[quote=“kwieto, post:14, topic:197166”]You can buy the bypass from Fibaro seller, it is device produced by them.
There are two versions, FGB-001 for the (old) FGD-211 dimmer and FGB-002 for the (new) FGD-212 dimmer.
I don’t know what is the difference between, both are installed the same way and looks alike.
As for the wiring, the ground cable doesn’t count as the third wire :").
In “2-wire” system you have live (hot) cable coming to the switch and another one delivering live to the lamp/fan. The lamp/fan is connected to the “real” neutral elsewhere, the connection looks like on the attached picture:
In “3-wire system” the neutral cable from the lamp/fan is also going through the switch box, so you can access it from there.
The main issue here is that the dimmer has to be powered somehow and many of them need connection to the live and neutral current, so 3-wire installation.
Fibaro dimmers handle 2-wire system because of different construction - they behave as a “lamp” - after the installation small amount of power is going through them continuously. This power is not enough to power standard bulbs, but can be a problem if you have LED, luminescent lamps, or fan motor - it may happen that your LED light will glow or fan will rotate slowly even if the Dimmer is OFF.
This is what the “bypass” is for. This device channels the small current running from the dimmer through itself and preventing it to reach lamp or motor.[/quote]
[quote=“kwieto, post:15, topic:197166”]Another approach is to find the place where the cables from fan, switch and the live/neutral from the power source are meeting together (usually some kind of ceiling box).
Then you can install dimmer there, just disconnect cables coming to the switch from the live and connect to the dimmer IN connectors.
This way you can use any dimmer, the problem is that in drywall constructions you often don’t have such ceiling box and this part of the installation is behind the wall with no easy access.[/quote]
I will confirm my wiring but I’m pretty sure that it is merely hot / neutral / ground to the fans in this case and then inside the fan canopy the split is made internally. The reason I know this is that I had these installed on our back patio after moving into this house three years ago and it had an RF remote to turn them on and off. I personally replaced the RF receiver in the junction box feeding these fans with a Z-Wave switch but that merely is a binary ON - OFF switch serving the fan canopy but control of the fan speed and dimmer is still via the RF remote supplied with the fan by the manufacturer.
I want to remove the Z-Wave Switch from the junction box, wire nut the feeder to the fans back together in the junction box and move control to each fan individually by bypassing the internal RF controller and put in a Z-Wave controller instead. I started down this road with Insteon Fanlincs but support for Insteon in VeraPlus is spotty at best so I’m looking into other Z-Wave solutions such as this.