You can hide a device
local deviceid=10
luup.attr_set(“invisible”, 1, deviceid)
To make it visible again:
luup.attr_set(“invisible”,“”, deviceid)
Put this in your startup lua
[quote=“RichardTSchaefer, post:861, topic:172785”]You can hide a device
local deviceid=10
luup.attr_set(“invisible”, 1, deviceid)
To make it visible again:
luup.attr_set(“invisible”,“”, deviceid)
Put this in your startup lua[/quote]
Thanks Richard … to the rescue once again.
I replaced my wireless doorbell and integrated with Vera ;D
I used this doorbell : http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ZH8YRE?colid=1OI9T803J4Y6H&coliid=I2DVBHCOBXPE7J&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl
(Important to note - do not used a lighted door bell as the button push doesn’t work with the door sensor)
Used this sensor: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008Q5CTBE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
Just wired the doorbell to the external posts in the sensor and works like a charm!!
I also added the below - when I arm the device (when I’m not home) it randomly cycles between 3 dog bark mp3’s that is stored on my NAS…that way it’s not the same dog bark if the door bell is pushed multiple times. Criminals aren’t that smart 
going to be adding an ip cam next so I can take pictures when the door bell is pushed
url = require(“socket.url”)
local AV_DEV = 40
local LS_SID = “urn:micasaverde-com:serviceId:Sonos1”
local dogbarks = { “http://192.168.1.13:9001/disk/DLNA-PNMP3-OP01-FLAGS01700000/O0$1$8I2060.mp3","http://192.168.1.13:9001/disk/DLNA-PNMP3-OP01-FLAGS01700000/O0$1$8I2572.mp3”, “http://192.168.1.13:9001/disk/DLNA-PNMP3-OP01-FLAGS01700000/O0$1$8I1292.mp3”}
local dogbark = dogbarks[math.random(table.getn(dogbarks))], “RAID”
luup.call_action(LS_SID,“PlayURI”,{URIToPlay=dogbark,Volume=45},AV_DEV)
Created scenes involving an Ecobee, Econet Vents so they behave according to the vera house mode.
Vents setup in my home now vary depending on whether my house is heating or cooling, whether I am home, away or sleeping. House mode is also set to night when the ecobee mode changes to “night” and back to “home” when the ecobee wakes up allowing for different vent setups. Pretty nifty!
I Integrated my Amazon Echo into my Vera system to control up to 21 scenes and devices.
I made a video showing Vera and Echo working together to add voice control to my home
Check it out at http://www.MyZwave.net
[quote=“myhomeserver, post:865, topic:172785”]I Integrated my Amazon Echo into my Vera system to control up to 21 scenes and devices.
I made a video showing Vera and Echo working together to add voice control to my home
Check it out at http://www.MyZwave.net[/quote]
Did you use the github code to do this? I’m looking into integrating my Echo to my Vera now.
Yes, I am running it using the Java JDK 8.1 and it’s pretty easy. I did a little writeup on how I did it, but the github code is key. I have 21 devices/scenes in there - it wont work if I add any more than that
Last night I added an Leviton EnOcean Occupancy Sensor and a DSC pet-friendly motion detector to my spare first floor bedroom that is set-up as a home theater. Then today I added the logic to my Climate PLEG to automatically turn-back the heat/AC when unoccupied (Energy Saving Mode on my Honeywell Z-wave thermostat), and turn it back on when occupied (Normal Mode).
The process is a lot more complex than it sounds, due to wanting to make sure the occupancy detected isn’t a pet. Only a motion detection from the pet-friendly alarm panel sensor can turn the thermostat back from Energy Saving to Normal Mode, but once in Normal Mode the occupancy sensor can keep it there. Once an hour passes with no occupancy or motion detected, turn to Energy Saving Mode. The occupancy sensor is very sensitive, the motion detector is the opposite. By using both, I can get a very good result - even a human napping on the couch in the theater will move enough to cause the occupancy sensor to report periodically and prevent Energy Saving mode. But once in Energy Saving mode, a cat strolling into the room won’t turn the AC back down - it takes a human to activate the motion detector…
Since it was the day to change all my lock batteries I decided to replace my Schlage z-wave deadbolt on teh back door with a lever lock. If only I had known the amount of trouble that has gotten me in. 
Step 1: removal of the deadbolt. All went find until I tried to get the actual bolt assembly out. Frozen solid. Finally got it out but bent the in door part so I have to contact Schlage and see what a replacement will set me back for.
Step 2: Install the FE599. Easy peasy lemon squeezy. And here I thought all my troubles were over.
