GE 12729 not reliable

Other Devices & Integrations Lighting & Load Control
1

Hi all,

I wondered if anyone had some tips/tricks.

I’ve got one GE 12729 switch in my network and it consistently has problems with Vera3 UI7. the problems are “cannot contact device” or getting stuck at “getting manufacturer info”. It fails stress tests, is unreliable, etc. One time I opened the variables page and found that an IP address had been assigned in the ip address field?

The switch is near many intermatic circa 2008 switches and dimmers that work perfectly. It’s in a plastic box, so it’s not shielded.

Also, I purchased, some time ago, a GE outdoor Zwave switch and it was the only switch I’ve ever owned that actually completely died… it wouldn’t do a thing… all within a week.

There seems to be something particular about the GE switch. Does anyone have any experience or tips or suggestions?

Maybe I should just give up on GE switches :slight_smile:

thanks,

2

[quote=“mikoz, post:1, topic:190563”]Hi all,

I wondered if anyone had some tips/tricks.

I’ve got one GE 12729 switch in my network and it consistently has problems with Vera3 UI7. the problems are “cannot contact device” or getting stuck at “getting manufacturer info”. It fails stress tests, is unreliable, etc. One time I opened the variables page and found that an IP address had been assigned in the ip address field?

The switch is near many intermatic circa 2008 switches and dimmers that work perfectly. It’s in a plastic box, so it’s not shielded.

Also, I purchased, some time ago, a GE outdoor Zwave switch and it was the only switch I’ve ever owned that actually completely died… it wouldn’t do a thing… all within a week.

There seems to be something particular about the GE switch. Does anyone have any experience or tips or suggestions?

Maybe I should just give up on GE switches :slight_smile:

thanks,[/quote]

I probley have over 60 GE switches I have bought from lowes. I have returned one due to the BLUE led not working but not one switch has failed me in 3 years. I also have the outdoor modual which only gets used around Christmas time and like this year it rained and it’s always worked good also.

I had an issue with a switch once it was what I believe to be a routing issue. This was on a switch that was far from the controller but not the furthest and usually it was in a room that had more then one switch and the other worked fine. I just removed it an added it again and never had a problem with that switch again.

3

[quote=“integlikewhoa, post:2, topic:190563”][quote=“mikoz, post:1, topic:190563”]Hi all,

I wondered if anyone had some tips/tricks.

I’ve got one GE 12729 switch in my network and it consistently has problems with Vera3 UI7. the problems are “cannot contact device” or getting stuck at “getting manufacturer info”. It fails stress tests, is unreliable, etc. One time I opened the variables page and found that an IP address had been assigned in the ip address field?

The switch is near many intermatic circa 2008 switches and dimmers that work perfectly. It’s in a plastic box, so it’s not shielded.

Also, I purchased, some time ago, a GE outdoor Zwave switch and it was the only switch I’ve ever owned that actually completely died… it wouldn’t do a thing… all within a week.

There seems to be something particular about the GE switch. Does anyone have any experience or tips or suggestions?

Maybe I should just give up on GE switches :slight_smile:

thanks,[/quote]

I probley have over 60 GE switches I have bought from lowes. I have returned one due to the BLUE led not working but not one switch has failed me in 3 years. I also have the outdoor modual which only gets used around Christmas time and like this year it rained and it’s always worked good also.

I had an issue with a switch once it was what I believe to be a routing issue. This was on a switch that was far from the controller but not the furthest and usually it was in a room that had more then one switch and the other worked fine. I just removed it an added it again and never had a problem with that switch again.[/quote]

Thanks for your feedback. I have re-paired a few times, it’s just plain unreliable.
Perhaps someone else has some experience with problems unique to the GE switches with Vera.

4

Sounds like you have a bad switch.
I have many GE switches and they have been reliable but even the most reliable brand can have failures from time to time.

I have about 20 switches installed over the past 10 years and only one switch ever failed on me.
It didn’t completely fail to work but it became unreliable after working fine for at least a year. The controller often failed to send commands to it and at one point it failed to operate manually until I re-set it by killing power to it at the circuit breaker.
I replaced it and haven’t had a problem since.

5

Hi

I installed a new switch. Same exact problem.

Actually it was the second one I tried to install. The first one had an issue where it turned on when I inserted the faceplate screw. Just inserting the screw I to the faceplate caused it to turn on.

