z-wave wireless fan control

Community Playground General Discussions
1

I’m going to buy a new ceiling fan for my living room soon but figured I wouldn’t buy the remote control add on that goes with it cause I’d rather buy a z-wave fan module that I control via my iphone instead.

So, can you recommend any z-wave fan controllers?

I’m not in a position to start putting holes in the walls for extra wiring, otherwise I’d just install a second switch on the wall to control the fan.

Thanks.

2

As far as I know, the only fan specific z-wave option that can give you speed control is the Leviton VRF01-1LX ([url=http://www.asihome.com/ASIshop/product_info.php?products_id=3450]http://www.asihome.com/ASIshop/product_info.php?products_id=3450[/url]), but this doesn’t sounds like an ideal solution for you as it is only a fan control, not a combination fan/light control. I’m fortunate to have two gangs devoted to my fan (one for light, one for fan). I don’t believe there are any z-wave combo units on the market today, but I could be wrong.

How is your fan wired currently, is there just a single 120v wire running down to a on/off switch?

3

Check out the Leviton Fan controllers. They are expensive but work really well.

VRF01-1LX

4

I just bought one, I previously had the ceiling fan controlled by a z-wave switch which. I’ll try to find time this week end to install it and let you know.

5

fall-line is right, you should determine if you have 2-wire or 3-wire coming down from the fan (typically 14 guage, they do not count the ground here so it is (1) white and either a red and black (called 14-3)or just a black (called 14-2) ). In my previous life as an electrician, we would always run 14-3 from the fan to the swich, even if the fan didn’t have the light kit… just for future use. If you just have 14-2 (black, white, ground), then the VRF01-1LX will work for you. Chances are if you have an exisiting single gang switch box for the fan, then it will work for your application.

6

Whats it matter if he has 14-2 or 14-3 wiring? If he has 14-3 it just means the electrician pre-wired it for separate control of a fan+light instead of just a fan…?

I have 14-3 wiring on all of my ceiling fans and I use a leviton fan controller to control the fan and a leviton dimmer to control the light… works just fine.

Buy the Leviton VRF01-1LX, I have 3, they are expensive but work very well and are your only option in the zwave world to be able to control the speed of the fan remotely.

7

@B0SST0N, I think the reference was that if there’s 3-wire, instead of 2-wire wiring already in place, with a light but no Fan, that there’d be no reason to put holes in the walls for extra wiring… Just a Double Gang box to replace the existing Single Gang Light switch box.

@Kozanator’s original posting made reference to not wanting to put holes in walls for extra wiring… which I can understand :wink:

I'm not in a position to start putting holes in the walls for extra wiring, otherwise I'd just install a second switch on the wall to control the fan.

I was lucky, my house was pre-wired for Lighting & Fan (4 rooms capable), and had double gang boxes to accommodate the extra Leviton Fan switch (2 rooms installed)

8

Mine had no lights and I’ve just had all kinds of fun and games rewiring the old switched single gang wall sockets so that I now have ceiling fans and lights!

I hate pulling wires but sometimes is a necessary evil!

9

@guessed

oh ok, the “check your wiring” sounded like it was a reference to make sure it would work… just wanted to clarify it will work with 14-3 wiring as well

10

[quote=“B0SST0N, post:9, topic:166134”]@guessed

oh ok, the “check your wiring” sounded like it was a reference to make sure it would work… just wanted to clarify it will work with 14-3 wiring as well[/quote]

Thank you Guessed, exactly where I was going, he sounded like he was in a rental or somewhere where he couldn’t modify the house or that he was uncomfortable with a box swap. A box swap could be achieved in 10 minutes if we’re talking plastic boxes. Just kill power and pull out the device and undo all wire nuts. Hold up 2 gang box over existing hole and trace area to cut (good idea to explore with a long screwdriver to make sure there is room for a 2 gang between studs first). Cut/extend hole for new box, then pry single gang box away from stud with screwdriver. When you have enough room, and can see nails, cut them with dykes. Pull old box out, take new nailer box and remove nails and cut off excess plastic tabs. String same wires into similar holes in new box, then push box into wall. Then screw box into stud through side wall of box. Make-up wires and reinstall device(s). :wink: