Cooper Aspire RF Master/Accessory Association

Other Devices & Integrations Lighting & Load Control
#1

I’ve been reading through the forums, but can’t find an answer.

I just installed a Cooper Aspire RF On/Off Switch and an RF Accessory Switch. I associated them in Vera, by going to the Accessory Switch and adding a Group with ID 1 and then checking off the master on/off switch which controls the load. Now a press on the remote switch successfully turns the load on/off, but if I control the master switch via Vera, the status light on the accessory switch doesn’t change, I have the press the button twice to have it turn the load off/on.

I thought maybe I needed a two-way association one from the accessory switch to the master and vice versa, but that didn’t help. Is this possible? Am I doing something wrong?

Thanks.

G

#2

Hi G,

I had the same setup at my home and ran into the exact same issue! Created the group ID ‘1’ in the remote Accessory switch and then set it to the master switch. That worked as yours did - almost great. If i used the remote all was well but if I used the master switch the remote would get out of sync and a double press was needed.

Just today I got the bug to look at this again and try to figure a 100% solution. The result today was I got complete sync between the units. So to answer one of your question, YES it is possible and it’s made me very happy! What I had to do was the following and there maybe a few extra steps because I wanted to make sure I wasn’t messing myself up.

  1. Removed all associations between remote and master. (Delete Group ID and save each time)
  2. Went into each unit’s control panel and advanced tab and found “AssociationGet” value and removed (made blank) - for some reason this isn’t removed when deleting group ID
  3. Repaired complete z-wave network to ensure everything was good in terms of network connections and all
  4. Entered remote switch panel and created group ID ‘1’ again and set to master switch. Saved
  5. Re-entered remote switch panel and went to setting tab. pressed “Configure node right now”. Waited until all done and saved again!
  6. Repaired complete z-wave network again (really may not have been needed!)
  7. Entered master switch and created group ID ‘1’ again here! Set it to the remote control switch. saved
  8. Re-entered master switch panel and went to setting tab. pressed “Configure node right now”. Waited until all done and saved again!
  9. Yet again repaired the z-wave network.

When i tested the switches now they work 100% in sync. The master and remote switches both have group ID ‘1’ and have set and get values pointing to each others unit ID’s (advanced tab). I hope that makes sense and works for you.

Cheers

#3

I am having the same issue when I turn on not off the lights from the vera the accessory does not update the status. I have tried the steps above and it still does not work

#4

I have the Cooper Aspire RF Dimmer and have been having the same issue since install, decided to try the two-way association and to my surprise, IT WORKED!!! So seems like it is hit or miss with this one.

[quote=“gbdesai, post:1, topic:174307”]I’ve been reading through the forums, but can’t find an answer.

I just installed a Cooper Aspire RF On/Off Switch and an RF Accessory Switch. I associated them in Vera, by going to the Accessory Switch and adding a Group with ID 1 and then checking off the master on/off switch which controls the load. Now a press on the remote switch successfully turns the load on/off, but if I control the master switch via Vera, the status light on the accessory switch doesn’t change, I have the press the button twice to have it turn the load off/on.

I thought maybe I needed a two-way association one from the accessory switch to the master and vice versa, but that didn’t help. Is this possible? Am I doing something wrong?

Thanks.

G[/quote]

#5

Hi All! (new to this forum, but have been reading and learning a lot! thanks!) ;D

FYI, I just installed by Aspire RF master and 2 accessories to dim my LEDs, and it works great.

I had some of the problems that some mentioned above, but my problem was that the master had to be grouped with the accessory dimmers, and vice versa. Just make sure switch #1 is grouped and set with switches #2 and #3; switch #2 is set with switches #1 and #3; and switch #3 is set with #1 and #2. Make sure push the “Set” button after you create Group 1, and make sure to check the other devices in the group.

In my case I had to “Del” the group in each device and start over. I also saved after setting each switch.

Hope this helps!

The switches work awesome and look great, but are expensive!

#6

@elaicool,

Welcome!

If you control the master from Vera, do the accessories update?

#7

Yes they do… immediately! It didn’t work at first (like others said above), until I set all the switches to each other in the vera.

#8

Interesting.

The problem statement in the previous posts is a bit unclear; hence, perhaps, the varying responses. I think there are two topics:

  1. Getting the remotes and primary switch to stay in sync when controlled locally from any of the switches.
  2. Getting the remotes and primary switch to stay in sync when controlled through Vera.

In general, what switches do in case 2) can vary: not all of them send an update when controlled remotely.

