I think this is caused by a weak signal. It happened to me too. The only option I would is to move the VeraLite box close to the door locks. Either you have to do that or need to install Security enabled repeater modules in your home. It is very annoying that Vera3 and VeraLite devices do not have external antennas so that we can extend the range without moving the device physically.[/quote]
Hm, I have a light switch about 6 inches from the door, another 3 about 8 feet from that, 15 feet to the next light switch, 8 feet to another, and then 10 feet to the Vera. The light switch next to the door works fine.
I am guessing then that the light switches aren’t security enabled repeater devices? (Jasco 45609WB)
Is there a way to know what devices are security enabled? Any recommendations?
Well, it looks like the front panel is required for the deadbolt to work properly. It seems that if you disconnect the front panel and test it immediately after it works. But after a little while it responds that it’s busy.
[quote=“techywarrior, post:361, topic:174019”]I am guessing then that the light switches aren’t security enabled repeater devices? (Jasco 45609WB)
Is there a way to know what devices are security enabled? Any recommendations?[/quote]
Is Jasco the same as GE? Usually all new GE devices are “beam”-capable. That is what you need for the lock to route commands to Vera, if it’s not within the direct distance.
But, many light switches (all of Leviton, for example!) are NOT beam-capable and cannot route secure commands to the lock.
Google for it - there was a table of “beam” devices. Slightly outdated, but still good.
What do you mean by front panel? If it’s plastic battery cover, then it’s not important. If you mean the entire front assembly, then it won’t work, as you have to disconnect the touchpad…
[quote=“denix, post:354, topic:174019”]I had no problems pairing the first lock with Vera. But the second lock took several attempts - originally it was failing to communicate the security keys, until it succeeded on 4th or 5th try. When repeating pairing process, I always first tried to unpair the lock, i.e. remove from the network. Either way, 2 of those attempts failed - I now have 2 dead lock devices in the dashboard (besides the 2 working ones).
Now, the question - how to remove them. I already tried all the suggestions I could find on this forum - used the trash button, used the data_request URL with delete action, did manual backup and tried Z-Wave chip reset, nothing works and those 2 dead locks always re-appear when the engine reloads.
Is there any way I can get rid of those devices? Help! :)[/quote]
So, the only way I could fix my problem of 2 ghost half-included locks (that would always come back on reload) is by excluding the good lock from the network, remove the 2 dead copies and making sure they don’t come back any more. And then re-include the lock back into the network.
So, Vera refuses to remove dead devices when they are copies of a good one that is still in the network…
Anyone with Firmware 5.8 and able to get it to register with the latest firmware on Vera? I’ve spent the last 5 hours and only got it to accept it once.
STEP:
Put VERA on exclusion mode / full power
On lock press SCHLAGE+ Program Code + 0
I get the “X”, do it like 10 times.
Anyhow moved on from there with a full factory reset on the LOCK by remove battery, hold SCHLAGE and plug in battery.
Now put VERA on INCLUSION mode / full power
on lock press SCHLAGE + Program Code + 0
i keep getting “X” and not CHECK.
Redo the step above over 30 times already unsuccessful. The VERA is 10 inches from the lock. Reboot the VERA over 20 times. Out of the 30 times I was able to get a GREEN CHECK once, able setup pin and been getting unable to get secured code ever since…
On step #5, after you press the program code and if you press SCHALGE again, you can’t press 0.
Option #1
Disconnect Vera and move Vera close to the Schlage lock. Plug Vera into an electrical outlet near the lock.
2. After 60 seconds, Vera’s power light comes on and starts double flashing - meaning Vera is operational but has no internet connection.
3. Press-and-hold the black button on the back of Vera, then tap the red button once. (Be careful not to press the black (‘restore’) button twice in a row, as this will reset Vera to the factory default configuration!) Vera’s power light will begin blinking steadily once per second - meaning Vera is in ‘Add’ mode. (Wait up to 30 seconds for Vera’s power light to start blinking like this, and if it does not, repeat Step 3 until it does.)
4. On the Schlage lock’s keypad, enter its 6-digit programming code. The light will blink orange.
(Note: You can find the lock’s program code on the back of the lock or in its manual.)