Sorry, these are just junk.
I guess I now have to switch to a rocker style switch which I didn’t want to do.

6

[quote=“mikoz, post:5, topic:190563”]I installed a new switch. Same exact problem.

Actually it was the second one I tried to install. The first one had an issue where it turned on when I inserted the faceplate screw. Just inserting the screw I to the faceplate caused it to turn on.

Sorry, these are just junk.
I guess I now have to switch to a rocker style switch which I didn’t want to do.[/quote]

I have numerous of these GE switches and have never had one fail. Like any Z-Wave device they need a good route to Vera.

If you want to talk junk, then the Intermatics are where to look. I ripped every single Intermatic out of my network, and things got much more stable.

7

[quote=“wilme2, post:6, topic:190563”]If you want to talk junk, then the Intermatics are where to look. I ripped every single Intermatic out of my network, and things got much more stable.[/quote]+1
To be fair, the Intermatics I had were from 2006/2007. I have one left that still works but I did have nothing but problems with the 2 or 3 others I had.

8

[quote=“Hutchca, post:7, topic:190563”][quote=“wilme2, post:6, topic:190563”]If you want to talk junk, then the Intermatics are where to look. I ripped every single Intermatic out of my network, and things got much more stable.[/quote]+1
To be fair, the Intermatics I had were from 2006/2007. I have one left that still works but I did have nothing but problems with the 2 or 3 others I had.[/quote]

Maybe it’s a bad batch or specific to this model. Let me defend why I feel this model is not good:

  1. One unit turned on when I inserted the faceplate screw
  2. The unit won’t accept a normal length faceplate screw. You have to trim the screw length. That’s not good. This may be related to number 1
  3. Three units will not work with Vera reliably. I get cannot contact device or getting Manufacturer. A Leviton in its place works fine
  4. The ramp up doesn’t work when I program register 8. Ramp down does work. Tried this on two units, both do the same.
9

[quote=“mikoz, post:8, topic:190563”][quote=“Hutchca, post:7, topic:190563”][quote=“wilme2, post:6, topic:190563”]If you want to talk junk, then the Intermatics are where to look. I ripped every single Intermatic out of my network, and things got much more stable.[/quote]+1
To be fair, the Intermatics I had were from 2006/2007. I have one left that still works but I did have nothing but problems with the 2 or 3 others I had.[/quote]

Maybe it’s a bad batch or specific to this model. Let me defend why I feel this model is not good:

  1. One unit turned on when I inserted the faceplate screw
  2. The unit won’t accept a normal length faceplate screw. You have to trim the screw length. That’s not good. This may be related to number 1
  3. Three units will not work with Vera reliably. I get cannot contact device or getting Manufacturer. A Leviton in its place works fine
  4. The ramp up doesn’t work when I program register 8. Ramp down does work. Tried this on two units, both do the same.[/quote]

Where are you buying these?
The ramping does it do the same with the switch as with the vera control?

10

[quote=“integlikewhoa, post:9, topic:190563”][quote=“mikoz, post:8, topic:190563”][quote=“Hutchca, post:7, topic:190563”][quote=“wilme2, post:6, topic:190563”]If you want to talk junk, then the Intermatics are where to look. I ripped every single Intermatic out of my network, and things got much more stable.[/quote]+1
To be fair, the Intermatics I had were from 2006/2007. I have one left that still works but I did have nothing but problems with the 2 or 3 others I had.[/quote]

Maybe it’s a bad batch or specific to this model. Let me defend why I feel this model is not good:

  1. One unit turned on when I inserted the faceplate screw
  2. The unit won’t accept a normal length faceplate screw. You have to trim the screw length. That’s not good. This may be related to number 1
  3. Three units will not work with Vera reliably. I get cannot contact device or getting Manufacturer. A Leviton in its place works fine
  4. The ramp up doesn’t work when I program register 8. Ramp down does work. Tried this on two units, both do the same.[/quote]

Where are you buying these?
The ramping does it do the same with the switch as with the vera control?[/quote]

Pep boys, there’s a display for ge zwave products between the oil and antifreeze. Just kidding, I got them through Amazon and eBay to increase the likelihood of different batches.

I’m not impressed, even the inability to accept a full length face plate screw is kinda crappy in my opinion.

I’ve had intermatics running non stop since 2008 without an issue, heck,they even work with LED bulbs. I’ve had a ge outdoor switch die in a week and I’m 0 for 4 with the 12729.

