Sorry, this is related to a post I had here from last September.
I am seriously thinking of using a Linear Zwave plus controller for my garage door at my winter residence in AZ as my garage door has been left open a couple of times by service people who need access to my garage. However my mechanical garage door opener is a Wayne Dalton opener probably installed when my house was built in 1995. I read that some garage door openers are incompatible with zwave controllers (on Amazon questions and answer for example regarding a Chamberlain opener).
How can I tell if my aged Wayne Dalton opener is compatible with a zwave controller (besides the obvious of purchasing one and seeing if it works)?
I’m not the original owner of the house and don’t have a manual. When I looked inside the cover of the Wayne Dalton garage door opener, I saw that the opener was manufactured in January 1994 and has the following model number: HBW0777. When I search online for that model number, I get it listed under Craftsman, Liftmaster and Chamberlain. Under the cover, it indicates that it was produced by Chamberlain. I could not find a downloadable manual for it online, though I have not looked exhaustively. I will continue to look for a manual, though I doubt that a manual would contain information of whether the device is zwave compatible or not.
Of course any help on any of this would be appreciated. Thanks.
I have included photos of the backside of the circuit board and then the case in front of the front of the circuit board with the wires that go into it (wall remote wires going into it). I couldn’t actually get a shot of the front of the circuit board itself without going to heroic efforts. There is a screw that is really hard to get to that is one of five that holds the circuit board to the case in front of it, that would then also need to be removed. I’m hesitant to do that but could certainly answer other questions about the connections, etc. And if needed, I will go to heroic efforts to get an actual shot of the circuit board. This unit is 26 years old, and may be more fragile than most.
that’s the motor unit, is there a wire remote switch and a control box.
Ther is nothing in the motor unit that t i can see that will help you, but there may be at switch or control box.
It looks like to me you have terminal 1 & 2 going to a push button? You should be able to connect your Linear Zwave plus controller to 1 & 2 and your good to go?
So what do you want to see on the remote button? Just take a photo of the wire(s) going into it? Or do I need to take it apart and take photos? Sorry, I am pretty dense about this stuff.
Here’s a photo of the remote. The wire going into it has two wires in it, and is attached to the ceiling. This is a replacement wire as the pack rats in the attic above the garage (now gone) had chewed through the original wires that attached to the remote.
It is hard to say & the best and safe way is to Call In an Electrician. But normally #1 & #2 screw shown in the picture should be for a single push button, which is what the Linear will act as. Along with the Tilt sensor to notify Open or Closed Status. Its low voltage & that is why you don’t have Dead Rats
I am an electrician, if that is a push button with no electronics in it, then you could put any z-wave, zigbee, or wifi relay in parrallel with the switch and as Roger says a tilt switch on garage, the relay will have to have inching capabilites. If you don’t trust your self then call in a local electrician.
The wiring goes from the wall remote into terminals 1 and 2 (see photo above) of the motor unit. I talked to my brother last night. He thinks that it is just a low voltage switch which changes the status of the garage door, and that this is compatible with the aforementioned Go Control/Linear Zwave plus garage door controller along with a tilt sensor. He thinks that shorting across those terminals (which is what the wall remote does?) would change the status of the garage door (open or close it). I believe that the wall remote is powered through that connection. The motorized unit is plugged into a 120 volt outlet on the ceiling. I believe I am good to go on this unless you guys have further questions or advice. I think I can order the device install and include it. I greatly appreciate your help.
just to add you could do it withh a z-wave relay and a door sensor which may be cheaper, but intail more input from yourself.
this unit could could be put in motor unit and the original switch could be connected to the external switch contacts. That way you would know if some one hit the switch.
I installed the linear garage door opener that I purchased from Vera itself, and it seems to be working fine, recognizing when the garage door is open whether it has been opened through zwave or any other way (wall remote, mirror remote in car, etc.). I can also open and close the door via zwave. I now have notifications sent to me when it is open. I eventually will have it close when it has been opened more than an hour when we are in away mode, but that may require me to go back to reactor and learn it all over again. I saw another post related to that. Thanks especially to EICid and Rodger3878 for their help.
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