5. Wait the lock to flash 3 times and to tone 3 times, then press the [Schlage] button, and then ‘0’.
6. If Vera’s power light flutters briefly, and the lock’s [Schlage] button blinks green twice, pairing was successful. Otherwise, you must follow the steps below for ‘Resetting a Schlage Lock’ and then repeat Steps 1-5 to try pairing the lock again
7. Reconnect Vera back where it belongs (or connect to Vera wirelessly) and access Vera through your web browser.
8. On Vera’s ‘Devices’ page, assign the lock to a room and give it a name, and set any other options, then click ‘Save’.
9. Try activating (locking or unlocking) the door lock using Vera.
I have been going back and forth with tech support for past 3 months because my VeraLite would not associate a new node on battery power, only on AC. So I finally decided to bite the bullet and re-add my entire system. What a PITA! (47 switches, 2 locks, 2 thermostats, and some miscellaneous battery powered devices.)
However, in that include/exclude time I got to know the UI pretty well. A couple more modal dialog boxes (when delays are necessary) would make the UI so much better.
Anyways, I had a ton of problems with my locks and I think I finally figured out the “secret” and couldn’t find the same solution on the forum, so I thought I post my solution to the failed inclusion.
So don’t worry about factory reset, it doesn’t affect the Z-Wave side.
These instruction are specific to the VeraLite.
When adding a BE469 do the following :
Make sure the lock and the Vera are right next to each other. Either remove the lock from the door or run power/network to the Vera by the lock.
Go the Web UI, under Devices select “Add Device” in the sub menu in green.
Then Add
Then Option 1
Hit the Schlage button, your programming code, then zero.
Wait till the Green Check Mark appears on the Lock.
YOU MUST WAIT FOR THE GREEN CHECK MARK, DO NOT IMMEDIATELY HIT NEXT WHEN THE WEB BROWSER SHOWS THAT IT FOUND THE LOCK.
After the Green Check Mark appears on the Lock THEN Hit Next.
Follow the rest of the steps normally
Go back to the Device menu and watch the lock go through the configuration steps (Getting Name, Purging, …).
The lock should then be included.
So the mistake I was making was rushing through steps 5 6 7 above for fear of some sort of communication timeout. Turns out if you hit next too fast, the Vera starts some sort of communication with the device that upsets the actual inclusion process.
I’m sorry, but doing a full power add, which is what you described cwingert, is NOT necessary to add these devices. I’ve got two BE469s (best Z-wave locks made btw, IMO) in my house and did low-power/battery adds with my vera-lite. Simply follow the instructions that are documented in the wiki. The mistake most people make is that after putting their Veralite back in its normal resting spot and powering it up, adding the new devices/locks via the device web page, they don’t wait long enough (several minutes) for Vera to fully poll and configure the devices. They then assume it’s not working right.
The other possibility is that the Vera is too far away from the locks after initially adding them and there needs to be additional secure Z-wave repeaters in the network.
[quote=“cwingert, post:370, topic:174019”]I have been going back and forth with tech support for past 3 months because my VeraLite would not associate a new node on battery power, only on AC. So I finally decided to bite the bullet and re-add my entire system. What a PITA! (47 switches, 2 locks, 2 thermostats, and some miscellaneous battery powered devices.)
However, in that include/exclude time I got to know the UI pretty well. A couple more modal dialog boxes (when delays are necessary) would make the UI so much better.
Anyways, I had a ton of problems with my locks and I think I finally figured out the “secret” and couldn’t find the same solution on the forum, so I thought I post my solution to the failed inclusion.
So don’t worry about factory reset, it doesn’t affect the Z-Wave side.
These instruction are specific to the VeraLite.
When adding a BE469 do the following :
Make sure the lock and the Vera are right next to each other. Either remove the lock from the door or run power/network to the Vera by the lock.
Go the Web UI, under Devices select “Add Device” in the sub menu in green.
Then Add
Then Option 1
Hit the Schlage button, your programming code, then zero.
Wait till the Green Check Mark appears on the Lock.
YOU MUST WAIT FOR THE GREEN CHECK MARK, DO NOT IMMEDIATELY HIT NEXT WHEN THE WEB BROWSER SHOWS THAT IT FOUND THE LOCK.
After the Green Check Mark appears on the Lock THEN Hit Next.
Follow the rest of the steps normally
Go back to the Device menu and watch the lock go through the configuration steps (Getting Name, Purging, …).
The lock should then be included.
So the mistake I was making was rushing through steps 5 6 7 above for fear of some sort of communication timeout. Turns out if you hit next too fast, the Vera starts some sort of communication with the device that upsets the actual inclusion process.