Call me crazy, but that’s a trend. :slight_smile:

11

Something is wrong. Not implying on your end, but this forum is very heavy on GEs due to the price, and other than supporting Instant Status, satisfied customers.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

12

[quote=“wilme2, post:11, topic:190563”]Something is wrong. Not implying on your end, but this forum is very heavy on GEs due to the price, and other than supporting Instant Status, satisfied customers.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk[/quote]

I understand. Either it’s…

1: people don’t have experience with the 12729 and I got unlucky with the outside switch which a different model
Or
2: I’m incredibly unlucky all-around and even the design flaws I found are simply ignored by others

13

[quote=“mikoz, post:12, topic:190563”][quote=“wilme2, post:11, topic:190563”]Something is wrong. Not implying on your end, but this forum is very heavy on GEs due to the price, and other than supporting Instant Status, satisfied customers.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk[/quote]

I understand. Either it’s…

1: people don’t have experience with the 12729 and I got unlucky with the outside switch which a different model
Or
2: I’m incredibly unlucky all-around and even the design flaws I found are simply ignored by others[/quote]

Personally i always wondered what kind of person would by a high tech switch in 2016 that looks like a the toggle switch that came out in 1917 right after the pusb button switches.

I will not be buying any of these just do to looks alone.

14

[quote=“integlikewhoa, post:13, topic:190563”][quote=“mikoz, post:12, topic:190563”][quote=“wilme2, post:11, topic:190563”]Something is wrong. Not implying on your end, but this forum is very heavy on GEs due to the price, and other than supporting Instant Status, satisfied customers.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk[/quote]

I understand. Either it’s…

1: people don’t have experience with the 12729 and I got unlucky with the outside switch which a different model
Or
2: I’m incredibly unlucky all-around and even the design flaws I found are simply ignored by others[/quote]

Personally i always wondered what kind of person would by a high tech switch in 2016 that looks like a the toggle switch that came out in 1917 right after the pusb button switches.

I will not be buying any of these just do to looks alone.[/quote]

The kind of person who has a wife who has invested in custom face plates that will not work with rocker switches…that’s who.

15

[quote=“mikoz, post:14, topic:190563”][quote=“integlikewhoa, post:13, topic:190563”][quote=“mikoz, post:12, topic:190563”][quote=“wilme2, post:11, topic:190563”]Something is wrong. Not implying on your end, but this forum is very heavy on GEs due to the price, and other than supporting Instant Status, satisfied customers.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk[/quote]

I understand. Either it’s…

1: people don’t have experience with the 12729 and I got unlucky with the outside switch which a different model
Or
2: I’m incredibly unlucky all-around and even the design flaws I found are simply ignored by others[/quote]

Personally i always wondered what kind of person would by a high tech switch in 2016 that looks like a the toggle switch that came out in 1917 right after the pusb button switches.

I will not be buying any of these just do to looks alone.[/quote]

The kind of person who has a wife who has invested in custom face plates that will not work with rocker switches…that’s who.[/quote]

Lol

Thats an easy fix, just dont tell her it was that said that. ;D

16

Hi all

I replaced gave up and replaced the switch with a Leviton.

Benefits:

  1. Responds to pings with 100 success rate even without an overnight healing
  2. Ramp up and down works. Ge has only an adjustable ramp down
  3. Neighbors show up.
  4. Faceplate screws can be inserted all the way through. The ge unit, if you use a screw over about 0.5 inches, it actually cause the unit to turn off when screwed in far enough !

I tried three ge units. It’s not a one off problem. Lesson learned: don’t buy ge with Vera.

17

[quote=“mikoz, post:16, topic:190563”]Hi all

I replaced gave up and replaced the switch with a Leviton.

Benefits:

  1. Responds to pings with 100 success rate even without an overnight healing
  2. Ramp up and down works. Ge has only an adjustable ramp down
  3. Neighbors show up.
  4. Faceplate screws can be inserted all the way through. The ge unit, if you use a screw over about 0.5 inches, it actually cause the unit to turn off when screwed in far enough !

I tried three ge units. It’s not a one off problem. Lesson learned: don’t buy ge with Vera.[/quote]

I didn’t know Levitron had a toggle z-wave switch. Which part number is that?