Step 3: Configuring the lock. Great, the part2.schlage.com website with the instructions no longer exists. Spent about 30 minutes scouring the Schlage site with no luck. Another 15 googling and luckily someone had the PDF online. Definately saved to HD now. 
Step 4: Adding the lock to my UI5 Vera 3. 1st try, sees lock but can’t configure. 2nd try with Vera within 3 feet on battery with no network using the zwave button. Same issue. censored Banging head censored Sledgehammer time! Ran a 75’ Cat5 cable from my switch to near the lock. Connected Vera 3 to power and network and placed about 8" from the lock. Setup my laptop and connected to Vera and set her to include. Entered programming code - Schlage - 0 and mm, red blinking Schlage light lasts longer this time and finally turns solid green instead of just switching off. Woohoo! Vera sees the lock correctly this time. Left her there for about an hour to let the lock configure properly and we are looking good. Even after moving her back to her normal location.
After this, I decided against replacing the Schlage zwave manual dead bolt on the front door with the motorized one for now. No use in tempting fate again…
[quote=“BOFH, post:869, topic:172785”]Since it was the day to change all my lock batteries I decided to replace my Schlage z-wave deadbolt on teh back door with a lever lock. If only I had known the amount of trouble that has gotten me in.
Step 1: removal of the deadbolt. All went find until I tried to get the actual bolt assembly out. Frozen solid. Finally got it out but bent the in door part so I have to contact Schlage and see what a replacement will set me back for.
Step 2: Install the FE599. Easy peasy lemon squeezy. And here I thought all my troubles were over.
Step 3: Configuring the lock. Great, the part2.schlage.com website with the instructions no longer exists. Spent about 30 minutes scouring the Schlage site with no luck. Another 15 googling and luckily someone had the PDF online. Definately saved to HD now.
Step 4: Adding the lock to my UI5 Vera 3. 1st try, sees lock but can’t configure. 2nd try with Vera within 3 feet on battery with no network using the zwave button. Same issue. censored Banging head censored Sledgehammer time! Ran a 75’ Cat5 cable from my switch to near the lock. Connected Vera 3 to power and network and placed about 8" from the lock. Setup my laptop and connected to Vera and set her to include. Entered programming code - Schlage - 0 and mm, red blinking Schlage light lasts longer this time and finally turns solid green instead of just switching off. Woohoo! Vera sees the lock correctly this time. Left her there for about an hour to let the lock configure properly and we are looking good. Even after moving her back to her normal location.
After this, I decided against replacing the Schlage zwave manual dead bolt on the front door with the motorized one for now. No use in tempting fate again… [/quote]
LOL…I hear you…I don’t have that lock but I manage to find problems or they find me. There was an article posted that Bluetooth wants to be the next home automation standard within 3 years. A lot of work needs to be done to the protocol but did make me curious and mad at the same time.
Actually, I have 2 more of those FE599 locks that have been on my UI5 Vera 3 for several years and I don’t recall having anywhere near this much hassle getting those to include. (Thank you Radio Shack zwave clearance) But this one had a newer firmware than those so who knows if that may have contributed. I found this recently on clearance at Lowes for $50 with a Nexia hub and plug-in dimmer. Too good a deal to not grab it.
As I’m getting older, now that I still am able, I’ve replaced all my door knobs with lever locks. Just in case later on I develop RA or similar. The front door is about the only one that doesn’t have a lever but the lock has an egg shaped knob that’s easy to twist to open the door. Since I’m originally from Europe where levers are standard, I much prefer them over the round knobs that seems to be the US standard. Especially as they are so much easier to open when one has their hands full. An elbow pushing down on the lever is all that is needed.
I added a dimmer and a relay switch for what will eventually be the baby’s room. I’m up to 78 devices, 53 Z-wave, 9 rooms, 20 scenes… according the the System Info plugin. All seems to be working well enough.
Yesterday I completed my outside flood light/Wi-Fi camera project. When we built the house all the floods were on several ciruits wired back to switches. Over the years I replaced those switches with first x-10 stuff and later Wave GE/Jasco switches to automate the schedule of the floods.
This year I decided to install cameras at the corners of the house adjacent to the floodlights. But obviously I needed power to those fixtures 24x7 for the cameras. So I installed several Aeon ZWave On/Off Switches in boxes that had only floods and Monoprice 11990 Dual On/Off Switches in boxes that would power floods and supply power to the cameras. i then removed the GE/Jasco switches from the head end of the various flood light circuits. Now Vera can control the power for each flood independently as well as control power if the Wi-Fi cameras need to be power cycled for some reason such as loss of signal.