Hope this helps.[/quote]
Can you confirm something…
You know during the inclusion process, the light on the Vera Lite blink slowly, so you know you are inclusion vs blinking fast for exclusion. Anyway, during the slow blinking of inclusion, once you press SCHLAGE + PROGRAM CODE + 0, do you notice the light stop blinking for a good period until SCHLAGE return a been and it continue back blinking?
[quote=“TC1, post:371, topic:174019”]I’m sorry, but doing a full power add, which is what you described cwingert, is NOT necessary to add these devices. I’ve got two BE469s (best Z-wave locks made btw, IMO) in my house and did low-power/battery adds with my vera-lite. Simply follow the instructions that are documented in the wiki. The mistake most people make is that after putting their Veralite back in its normal resting spot and powering it up, adding the new devices/locks via the device web page, they don’t wait long enough (several minutes) for Vera to fully poll and configure the devices. They then assume it’s not working right.
The other possibility is that the Vera is too far away from the locks after initially adding them and there needs to be additional secure Z-wave repeaters in the network.
-TC[/quote]
I have two of those near the lock. Both are the GE/JAMCO Outlet. Still didn’t help. I’ll try again this weekend.
Hey guys, super new to the forum (first post). I came across this thread while doing research on Schlage locks. I have only ORDERED my new MiCasaVerde lite, but my more pressing issue is that I need to get a lock for my house sooner rather than later. I have read this thread front to back and seeing that a number of different locks have come up (some people seem to have multiple brands), would you recommend the Schlage taken into account the firmware updates? Or perhaps the Kwikset or Yale?
This is a very long thread, but all the locks I wish to control are Schlage. I hope you all can answer three questions:
I want to use the whole shebang on the doors to my apartment, i.e, keypad, etc, and I would like to just use the motorized deadbolt and z-wave parts on the outermost doors (street entrances). Can I use an existing tumblers/cylinders (the part the key goes into) on both a full lock and just a motorized deadbolt?
And in this scenario, is additional work required on the doors or jambs, such as drilling or sawing?
The thread is full of people having trouble with the locks. Is it disproportionate, because people who don’t need help don’t post, or is it a problematic lock?
Hopefully this will answer everyone’s questions. I am anal about security (part of my responsibility in the e-commerce world) and did extensive research before making my lock purchases.
All of the lock and door hardware throughout my house is now Schlage (we had to gut and rebuild due to Sandy).
Schlage is the only manufacturer of under $200 (street price) Z-wave deadbolts that are ANSI Grade 1. (Kwikset and Yale are Grade 2)
When you purchase the locks (or after the fact) you can have all the locks keyed alike. I have BE469s on both my front and back doors and ordered them keyed alike (no extra charge from Build.com, outstanding customer service).
The BE469s will retrofit any existing deadbolt. It literally takes minutes to install. If you have new doors, they install just like traditional locks.
I did in fact have a bad lock during my initial order. Schlage offered to replace it, I didn’t even have to send back the original.
They are true 10-digit keypads, not the 5 button doubled-up gimmick like on the Kwiksets. You can have combinations anywhere from 4 to 8 digits long.
Opening the lock either manually from inside or via the keypad from the outside will trigger events that you can use in Vera.
These are true motorized deadbolts, i use my phone to open my front door from the car when I get home.
The latest firmware in these locks works flawlessly. Most of the folks having problems go back more than a year or earlier.
^^Thank you!! So I just posted above you. Looks like you’ve answered all my questions and concerns in the positive. I look forward to getting these locks!
I saw your concerns and I was trying to help. As you alluded to, you never hear the “positive” aspects of a product, only when folks complain. I tried to paint a fair picture, I did indeed get one lock out of many that went bad after a couple of days, but Schlage and Build.com made it right. No extra $ money out of my pocket. Good customer service in case something goes wrong.
Added bonus is that the Z-wave parameters for this lock are fully documented (I posted them previously).
More importantly, the WAF is very high. One of the best purchases I ever made. ;D
So the Schlage BE469NXCEN625 unit I have had firmware 5.6 and manufactured date 02/13/2013. I bought my unit only 2 months ago from Amazon on Dec 21, 2013. I guess it was old stock that the seller, “H2O Filter Pro” (Fulfilled by Amazon), was getting rid of.
I called Schlage, and they are sending me a brand new unit. The touch screen locking up problem was something which happened with units manufactured before August 2013. It is more than a firmware update, some components had to also be re-engineered according to Schlage.
Schlage was very helpful, but said because I have the Century Bright Chrome (CEN625) finish which is less common, it will take 3 weeks for delivery. They do not want the old unit back.