18

[quote=“integlikewhoa, post:17, topic:190563”][quote=“mikoz, post:16, topic:190563”]Hi all

I replaced gave up and replaced the switch with a Leviton.

Benefits:

  1. Responds to pings with 100 success rate even without an overnight healing
  2. Ramp up and down works. Ge has only an adjustable ramp down
  3. Neighbors show up.
  4. Faceplate screws can be inserted all the way through. The ge unit, if you use a screw over about 0.5 inches, it actually cause the unit to turn off when screwed in far enough !

I tried three ge units. It’s not a one off problem. Lesson learned: don’t buy ge with Vera.[/quote]

I didn’t know Levitron had a toggle z-wave switch. Which part number is that?[/quote]

Leviton VRMX1-1LZ

It’s a rocker style switch though. I had to give up on the faceplates and go with a rocker. :slight_smile:

19

[quote=“mikoz, post:18, topic:190563”]Leviton VRMX1-1LZ

It’s a rocker style switch though. I had to give up on the faceplates and go with a rocker. :)[/quote]

The problem is your comparing apple to oranges now.

[quote=“mikoz, post:16, topic:190563”]Hi all

I replaced gave up and replaced the switch with a Leviton.

Benefits:

  1. Responds to pings with 100 success rate even without an overnight healing
  2. Ramp up and down works. Ge has only an adjustable ramp down
  3. Neighbors show up.
  4. Faceplate screws can be inserted all the way through. The ge unit, if you use a screw over about 0.5 inches, it actually cause the unit to turn off when screwed in far enough !

I tried three ge units. It’s not a one off problem. Lesson learned: don’t buy ge with Vera.[/quote]

All your benefits above are the same on GE/JASCO switches too. I can honestly say that all 4 of your points are not true with both the GE dimmers (I have older 2 wires and some newer 3 wires, different part numbers and styles) I have and I think others would agree. I have probley 15 dimmers and ton more of the on/off. All Mine were bought at the local Lowes hardware store for less then 30.00. I have had to return one for the LED light on stop working. On GE’s the LED is programable.

You have tried one new switch (a rocker) that GE just released last and no one else makes (that I know of in z-wave) and now your bad mouthing GE when they are probley the most common or used switch on these forums. I just don’t want to leave others with false advertisement even if you have a problem with Jasco.

20

[quote=“integlikewhoa, post:19, topic:190563”][quote=“mikoz, post:18, topic:190563”]Leviton VRMX1-1LZ

It’s a rocker style switch though. I had to give up on the faceplates and go with a rocker. :)[/quote]

The problem is your comparing apple to oranges now.

[quote=“mikoz, post:16, topic:190563”]Hi all

I replaced gave up and replaced the switch with a Leviton.

Benefits:

  1. Responds to pings with 100 success rate even without an overnight healing
  2. Ramp up and down works. Ge has only an adjustable ramp down
  3. Neighbors show up.
  4. Faceplate screws can be inserted all the way through. The ge unit, if you use a screw over about 0.5 inches, it actually cause the unit to turn off when screwed in far enough !

I tried three ge units. It’s not a one off problem. Lesson learned: don’t buy ge with Vera.[/quote]

All your benefits above are the same on GE/JASCO switches too. I can honestly say that all 4 of your points are not true with both the GE dimmers (I have older 2 wires and some newer 3 wires, different part numbers and styles) I have and I think others would agree. I have probley 15 dimmers and ton more of the on/off. All Mine were bought at the local Lowes hardware store for less then 30.00. I have had to return one for the LED light on stop working. On GE’s the LED is programable.

You have tried one new switch (a rocker) that GE just released last and no one else makes (that I know of in z-wave) and now your bad mouthing GE when they are probley the most common or used switch on these forums. I just don’t want to leave others with false advertisement even if you have a problem with Jasco.[/quote]

Well, I’m not customer reports, I am just one guy… people can make their own decisions, and I doubt ge will stop making zwave switches based on my post here.

However the facts are pretty hard to refute with respect to this particular model when used with Vera. I tried a few of them and I gave it a fair shot. It simply didn’t work well, there’s no denying that. The Leviton worked immediately and had no issues. It’s not a fluke.

It’s not apples and oranges. They are both in wall zwave dimmer switches. The only difference is the cosmetic Appearance of the switch. The Leviton is a bit fancier, but it accomplishes the same goal. The ge had no LEDs, not sure why you say they are programmable.