I am looking for a wall switch that does not supply 110v to load leads. Looking for one that has the relay portion electrically isolated so I basically have 2 wires that are a contact closure (no voltage). I would have sworn there was one out there but searching for relay gets me results for non dimmable switches.
Try a search for Evolve LSM-15
JOD.
[quote=“JOD, post:2, topic:169829”]Try a search for Evolve LSM-15
JOD.[/quote]
Diagram for that looks like it supplies 120V on switched lead. (neutral and blue to load)
Homepro used to make a ZRW113 that did this (2 blue contact wires)
[quote=“Les F, post:3, topic:169829”][quote=“JOD, post:2, topic:169829”]Try a search for Evolve LSM-15
JOD.[/quote]
Diagram for that looks like it supplies 120V on switched lead. (neutral and blue to load)
Homepro used to make a ZRW113 that did this (2 blue contact wires)[/quote]
The replacement for that (looks like the same hardware to me) is the LFM-20. But it’s not really a wall switch, either.
–Richard
You can always get a relay with a mains powered coil (120/240 depending where you are) and then use the contacts of that relay to activate your circuit.
Not much extra wiring if you get one with crew terminals.
Nick
Yeah… was looking at the lfm-20, if it had a button on it, it would be good enough for the job.
Let me explain what I want to do.
I have a wood pellet stove with simple wall thermostat on it (mercury contact closure trips low voltage relay).
I want to put a relay / switch in series with that so that if I want to fire it up before I get home I can do so remotely.
I don’t care about adjusting the thermostat remotely. If the z-wave relay is engaged and its also cold enough the
stove fires up.
Yes the stove is powered by 110v but I don’t want to switch it that way. If by chance I wanted to turn it off (or forgot to turn it off, killing 110v would stop it, but not allow it do go through its shutdown/cool down blower phase the it does when turned off via a thermostat.)
Of course I could rig up some kinda switch and external relay but was hoping for something clean.
And at this point I know I am off topic and belong over in the hvac forum, but since I just want a switch with isolated contacts that’s why I started here. 
[quote=“Les F, post:6, topic:169829”]Yeah… was looking at the lfm-20, if it had a button on it, it would be good enough for the job.
Let me explain what I want to do.
I have a wood pellet stove with simple wall thermostat on it (mercury contact closure trips low voltage relay).
I want to put a relay / switch in series with that so that if I want to fire it up before I get home I can do so remotely.
I don’t care about adjusting the thermostat remotely. If the z-wave relay is engaged and its also cold enough the
stove fires up.
Yes the stove is powered by 110v but I don’t want to switch it that way. If by chance I wanted to turn it off (or forgot to turn it off, killing 110v would stop it, but not allow it do go through its shutdown/cool down blower phase the it does when turned off via a thermostat.)
Of course I could rig up some kinda switch and external relay but was hoping for something clean.
And at this point I know I am off topic and belong over in the hvac forum, but since I just want a switch with isolated contacts that’s why I started here. :)[/quote]
It’d be nice if someone made the thing you’re looking for. There is a button on the LFM-20, but there’s no great way to mount that relay in a switch box, and you’d have to make your own button-presser to mount to the face, or carry around a screwdriver to push the recessed button. Not sure that button is intended for frequent use, either.
You could go with the LFM-20, and replace an on/off light switch in the same room with a Leviton 2-button scene controller–those will drive two local loads, and you could use one for the light switch and leave the second local load unwired, but associate it with the LFM-20. That would give you a local on/off, and Vera can drive the LFM-20 directly for remote.
At least, I think this would work.
–Richard
I am doing virtually the same with my heat pump. In my case I used an appliance switch (with a local on/off switch on it) and plugged a wire into it that went into a small box containing a relay. This relay then has isolated contacts that go to the thermostat terminals of the heat pump.
It’s been working well, THe “one wire” temperature sensor reports temperature back to Vera and decisions are made based on time of day, motion senor triggers, and temperature as to whether to run the heat pump.
The relay run by the appliance switch was a very easy way to interface with Vera.
Nick
Now you got me off on a tangent… you said “one wire” as in “Dallas Semiconductor 1-wire”? Years ago I had one of those networks setup in a previous house with temperature ‘buttons’ all over the place and tied back to a Linux server running MisterHouse. Point me in a direction that talks about 1-wire network with Vera (will of course search forums, but any quick links that you know helpful would be great).
Will either trace wiring in stove back to relay power (hoping it is 110 on the coil side) or just do an external box as suggested.
One of the other members of the forum, Chris, developed an interface to Vera. It works MUCH better than the Z wave temperature sensor I used before
http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php/topic,8381.0.html
is the thread about it.
It’s giving me a fast reliable update (via wired Ethernet) and Vera is happy to act on it.
Nick