are you spy on my vera ? 
i have exactly the same setup … haha
but i detect TV on via the AEON Switch in combination with EMSensor (easy to do because i use a Plasma TV … which sucks alot of power) … the harmony activities are just recently become more stable so now if i press “OFF” on the harmony it also turns off the z-wave switch for all the additional stuff … like PVR, Amplifier, Sat Box, and the Fan in the closet.
Over the weekend I implemented two additional cameras in my Blue Iris system. Due to cabling access problems I was unable to use PoE for these and used Wi-Fi cameras instead. To get power I reconfigured an outdoor flood fixture to use an AEON Labs switch in the box to control the lights and leave mains power always active. To ensure ZWave signal quality I replaced a duplex outlet in the kitchen close to the outside light fixture with a GE/Jasco ZWave Duplex.
Previously the floods were on a GE/Jasco ZWave On/Off switch. I replaced the GE switch with a standard switch (to allow killing power to the box for maintenance purposes) and installed the AEON Labs device at the floods box. From this box I ran surface conduit with mains power to a new waterproof box with a small 120v-12v 3Amp power supply and from there 12v to the box with the cameras. The lights are still ZWave controlled but I now have camera power on at all times.
Because they use Wi-Fi there is always the chance that they will lose contract with BI so I implemented Rex Becket’s Virtual Motion Sensor devices driven by BI’s Loss Of Signal Watchdog function. If BI experiences a LOS from these cameras it sets the associated VMS device which right now sends an item to SysLog and my phone. If a LOS occurs frequently I’ll consider reinstating the GE/Jasco switch to allow Vera to power cycle the camera supply and perhaps force them to re-acquire the Wi-Fi Access Point.
Coincidentally related to the post above… I have a camera system consisting of one PoE camera without wireless, and one WiFi camera. Signal strength is poor in that location, and I have no Ethernet cables out there, so I previously had a WiFi router as a bridge with those two connected to it. The signal would drop 3-4 times a day. I purchased a TP-Link AV500 EoP system for $35 from Amazon. It took some work, but I was just able to ping my Ethernet-connected camera with it. I’ll probably get a cheap switch and hardwire the WiFi one as well.
I found that it made a difference where in the house I put the “source” box. It’s probably related to which phase of house wiring I’m on.
[quote=“DeltaNu1142, post:843, topic:172785”]Coincidentally related to the post above… I have a camera system consisting of one PoE camera without wireless, and one WiFi camera. Signal strength is poor in that location, and I have no Ethernet cables out there, so I previously had a WiFi router as a bridge with those two connected to it. The signal would drop 3-4 times a day. I purchased a TP-Link AV500 EoP system for $35 from Amazon. It took some work, but I was just able to ping my Ethernet-connected camera with it. I’ll probably get a cheap switch and hardwire the WiFi one as well.
I found that it made a difference where in the house I put the “source” box. It’s probably related to which phase of house wiring I’m on.[/quote]
Over the years I’ve tried a number of different Wi-Fi “range extenders” and been dis-satified every time. I’ve tried three different models of TPLink and most recently a Netgear E2700 and in every case they have been more trouble than they are worth. Right now I have my two NetGear dual band (A+G) routers running on different channels using the same SSID and everything seems to be fine.
The two Wi-Fi cameras are installed in an area with about 70-75% signal strength as measured with the NetGear “Wi-Fi Analytics” app for Android and they exhibit no LOS. Today I again tried installing the NetGear extender and within 10 minutes I experienced LOS on both cameras.
RE: the post above… these TP-Link AV500’s have been the best solution I’ve found. Two dropped connections in two weeks; both were picked back up within 5 seconds.
Today I swapped one of my garage door relays with an in-wall outlet. It looks cleaner, but more importantly, it frees up an appliance module. And I’ve got a couple outlets sitting around. I’ll probably do the other one tomorrow.
I tried with Tech Support to determine why my Everspring HSM02 door sensor that is bundled with Vera only gets about 3 weeks of battery if I’m lucky. The Everspring site claims nearly 3 years!
I have used zwave for some time and am very aware of obstructions, routing, appliances and various factors. I set the zwave settings as recommended by Tech Support but with limited success.
