Linear to bring LED light bulbs into the Z-Wave ecosystem. Take a look at this article; http://www.techhive.com/article/2846456/linear-to-bring-led-light-bulbs-into-the-z-wave-ecosystem.html
I’ve never been excited about the electronics(WiFi, Z-Wave) being in the bulb. I just don’t see the sense. Even a “forever” bulb will fail within a few years. I guarantee it. So, it makes more sense to me to put the “smarts” in the switch and just have a plain bulb.
But, regardless of how you feel, a $40 - $60 bulb is ludicrous. For that matter a $10 LED bulb is ludicrous.
True, however, I live in a house with almost no neutral wires in the light switches. These lightbulbs are going to be cheaper than me having to wire a neutral throughout the house. Current “no neutral required” switches don’t work with LED bulbs, so this would solve my problem.
I doubt a z-wave bulb would cost $40 to $60. Maybe is it was colored like Hue, but I would be more than willing to pay $10 for a bulb vs $40 for a switch/module.
I buy z-wave products with the knowledge that they are still changing and that home automation is a developing field. I don’t expect these bulbs to be a forever bulb, but the same applies to other z-wave products having a short life span.
[quote=“Z-Waver, post:2, topic:184093”]I’ve never been excited about the electronics(WiFi, Z-Wave) being in the bulb. I just don’t see the sense. Even a “forever” bulb will fail within a few years. I guarantee it. So, it makes more sense to me to put the “smarts” in the switch and just have a plain bulb.
But, regardless of how you feel, a $40 - $60 bulb is ludicrous. For that matter a $10 LED bulb is ludicrous.[/quote]
Agree 100%. Plus the ridiculous things about these bulbs (hues, tcp, etc) is that you need to carry around your smart phone to control them.
If one only has a neutral at the fixture, then simply get a z-wave micro switch (Aeon, etc), mount it there, and then you can still control the bulb from a wall switch.
Ok. I’m curious to see what costs more, a z wave bulb or a micro switch.
I have only leds bulbs in whole house build in 50s. I dont have all neutrals but I have everything on zwave. And in places I have can lights with 1 switch. Can you imagine 6 bulbs at 40to60 each vs. My 35.00 Jasco 2 wire dimming switch?
Other areas where I had no netural and only 1 bulb to control i used smart micro switches in the load or light bulb box vs. In the switch box.
Point is you dont have to rewire you house or buy 60.00 bulbs to complete your task. Explore your options!
I’ve heard that Jasco 2 wire switches don’t work with led bulbs. What brand of bulbs did you purchase?
I’m in Southern California I buy most of every all at my Local Lowes hardware. All my GE/Jasco products came from there using a 10.00 off 50.00 internet coupon and store pickup. So I get on/offs for around 30 and dimmers for 35.00. I also have the Jasco 3-way dimmer kit with LED lights in my family room. Regular 2 wire Jasco dimmers in living room and patio. So I have 3 rooms here with Jasco 2 wire and dimmers. At my fathers house we have several more but I can’t remember all the details on those. I pulled 1 bulb from 2 rooms right now and they were Greenlite BR30 and Cree.
All of my dimmers are in rooms that have 5 or more BR30 can lights on one switch and I think that is key! The dimmers in my testing work fine if there is enough current load on them and the instructions say so. Can’t remember but I think it says atleast 40 or 50w worth of load. So if each bulb is 9-11w you need to make sure you have a few. My father also has br20’s dimming but I think we didn’t get candles to work as they came up just short of the load requirement but we tried it anyways.
Maybe I have been lucky but I haven’t found Brand to matter as much as total load. I have only used probley 2 brands tho so…
In smaller rooms like pantry and laundry room where I only have a single or dual can light I installed DSC18103-ZWUS up in the first Light box, where the power and neutral came in but neutral only went to bulb not down to the switch. I’m not sure if you understand or looked into that, but the original switch still works the light fine plus you have z-wave and if one is on the the will flip it off like a 3-way switch. You have to do a bit of wiring in the box, but you won’t have to run any wires down the wall.