#9

Hi Everyone -
I’m sorry if I’m derailing this topic a bit. However, I’m strongly considering the Cooper Aspire devices (specifically the RF9540-N) due to its ability to dim LEDs successfully - according to many on these forums.

I’m curious as to what Cooper products you’re specifically using while experiencing this problem? My guess is your “slave” is the RF9542-Z?

This is great if you don’t have the proper 3-way wiring already in place but adds complexities such as the ones you’re all experiencing above. Is there a better (read: cheaper/simpler) solution for those that already have 3-way wiring in place? I’m thinking something like the RF9542 (non “Z” model), etc.

If not, I’m afraid I will be back on this thread shortly - trying to figure out how to get the slave switch to follow the master.

Thanks everyone.

#10

OTI - in response to your problem statements

  1. if you set all of your master and slave controls to each other, they always instantaneously stay in sync (at least for me). I had not done that correctly at first, so they would not stay in sync. Now, everything always is in sync - dimming and the on/off indicators.

  2. not sure that #2 is an issue (nor have I tried it, but can later if you guys are curious). I would think you only need to control the master from the Vera - which then sends a signal to update the slaves. Why would you want/need to control the slave from your computer or your iphone? Just control the master, and “unpin” the slaves (since they both control the same light).

Tbully - for me, since I want to dim my LEDs, I’m using the Cooper RF9540-N (master) and the slaves are RF9542-Z. Works great. Looks great. High cost. I’ve read that there are cheaper solutions that work just as well, but I really liked the aesthetics of the Coopers

And, some random commentary from a newbie in case it helps anyone else…

Note that the Cooper slaves are really just wired remote controls. They do not utilize the 3 or 4-way switch wiring that your electrician put in your walls - you are basically throwing that wiring out, and just grabbing power from the wires. (I had to get over that hump - not sure why it bothers me so). The slaves use a zwave chip to communicate with the master, hence the high cost of the slave. I learned all this the hard way thinking I could just swap out the master for a zwave dimmer and leave the other 2 conventional slaves in place, but this does not work (and confirmed with Cooper). (thinking about it further… duh, obviously, the Cooper z wave master switch would not know what the other conventional non-zwave slaves are doing.)

#11

Well for what it is worth I have all sorts of problems with the cooper switches…

I have probably 50 of them between the ELV dimmers, and dimming accessories and the relay switches and accessory (all of mine require wireless accessory.) As well as several scene controllers.

Scene Controllers:
I am unable to update the status light remotely (if I execute a scene on my phone, the controller does not know it is executed and in turn the status light is not lit, therefore it will think a scene is not activated that is.)

The scene controller does not fire a trigger event to vera when a scene is de-activated (I want to run luup code… and can’t)

Dimmers (All of mine are the 600W ELV for LED’s):
Some of my switches will turn off their internal status led’s for no reason, and I will have to cut power to them to correct it… don’t know why…

Accessory Switches (All a wave based):
If I active a switch remotely the accessory switch loses awareness of the load, ie if I turn a light on via phone, the switch will be updated with the status of the load… the accessory switch will not (it will still think the light is off and have to be pressed twice to turn it off…)

Anyone else having these issues?

#12

I did end up buying a Cooper remote to look into this one day, but it’s not high on the list… The behavior you describe is what I had anticipated. It appears (Leviton, Cooper) devices do not update other devices (controllers/remotes) when their status changed due to a command from a 3rd party device (e.g. Vera). Presumably that’s why external LED control was added on Leviton devices. I’m not aware of such a feature for the Coopers. Hence my earlier questions.

#13

OK, hooked it up real quick. When controlled locally on master or remote, they and Vera stay in sync. When controlled through Vera, the remote loses sync. Not unexpected, and not sure there is a way around it.

#14

I’m seeing exactly the same behavior that you describe below in my Cooper devices. I have decided to swap out the scene controllers with Leviton ones instead. Hopefully that addresses those particular issues (Turning on the scene light when executed from a different controller or phone. And being able to run code during scene deactivation.).

Have you come up with any solutions for the other issues? I called Cooper support a couple weeks ago, only got voicemail. No one has returned my call.

The fact that some of the led lights stop working is very troubling. The only solution is it to a hard-reset of the switch.

The accessory getting out of sync is driving my family crazy. Any thoughts on that one?

[quote=“maverickmt, post:11, topic:174307”]Well for what it is worth I have all sorts of problems with the cooper switches…

I have probably 50 of them between the ELV dimmers, and dimming accessories and the relay switches and accessory (all of mine require wireless accessory.) As well as several scene controllers.