So that’s what I did and now to replace two more 2450 batteries. 
Picked up a box similar to below from Aldi at $50.
http://www.target.com/p/suncast-premium-deck-box-with-seat-50-gallon/-/A-13051932
Added a door/window sensor under the lid and placed it next to the front door with a notice on top to please place packages inside. I also created a scene to send me a push notification if the lid is opened while I’m away. A camera will be mounted shortly with full view off the and the scene will be extended to also record from that camera.
[quote=“BOFH, post:847, topic:172785”]Picked up a box similar to below from Aldi at $50.
http://www.target.com/p/suncast-premium-deck-box-with-seat-50-gallon/-/A-13051932
Added a door/window sensor under the lid and placed it next to the front door with a notice on top to please place packages inside. I also created a scene to send me a push notification if the lid is opened while I’m away. A camera will be mounted shortly with full view off the and the scene will be extended to also record from that camera.[/quote]
I love that idea! I work from home now, but for about 2 years I had a 2 hour commute (one way) to work. I would have loved it then!
I saw Aldi’s ad last week for that box and that’s what made the light bulb go on. I already had the sensor intended for the mailbox so that got repurposed. The actual sensor is mounted below the lip on the front corner or the box (protected from rain) with the magnet being on the bottom edge of the lid. Literally there’s less than 3mm of plastic between the two when the lid is closed.
Granted, my subdivision is relatively safe, but leaving boxes at my front door runs the risk of them being soaked if I get a rain storm (Hurricane season just started) so I needed an element proof solution.
Now to train my delivery persons. ;D
FTR, Both my local Aldi’s still have a number of these in stock so I’m assuming other ones do as well in case someone wants to replicate the solution. Store locator can be found at Aldi.us.
[quote=“tomtcom, post:846, topic:172785”]I tried with Tech Support to determine why my Everspring HSM02 door sensor that is bundled with Vera only gets about 3 weeks of battery if I’m lucky. The Everspring site claims nearly 3 years!
I have used zwave for some time and am very aware of obstructions, routing, appliances and various factors. I set the zwave settings as recommended by Tech Support but with limited success.
So that’s what I did and now to replace two more 2450 batteries. :([/quote]
I’ve read somewhere that if the magnet is a bit too far from the module (in closed position), it could result in a unwanted consumption.
I had the same problem with HSM02. My wakeup interval is 86400 and polling to 0.
Seems to work better (but no battery level in the UI).
I have a similar setup for my packages, however we are in a high theft area, so I have a sensor on the door to my elephant parcel drop http://elephantrunk.com that way I get notified when something has been delivered. Took awhile for the different postal services to use it though, sometimes they will leave a package propped against the package drop instead of in it. Sheesh!
You can always leave a note visible to the delivery person.
You can always leave a note visible to the delivery person.
If you visit the link, you’ll see the parcel drop comes with a placard to put near your doorbell. But people often don’t follow directions.
Yep, it takes a while, I have a note, I have an account with FEDEX and UPS with explicit notes to use it. I can always tell when it was not the standard driver that day.
I just have amazon deliver to my work. I’m there during delivery hours and if not someone else is, cameras all around the place.
Wiring around the entrance was too much work. Ended up using a “Ring” doorbell to record movement on my porch. Not integrated into Vera though.
I just received three MonoPrice #11990 Dual On/Off Relay Modules. I plan to use them in a rewiring project to place ZWave control over outdoor floods and camera power supplies.
Right now there are three outside floods on a single circuit currently controlled from a single ZWave switch. But I’m installing WiFi cameras at the flood locations and I need to rewire so that there will be power 24x7 at each box for the cameras but still controlled for night service of the floods. So the idea is there will be ZWave switching of the flood power and independent ZWave switching of the camera power supplies if needed hence the dual relay units.
The modules are a little low power only rated 550W @ 110v but the floods are all 9W LED units ith a maximum two at any one location so that won’t present a problem.
I’ll update this once I actually install one in the box.
The module is 1 1/4 x 1 1/2 x 7/8 so they will easily fit in the outside boxes and wiring is via pigtails with a flying lead antenna. There are additional wires for local control of the modules if needed. I got them at USD 27.99 each they seem to be a fairly good bargain — but they have gone up to USD 34.99 today.
