I installed an intermatic ca3750 outside yesterday and performed the vera antenna mod with a large cellular style antenna that I can move around. I performed a full heal and I am getting 2 stars for this device.
I went to control it today and although it turned right on, it took 3 attempts to Turn it off. Failed to
Communicate. I think it’s on the borderline of its range. It’s on the furthest wall from the vera, and on a cinderblock wall… Not good for when I set a scene and run it unmonitored…
So I guess I need some kind of repeater to help the signal. The closest outlet is on the “inside side” of that same wall, there’s really nothing outside. My question is, should I plug in a repeater there or should I hardwire a zwave outlet there? Will I get a stronger signal out of the repeater? What are the pros and cons of each?
Theoretically, the signal strength differences between a Z-Wave repeater, such as the Aeon Labs DSD37 Z-Wave Range Extender/Repeater, and a Z-Wave outlet or switch should be negligible. The reality is that there will be differences, small ones at the least, because of differences in manufacturers, antennas, wall and gang box materials, etc. I doubt that ANY two device installations(even same make and model) will have the same signal qualities.
I personally see no point in a Z-Wave device that serves as a repeater only. Most Z-Wave devices are also repeaters and since the cost is similar I prefer to have switching functionality as well as repeating.
For the sake of a clean install and Z-Wave enabling another light/circuit, I usually opt for installing a Z-Wave outlet or light switch as an intermediate node. However, I frequently recommend that people get at least one lamp module, such as the GE/Jasco 45603 Light & Appliance Module, to use for siting and testing of intermediate nodes. As well as a controllable lamp module, which you can always use, it is a repeater that you can easily relocate(don’t forget to heal) to find the best spot for a permanently mounted intermediate node.
I have seen discussions on here before about that. I think if you just add for example a zwave on/off switch somewhere half way, that will improve communication. I have done that with one of my devices which had problems, so in a socket nearby, i plugged in a everspring on/off module. Its sort of wasted as nothing is plugged in, but i could use it for something one day, and it did improve communication a lot. The discussion on here (cant remember exactly where, maybe do a search) was that why use a repeater, it does nothing more than a zwave device (obviously not a battery powered one as they do not relay zwave commands)
Adding a repeater with utility is (in my opinion) a always a better option. If you can find switch to replace or an outlet to activate a light, all the better and a lot more fun. As ZWaver points out, a lamp module is one of the most functional devices particularly because of its portability. They are not always pretty hanging on the wall, though. The nice side benefit of the outlets are the little blue light, which is bright enough to be a nightlight on long hallways…
I just replaced my old mechanical pool pump with the same CA3750 and it was on an exterior concrete wall as well. Fortunately, it is close enough to get a good connection. It is a very nice device.
I had a little different problem. I needed to extend the range of my network due to some locks on the edge of the network footprint. Because these require a device that repeats with security enabled, and not all zwave devices do. According to tech support, for the GE switches I am using, they need to have a version number that ends in an “a” or “b”. I opted for a couple of repeaters. I bought a couple of Aeon Labs Z-wave Repeater that support beaming, and will work with my Kwickset locks. They have done a good job in extending my networks footprint and those two doors that were on the fringe no longer give me retry errors. The repeaters are nice and small and do not block the other outlet of a duplex.
Thanks for the info guys, definitely some good replies here.
Rjstuart - I am glad you brought that up. One of my next projects is a kwikset lock on the door that leads out to my backyard, where the ca3750 is. Now that you mention that, I need to make sure whatever I use as a repeater will have the security enabled to beam to the lock. I am pretty sure my GE/Jasco switches will do that… Maybe I’ll invest in one more in that area.
The kwikset lock itself will not operate as a repeater since it is battery powered, right? That would solve both problems!
[quote=“DaveH28, post:7, topic:178606”]Thanks for the info guys, definitely some good replies here.
Rjstuart - I am glad you brought that up. One of my next projects is a kwikset lock on the door that leads out to my backyard, where the ca3750 is. Now that you mention that, I need to make sure whatever I use as a repeater will have the security enabled to beam to the lock. I am pretty sure my GE/Jasco switches will do that… Maybe I’ll invest in one more in that area.
The kwikset lock itself will not operate as a repeater since it is battery powered, right? That would solve both problems![/quote]
Dave, you are correct that the Kwikset lock itself will not repeat the network since it is a battery device. I had some questions before I had proceeded with this myself and contacted tech support first. Here is a cut and paste of what they told me.
[paste]
Hi Bob,
The best way to find out is to contact the manufacturer directly. Regarding those 2 switches you can check on the device to see if you have the version 2.0a, 3.0a, 2.0b, 3.0b as explained here: http://docs5.mios.com/doc.php?language=1&manual=1&platform=3Lite&page=door_locks
I did some research and it seems that the Aeon Labs Z-wave Repeater supports beaming so it should work with door locks.
Please let me know if you have any other questions.
Best regards.
Dennis Nastasa - ticketing@my.mios.com
Mi Casa Verde Inc.
Technical Support Team
[/paste]
The switches he is referring to are the GE 45609 and GE 45614 which I had installed on my main lights. When I checked the version of those switches, they did not have an “a” or “b” after the version number so I figured they were not beaming the network to my locks. And indeed once I put the repeater in, the two locks responded much better. Before I would get multiple retries and some time out failures. I found those repeaters on Amazon at a decent price.
The switches he is referring to are the GE 45609 and GE 45614 which I had installed on my main lights. When I checked the version of those switches, they did not have an “a” or “b” after the version number so I figured they were not beaming the network to my locks. And indeed once I put the repeater in, the two locks responded much better. Before I would get multiple retries and some time out failures. I found those repeaters on Amazon at a decent price.
[/quote]
Probably a noob question but how can I check the version on 45609 switches I have already installed? I currently have 3.
Most all of the new GE 45609, 45612,45614, and other in wall switches and outlets sold now have the routing and beaming. Some of the ones I had were older and were manufactured without beaming available in the devices. I am pretty sure any of the ones you would buy today would be the a or b version, unless you get something that has been on the shelf for 5 years.
Also you should draw out the topography of your network to determine if any devices might fall outside your network?s footprint. In my case, the door locks were too far away from any switches I had installed that might have been able to repeat the signal. So I resorted to the little plug in repeaters. Also remember you can only have 4 hops. This is basic Zwave 101, but sometimes it gets overlooked.
There is no “configuration” needed for the 45603 to act as a repeater/extender. Include the 45603 into your Z-Wave network at it does the job. If you move the 45603 to a new location, you should perform a Z-Wave network heal or wait until the automatic heal is performed overnight.
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