What are the best devices/solutions for the following uk wiring (2-wire) problem?
I want to replace my existing wall switches with a z-wave solution that allows manual pressing of the wall switch to switch on/off, as well as scene/remote control. Ideally, the manual toggling will set the status so the controller wont simply toggle it to the wrong setting.
TIA
Check out the fibaro dimmer inserts, they are by far the best solution - modules that make any switch in to a zwave switch - plus you get a second switch thrown in - so you can replace a single switch with a double switch, connected with just the 2 wires present behind most uk light switches, then you can associate the second switch with a scene or other zwave devices - my second switch turns on table lamps in each room, while the main controls the ceiling, (all with just two wires at the switch!!) I’ve fitted 4 in the last month, they are v.easy to fit, as long as your back box is big enough - i’ve fitted 45mm boxes. also they report status instantly - if you flick the switch, the state change is reported after about a second in the web ui, and i think quicker on sqremote for the iPhone.
Note- the on off module needs 3 wires, so go for the dimmer - if you use the wall toggle switch it simply turns the light on and off, you can adjust the dim level through vera, then when you use the wall switch it turns off, or on to the previous dim level. A quick flick on and off at the wall switch will return it to full brightness without needing vera.
I’ve used them with some really nice switches from forbes and lomax - much more stylish than any zwave switch availble in the uk, or world wide for that matter.
Thank Mark
Would you be kind enough to expand further - i’d already got the switch version, but looking at the instructions for the dimmer, see that they do have wiring fof two-wire. Unfortunately, i dont understand it, as they still refer to live and neutral. Are these ‘just’ the 2 wires behind our wall switches ? (an in-line switch in the live circuit)
Hi, the instructions aren’t the clearest! I’ve sketched a simpler drawing, hopefully this will make it clearer, (obviously my brown/blue might be red/black in your house depending on age, also i’ve not drawn earth.
[url=http://www.designpeg.com/diagram.jpg]designpeg.com
You put a jumper between o and n for a two wire installation. I’ll be fitting a few more after christmas, and might photograph the procedure if it’s helpful? also, out of the box they are set up to use intermittent push switches, to use toggle switches you need to set the parameter 14 to 1.
At first i’d ordered the switch version, but exchanged for dimmers - i’d not read spec properly - all are 2 wire cable EXCEPT the switch.
Bear in mind such dimmers don’t work with CFL bulbs, even the dimmable ones. They let a small amount of power trickle through to power the module and this upsets the CFL bulbs.
Use halogen, they still save energy and are dimmable.
Thanks - I’ll give it a go when a dimmer arrives.
There seems to be some success with dimmable LEDs?
[quote=“markbawden, post:4, topic:169848”]Hi, the instructions aren’t the clearest! I’ve sketched a simpler drawing, hopefully this will make it clearer, (obviously my brown/blue might be red/black in your house depending on age, also i’ve not drawn earth.
[url=http://www.designpeg.com/diagram.jpg]designpeg.com
You put a jumper between o and n for a two wire installation. I’ll be fitting a few more after christmas, and might photograph the procedure if it’s helpful? also, out of the box they are set up to use intermittent push switches, to use toggle switches you need to set the parameter 14 to 1.
At first i’d ordered the switch version, but exchanged for dimmers - i’d not read spec properly - all are 2 wire cable EXCEPT the switch.[/quote]
Mark, thanks for you diagram.
I am brand new to Z-Wave (but old hand at X10).
The Australian controller has two load terminals (Load live and Load neutral - see pic attached). I’ve also got an old house with two-wire lighting system. I have tried your suggestion, but lights not responding to connecting the jumper to either load live or load neutral. Any ideas?
Our supplier here probably won’t advise me, understandably since we have an Australian law that states only qualified electricians can carry out this work. I know it can’t be that hard, and given I am anal about disconnecting power before proceeding (PITA to and from the meter box - but necessary) the forums are my only chance without having to fork out large money. Besides, most electricians eyes glaze over when I talk about home automation.
Thanks again for your time.
I think you might be out of luck if your switch only has access to the active wire (that is, the neutral wire returns straight from the load to the supply without going near the switch on the way back). The Aeon in-wall switch that you’ve posted the picture of is expecting to connect to your supply’s live and neutral. Since you have to get an electrician in anyway, it looks like they’ll also be rewiring those circuits…
Our supplier here probably won't advise me, understandably since we have an Australian law that states only qualified electricians can carry out this work.
I’d get an electrician in for the Aeon in-wall switches anyway, not because the wiring is difficult (it really isn’t) but because they are buggers to fit into a wall cavity securely. In terms of retrofitting a regular wall switch, they’re not really very suitable. You might be better off putting the Aeon in-wall switch in your ceiling space, in which case you, or rather, your electrician, are running extra cabling anyway to reach the wall plate. Or use a dedicated Z-wave wall-panel light switch, replacing your original switch entirely. There are some turning up in Australia now. But you’ll need a neutral wire for those too.
As for requiring an electrician to do the work: that’s true for your permanent house wiring, but it doesn’t prevent you from making up an appliance that you plug into a power point in your wall. Cut a power extension cord in half, and join up the wires to your Aeon in-wall switch. Make it electrically safe by putting the metal bits inside a box, and test all the wiring scenarios you like with a desk lamp for a load. When you have something that works to your satisfaction, show it to the aforementioned glazed-eyed electrician and ask for ten of those.