Because the Monoprice devices are not latching unlike the Aeons I used one switch in a MultiSwitch to indicate the Last Known State (LKS) of the flood lights. If a power failure occurs while the floods are on when Vera detects power is restored some PLEG logic restores the state of the floods. The LKS switch is set/unset by the PLEG floodlight sunset/sunrise schedule so it tracks the condition of the lights.
PLEG also provides logic to restore the Wi-Fi cameras anytime it detects power is on. PLEG logic also detects the Loss of Signal coming from Blue Iris via Rex’s excellent Virtual Motion Sensor which is set using a HTTP command from BI. If the LOS persists, Vera power cycles the associated camera 11990 device to force the camera to re-acquire the network.
I had been experiencing too many LOS conditions on the original Wi-Fi camera installation so several weeks ago I installed a NetGear Range Extender but that didn’t do 100% either. So today I replaced all the 2dBI antennas on the cameras with 5dBi antennas and in the six hours since not had a single LOS condition so I’m hopeful that problem is resolved.
Added some LUA to a windows covering device to control my sun Somfy screens that are controlled via an other IP connected box (HomeWizard). They can do the up, down and stop of course, but I can also open them to x % using the slider.
Also added an automatic control option that looks at:
- the sun via my solar panels (Envoy); to know when there is sufficient sunlight to lower, or less to raise again.
- the room temp; as I only want to lower what the room is warm enough, else the sun can warm up the room
- the wind via Wunderground Weather plugin; don’t want to lower it in a storm.
- Rain Alarm (dutch Rain Alarm) via buienradar; want to keep the fabric neat not wet.
- and weather forecast (Wunderground); if the forecast is high, lower it sooner, when low, keep it up longer
so the screens go down when they need to and I should save a bit on heating and cooling the house.
Took a month or two of tweaking and adding controls (started with just room temp and sun), but runs like a charm now.
Cheers Rene
Relocated and rewired some 12V outdoor bullet cams to use passive PoE so I could mount them 25" to 50" away from the power and only have to run a cat5 cable against the soffits in my lanai. Come winter I’ll rerun the Cat5 inside the attic to a switch (while still using passive PeO) but for now it’s WiFi as it’s to censored hot to get into the attic right now. It’s a proof of concept to see of these adapters really work and so far I’m happy with the results
These are the ones I used but they almost doubled in price since I bought them a month ago.
http://www.amazon.com/iCreatin-Injector-Splitter-Connector-metallic/dp/B00XMHDETM
eBay may also have them and possibly cheaper.
I’m in the process of re-configuring all my ImperiHome remotes to use web browser video from Blue Iris rather than the Blue Iris Vera Plug In with an eye to removing the plug in completely.
I’ve already moved all data exchange between Vera <=> BI to HTTP; control of BI is via Vera HTTP => BI and BI Status => Vera via BI HTTP to Rex’s Virtual Motion Sensor for camera status and activity. So the Plug In has become superfluous and hopefully I’ll be removing it in a few days
I prefer ImperiHome’s handling of the video display from the Plug In versus the Browser display so I’ve submitted a change request to ImperiHome to see if they can make the browser display behave the same way.
i’ve been having strange problems with disarming the DSC alarm from Vera. I have set up some switches (MultiSwitch) that triggers the arm/disarm function. I use ImperiHome for the home control panel and it has selections for Arm Away, Arm Night Instant and Disarm.
So far I’ve not had any problems with the arm functions, selecting Arm Away or Arm night Instant on ImperiHome sets the appropriate MultiSwitch which triggers a PLEG resulting in the proper arm commands sent to the DSC. However, about once every two weeks or so pressing Disarm may or may not cause the DSC to disarm properly. In some cases it will disarm but the DSC interface does not report this back to Vera so Vera thinks the alarm is still armed; in other cases it does not disarm at all and requires manual action on the DSC panel.
I’m trying to determine if the Vera is simply not talking to the DSC/Envislink panel and if so why. I already had a periodic “Resend Blue Iris Profile” change function every 60 minutes so I added a “wake up” for the DSC; whenever the alarm is armed Vera will try to log on to the Envislink IP address (luup.inet.wget(“http://192.168.xx.xx”). If the problem is simply “going to sleep” over a period of several hours then this should keep the interface connection awake so that when the disarm command is issued the DSC should act on it.
moved on to WiFi based dirt cheap Switches … works pretty well / so decided to write a plugin for them …
as one goes for 15USD … and not locking up the z-wave stack … that may be a good alternative for non essential things … (like my bug zapper and coffee machine) 
Not my Vera… but my old Vera, now someone else’s. I took my Vera 2 and a CA8900 to a friend’s house with the promise of getting him started on home automation. After a couple of hours (most of which was spent on him trying to remember passwords), we had the thermostat connected and controllable through HomeWave.
Sucessfully gave birth to a new HA Addict