device is still on waiting for wakeup to configure device. I have seen nothing in the manual about waking it up, i changed the setpoint manually to see if that wakes it up but nothing. I also had the alarm symbol and the aerial symbol flasing when i changed the setpoint on the thermostat, couldnt find anything in the manual to see if that is normal either…

@mikee123

Just a thought, are the thermostats in the same location where you included/added them to Vera? It’s possible that they are too far away now and Vera does not have a good route.?

I seem to recall when you press the select button on the TRVs that is when they wake up, so if it is not hearing, it’s possibly the route needs updating or strengthening (by adding a powered node on route).

I have included it where it is (took the Vera there and powered it up on battery). I have lots of other devices nearby, so communication should not be a problem. I might exclude and include it from the network. I found a installer manual online, in that i found that the flashing aerial symbol and the alarm bell emans its not communicating properly, so might just hint it needs a fresh install.

I finally could only install the LC’s correctly with the Vera on net power and LAN. Might have been a coincidence, but all attempts on battery power failed.

I managed to get it to work properly, i had to press configure node, then press the select button (the one with the dot) a few times and all of a sudden it pulled in all the information, and everything is working fine now. Well, it looks fine, wont know for sure until the weather turns cold and i will turn on the heating.
I am a little worried about the 7 day learning, as my heating is switched off.

[quote=“mikee123, post:115, topic:173081”]I managed to get it to work properly, i had to press configure node, then press the select button (the one with the dot) a few times and all of a sudden it pulled in all the information, and everything is working fine now. Well, it looks fine, wont know for sure until the weather turns cold and i will turn on the heating.
I am a little worried about the 7 day learning, as my heating is switched off.[/quote]

Great tip. Worked for me to get info from the TRV, But am unable to show the temperature like in attachment picture. I have tried your method a few times.

I got rid of my LC’s and swapped them for StellaZ’s. The LC’s have a problem going into panic mode, and loosing all connections unless you downgrade your zwave, which i never did. Someone tried that on here and posted it, but by then i had enough and swapped them. Thats something to keep in mind, if your start flashing and going into panic mode, do some research on here how to downgrade your zwave.
As to the missing temperature, as far as i remember the LC’s do not report temperature. The StellaZ’s do, but not the LC.

To follow on from @mike123

I reverted to the 2.78 z-wave and no longer see the panic mode (flashing bell and antenna) and while the LC does not report the temperature, i have a secondary temp sensor in the room and use the guidance in the MCV wiki (http://wiki.micasaverde.com/index.php/Danfoss_Thermostat_LC) to give the impression that the LC is reporting the temp.

Also how any temp sensor that’s so close to a heat source could be considered accurate is a difficult one to sign up to, so for me, and just like any TRV - there is a lack of accuracy you have to accept.

On the plus side using a secondary sensor allows you to see the temperature in the area of the room you want heated. So rather than taking readings next to the radiator and e.g under a window - I place my sensors in the place I want to feel the heat most, so this may mean turning the LC to 21c to achieve 18c in the ‘sweet spot’ in the room…

Hope that helps.

* Having invested in the RFXtrx433 device and Vera plugin, I’m able to use add really good temp sensors in most rooms for 15-20 GBP

[quote=“parkerc, post:118, topic:173081”]Also how any temp sensor that’s so close to a heat source could be considered accurate is a difficult one to sign up to, so for me, and just like any TRV - there is a lack of accuracy you have to accept.

On the plus side using a secondary sensor allows you to see the temperature in the area of the room you want heated. So rather than taking readings next to the radiator and e.g under a window - I place my sensors in the place I want to feel the heat most, so this may mean turning the LC to 21c to achieve 18c in the ‘sweet spot’ in the room…[/quote]

I have the same experience with the temperature sensores in the StellaZ’s. When the heating is off they are accurate, but turn the rads on and they show too high readings (as you would expect from being that close to the rad). So i only find that useful to see temperatures when the heating is off, and i can tell if the rad is on as the readings are very high.
I did not know you could add another temperature sensor and display in the thermostat device, that is pretty cool, and far more useful to have another sensor away from the rad. I use Oregon temperature sensors to check the actual temperature in my rooms, they are not zwave but inexpensive and via the Rfxtrx you can read them and include in your logic.

Hi

Thanks for replies guys.

Glad its not something am doing wrong.

Think will just use other sensors to report the temp in the rooms.