I’ve not looked at the neighbours list, but I can now communicate with devices that couldn’t even be seen before.
[quote=“parkerc, post:38, topic:172162”]Are there any improvements in the log file, do you see fewer NO ROUTE messages ?
I wonder what the range is now with this antenna, has it changed things to work more in a unicast mode rather than a multicast ?[/quote]
Not quite the right terminology I think - mulitcast means one to many where you really mean single versus multi hop routes. I do see some data being routed still (assuming my interpretation of vera data is correct!) But at least now I can see all my devices and most have 5* signal
Cheers
Chris[/quote]
I confirm everything Chris has stated. I didn’t take any photos before I closed it up.
[ol][li]There are regulations that state a maximum EIRP (basically, power) that you can transmit in the unlicensed bands that everyone uses (433MHz/868MHz/2.4GHz/etc) and in order to use them for anything you sell you need to keep the power below this level. Maybe Vera is transmitting at maximum power?[/li]
[li]Cost! And the ease of adding the z-wave module to the router, which I believe is basically what MCV do.[/li][/ol]
My bet is it’s #2 - especially if the Fibaro unit has an antenna (although EIRP is a combination of antenna gain and transmit power, so this isn’t a 100% guarantee without knowing the Fibaro power). If it’s #1, then the interesting point is that from a system perspective you need to balance receive and transmit performance (there’s no point in transmitting to the world if you can’t hear them come back!). So, a lower transmit power, and a better antenna would have been a better option (since antenna performance helps both receive and transmit).
Any clarification for parts required for US systems 908.42MHz? Each of the links above look like European so I am not sure if they would work on 908.42 MHz.
I concur with what has been stated. I have 2 locks that do not communicate consistently. One is about 15 ft away and the other only 4 ft (mostly below) that is for the very closet Vera is in. Having more switches in the vicinity does not work. I have 6 switches in the near vinity and a scene controller as well. Locks do not seem to like hops.
The cable isn’t frequency dependant and the antenna should be fine. Antennas have a reasonably wide bandwidth and in fact I suspect the antenna I’ve used is tuned for a centre frequency of 900Mhz anyway (based on the model number).
I opened my V-lite and detached the PCB antenna from the case. There was enough of a slack for me to mount the antenna vertically outside of the housing using the sticking backing.
Prior to doing this, I didn’t know where the antenna was mounted inside and I was trying to, by trial-and-error, get better communication to certain devices by rotating the cube different ways. No joy. With the PCB antenna outside and oriented vertically, I was able to eliminate all of the previous failed routes.
This is tying me over until I receive the longer cable and 900Mhz external antenna from Amazon.
When you get all the bits you need, would you be able to post some pictures of you VeraLite mod… Chris has shared his Vera 3 attempt, so it would be great to have images for both version in this thread.
When you get all the bits you need, would you be able to post some pictures of you VeraLite mod… Chris has shared his Vera 3 attempt, so it would be great to have images for both version in this thread.[/quote]
I wanted to find an antenna with a base so I can easily place it without having to modify or mount to the Vera housing. This is why I did not want a “rubber ducky” style without a base. I then discovered that most of the SMA antennas have a male connector and the cable is the female end (so call “RP-SMA” (reverse polarity)).
After identifying the antenna I want and seeing that it has a female connector, I had to find a cable with a male part. As you can see, it’s all about the s–e–x…
Won’t you still need to modify the case to fit the SMA? The U.FL connector is pretty fragile, so you need to be careful not to put any physical load on it… Or, are you planning on attaching it some other way?
I’m also using a mag mount antenna now - mainly for convenience of siting.
That is a valid concern. The two halves to Vera Lite, when screwed down, provides enough pressure on the cable to provide strain relief for now.
Once I get the cable and antenna, I am going to make a small base to mount the Vera and antenna using 3M Dual Lock. This way, they can be moved as a unit, and I can make no modifications to the case and restore to default whenever I want/need.
I am thinking of getting an external antenna as well on my vera 3 , I am just curious, since the vera 3 has 2 wireless features.
-the feature of communicating with Z-wave devices +/- 900 Mhz
-a build in wifi acces point 2.4Ghz
although I disabled the wifi-option, are both Z-wave and wifi routed through the same antenna? which doesn’t make sense to me… Are you guys sure you have modified the correct antenna?
No - there are 3 separate antennas - two for WiFi, and one for Z wave. And YES, it’s definitely the correct antenna!
The two S band (small) antennas are on each side of the unit in my photo. The 900MHz Z-Wave antenna is glued to the lid of the unit, and the Z-Wave add-on module is where the antenna connects to.
[quote=“big517, post:56, topic:172162”]@snovvman
Thanks for the pics and the link… looking forward to your results.[/quote]
Cheers. I came up with mine based on the information provided by those before me, like Chris, and others. I am still waiting for the parts to arrive, but I will post when I get things set up.
I have a large shop with 24 lights … each individually z-wave controlled.
One light in the shop is controlled by a Z-Wave wall switch.
Vera monitors this, treats it as a scene controller for the other 23 lights.
(Actually there is some smart logic to turn on/off a select patterns, based on my working habits, could be all)
Many of these lights are the farthest points in my mesh network.
Previously it would often take 5 to 10 seconds because of retries to get all lights on/off.
Since I upgraded to an external antenna it now is done in about 2-3 seconds.
Attached picture shows 3db vs 5.3 db antenna.
(The 3db antenna is just sitting there for reference.)