The module included easily in UI 5 1.5.672 and creates three tiles, a parent and two child tiles with a ON/OFF button. I haven’t sorted out yet which tile does what but they all seem to cause the relays to switch so it isn’t obvious.
[Update 20150610]
Some testing has revealed:
It creates three devices (a) Parent Device (b) Device e1, (c) Device e2.
– Parent Device controls the RED load lead
– Device e1 controls the RED load lead
– Device e2 controls the YELLOW load lead
I had hoped that perhaps the Parent would control both but it doesn’t.
The relays are not latching so a power failure with a load ON recovers with the load OFF. If a continuous state is required some sort of Last-Known-State latch will be required. In my case I already have this configured with two Hawking Appliance Modules as they also recover in the OFF state; some PLEG logic examines a LKS latch for each in a MultiSwitch and turns the lights back on if required.
[quote=“vosmont, post:850, topic:172785”][quote=“tomtcom, post:846, topic:172785”]I tried with Tech Support to determine why my Everspring HSM02 door sensor that is bundled with Vera only gets about 3 weeks of battery if I’m lucky. The Everspring site claims nearly 3 years!
I have used zwave for some time and am very aware of obstructions, routing, appliances and various factors. I set the zwave settings as recommended by Tech Support but with limited success.
So that’s what I did and now to replace two more 2450 batteries. :([/quote]
I’ve read somewhere that if the magnet is a bit too far from the module (in closed position), it could result in a unwanted consumption.
I had the same problem with HSM02. My wakeup interval is 86400 and polling to 0.
Seems to work better (but no battery level in the UI).[/quote]
I can confirm the magnet is not far enough away, it’s quite a small gap but good point either way.
I’m going to re-read through the PDF of the HSM02 that Vera sent me and double check everything. Thanks.
[quote=“clippermiami, post:858, topic:172785”]I just received three MonoPrice #11990 Dual On/Off Relay Modules. I plan to use them in a rewiring project to place ZWave control over outdoor floods and camera power supplies.
Right now there are three outside floods on a single circuit currently controlled from a single ZWave switch. But I’m installing WiFi cameras at the flood locations and I need to rewire so that there will be power 24x7 at each box for the cameras but still controlled for night service of the floods. So the idea is there will be ZWave switching of the flood power and independent ZWave switching of the camera power supplies if needed hence the dual relay units.
The modules are a little low power only rated 550W @ 110v but the floods are all 9W LED units ith a maximum two at any one location so that won’t present a problem.
I’ll update this once I actually install one in the box.
The module is 1 1/4 x 1 1/2 x 7/8 so they will easily fit in the outside boxes and wiring is via pigtails with a flying lead antenna. There are additional wires for local control of the modules if needed. I got them at USD 27.99 each they seem to be a fairly good bargain — but they have gone up to USD 34.99 today.
The module included easily in UI 5 1.5.672 and creates three tiles, a parent and two child tiles with a ON/OFF button. I haven’t sorted out yet which tile does what but they all seem to cause the relays to switch so it isn’t obvious.
[Update 20150610]
Some testing has revealed:
It creates three devices (a) Parent Device (b) Device e1, (c) Device e2.
– Parent Device controls the RED load lead
– Device e1 controls the RED load lead
– Device e2 controls the YELLOW load lead
I had hoped that perhaps the Parent would control both but it doesn’t.
The relays are not latching so a power failure with a load ON recovers with the load OFF. If a continuous state is required some sort of Last-Known-State latch will be required. In my case I already have this configured with two Hawking Appliance Modules as they also recover in the OFF state; some PLEG logic examines a LKS latch for each in a MultiSwitch and turns the lights back on if required.[/quote]
As noted installing this device creates a “Parent” and TWO child devices “e1” and e2". The “Parent” AND “e1” controls one load, “e2” controls the other load so obviously either the “Parent” or “e1” is redundant.
Is there any way to suppress the “Parent” or the “e1” child device so that there are only two devices to control the two loads? I tried simply removing “e1” but obviously it returns on the next restart.
Is there perhaps a replacement “device_type” or “device_file” that would result in two switches one for each load?