Scene Controllers:
I am unable to update the status light remotely (if I execute a scene on my phone, the controller does not know it is executed and in turn the status light is not lit, therefore it will think a scene is not activated that is.)

The scene controller does not fire a trigger event to vera when a scene is de-activated (I want to run luup code… and can’t)

Dimmers (All of mine are the 600W ELV for LED’s):
Some of my switches will turn off their internal status led’s for no reason, and I will have to cut power to them to correct it… don’t know why…

Accessory Switches (All a wave based):
If I active a switch remotely the accessory switch loses awareness of the load, ie if I turn a light on via phone, the switch will be updated with the status of the load… the accessory switch will not (it will still think the light is off and have to be pressed twice to turn it off…)

Anyone else having these issues?[/quote]

#15

I have about 50 or so Cooper switches, mostly dimmer. I have never seen the LEDs go out at all. Something is always lit. Now on the ON/OFF ones yes, when they’re off the LED is out.

I have the same “issue” with the LED on the accessory not staying in sync when the master is controlled through Vera (or my phone). It never mattered to me as I can see if the light is on or off normally. I just press the button without looking at the LEDs. But I can see it might be an issue for some.

When you say “scene controller” are you talking about the 5 button units that got in an electrical box, or Cooper’s stand alone units that looks like remotes with LCD screens?

#16

I’d recommend the 4-button zone controller (but 4-button and 2-button scene controller will work too; not the 1-button flavors); make sure it’s not the old -1LX version on the 4-button ones.

#17

Hi Katmai - I’m referring to the 5 button unit that installs in the wall (RFWC5):
http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/public/en/wiring_devices/products/lighting_controls/aspire_rf_wireless/aspire_rf_5_button_scene_control_keypad_rfwdc_rfwc5.solutions.wiringdevices!whole_home_solutions!aspire_rf_wireless.html

Do you have thoughts on what could be tried?

oTi - Thanks, yes, that’s exactly what I purchased, the 4 button zone controller - VRCZ4-M0Z. I have them in hand, but haven’t gotten a chance to get them installed yet. I’m hopeful they will meet my needs.

#18

Hi Katmai - I’m referring to the 5 button unit that installs in the wall (RFWC5):
http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/public/en/wiring_devices/products/lighting_controls/aspire_rf_wireless/aspire_rf_5_button_scene_control_keypad_rfwdc_rfwc5.solutions.wiringdevices!whole_home_solutions!aspire_rf_wireless.html

Do you have thoughts on what could be tried?

oTi - Thanks, yes, that’s exactly what I purchased, the 4 button zone controller - VRCZ4-M0Z. I have them in hand, but haven’t gotten a chance to get them installed yet. I’m hopeful they will meet my needs.[/quote]

No ideas. I think the Vera just doesn’t pass that info on to the switch, or the switch can’t see it. A lot of these devices seem to be originally designed to stay within their ecosystem.

#19

Nice! I’m hopeful as well. @Katmai responded to your Cooper scene controller question. I don’t have the scene controller, but do have the remote. In that light, @Katmai’s response is what I suspected. The Leviton’s use proprietary commands for both the scene/button communication to Vera (so you can trigger on ‘deactivate’), as well as for external LED control (so Vera can tell the controller a scene is active). It appears this is exactly what is missing from the Coopers.

Your VRCZ4 should stay in sync. For example, we have some at various entry doors; the bottom button controls Home/Away state for Vera. Turn it on/off on one controller, and the other controllers’ LEDs follow.

#20

A little late to this party, but I finally got a Vera and am now trying to “associate” 2 remotes to a master but confused on exactly what the procedures are, especially since there are several different ways that have been successful for different users.

Some have mentioned deleting all text in the “AssociationGet” field on the Advanced screen for all switches: what about the “AssociationSet” field (it appears to have the same text as AssociationGet)?

What is the exact steps to properly setting a Group ID? On the Device Settings screen, my master switch has the default settings of:

Group ID: 255 [Del]
Set to: 1 [Set]
Currently: [View]
Group ID: [Add group]

I followed the Quick Setup instructions that said to visit’s Verde’s website to download the “Complete Owner’s Manual online” but the only “downloadable” content is the same Quick Setup sheet that came bundled with my Vera3 (there are online “articles” but I couldn’t ascertain any topic to school me on the Advanced and Device Settings screens.

By the way, when I added my remote switches, Vera designates them as “Scene Controllers:” is this correct?