Should I skip them and just solder the wires instead?
Is the “gel” simply silicone, like a silicone outdoor wire nut? Could I just squeeze some silicone in there?
And what’s the point of the “gel” any way?
If I do use them, I’m assuming they slide in from the same (Larger) side before crimping? That was my original question, because they’re open on both sides. Just a larger opening on one side, which threw me off coming from the automotive world of butt connectors.
I ran into the same problem with my DSC. This is what I came up with for a solution.
I have 14 (planned) motions on my system, along with a few powered relays, 3 (planned) 4-wire smokes and 3 (planned) 4-wire CO detectors, so I ended up buying 4.
Mine still haven’t showed up yet as I ordered them last week, but I went down the same frustrating dead-end path you took trying to find them, and this is by far the best solution I have found. About the same height (according to dimensions) as the main board. When they show up I will snap a pic beside the main board so you can see what they look like. They are waiting at the post office for me and I will pick them up on Monday.
I ran into the same problem with my DSC. This is what I came up with for a solution.
I have 14 (planned) motions on my system, along with a few powered relays, 3 (planned) 4-wire smokes and 3 (planned) 4-wire CO detectors, so I ended up buying 4.
Mine still haven’t showed up yet as I ordered them last week, but I went down the same frustrating dead-end path you took trying to find them, and this is by far the best solution I have found. About the same height (according to dimensions) as the main board. When they show up I will snap a pic beside the main board so you can see what they look like. They are waiting at the post office for me and I will pick them up on Monday.[/quote]
Good God! I don’t know where you are but that said $15 shipping for one! Fortunately it’s only $2.x per for me. I’ll have to pick some of those up. Thanks a LOT for the tip Vodden. Good look’n out.
[quote=“S-F, post:81, topic:179989”]Well, damn. I already bought them.
Should I skip them and just solder the wires instead?
Is the “gel” simply silicone, like a silicone outdoor wire nut? Could I just squeeze some silicone in there?
And what’s the point of the “gel” any way?
If I do use them, I’m assuming they slide in from the same (Larger) side before crimping? That was my original question, because they’re open on both sides. Just a larger opening on one side, which threw me off coming from the automotive world of butt connectors.[/quote]
If you don’t have gel filled, just use the ones you got. Gels just give better moisture/oxidation protection.
The small opening is there so you can easily use your test probes. Wires go in the large end.
I like to run 4/22 to my sensors. It’s nice to have an extra pair sitting there if needed later.
Should I strip and or twist the wires? I have 22 AWG alarm wire.
Also I only have a regular stamped steel crimper. How exactly should I crimp them? I’m replacing an exterior door tomorrow so I get to put this all in action for the first time.
you don’t have to strip… I do it anyways. and it serves no purpose but to make me feel like its a better connection… But these are what they are made for,
I received my terminal bus units today and as promised, I am sharing a few pics.
I cut off the leads and will just use standard alarm wire to keep it looking sharp in the box. They came apart with the 2 center screws very easily.
You will notice that I am mounting on structured wiring panels to go into a Channel Vision structured wiring enclosure. Because my system is going to require 3-7Ah batteries, 3-zone expanders, an EVL-3, 2 polarity reversal modules, and a few relays to boot, I opted for one box to put it all in instead of several small ones.
My components from top-to-bottom, left-to-right are:
5108 zone expander, terminal bus, 5108 zone expander
2-PRM-4W polarity reversal module for CO and Smokes, 5108 zone expander, terminal bus
2-Elk Relays for CO and Smoke triggers, Terminal Bus, 5204 Supervised power module
EVL-3 Ethernet interface, 1864 main board.
I’m mounting all the PCB’s and terminal bus units on the plates today, will post a pic of what they look like in the box as soon as I’m done.
Wow that’s pretty nice looking. I’m going to have to tidy up my DSC can. Right now it’s a mess. Have you gotten the alarm all set up, programmed and playing nicely with your Vera?
An update on the door sensor.
I got one of those ball types that fit in the jamb on the hinge side. It is slick because it’s really unobtrusive but it the range is no good. It reads closed when the door is still opened 3-4", which blows in my book. It’s really a toss up between a fugly thing cut into your trim which is much more sensitive or one of these nice hidden things. I’m not sure what I’m going to do for the other two exterior doors.
What are other people’s thoughts on this subject?
The crimping was a breeze. Thanks for all of the information and helping instill confidence guys! I just ran a single 22/2 because the wire is run in a location I will always have access to.
I have most of the sensors (I’m buying in stages, so I don’t have every component yet, but at least one of every multiple) so I have successfully programmed and bench tested the setup and have it talking nicely with my Vera. I was a little concerned as the DSC Plug-in thread is really long and people had all sorts of problems, but by the time I got around to installing it all of the bugs must have gotten worked out, because it was a snap! I have every (planned) sensor already created and tested on the Devices tab of my Vera enabling me to start creating scenes with them before I actually had everything up and running. The final install will take place in June when I have other renovations scheduled.
[quote=“S-F, post:92, topic:179989”]I’m not sure what I’m going to do for the other two exterior doors.
What are other people’s thoughts on this subject?[/quote]
There is a recessed magnetic reed switch option as well (the wired ones are super cheap too), but I don’t think the right place to mount them is on the hinge side, as 4" on the latch side is barely a crack at the hinge. Either at the top of the door or somewhere along the bottom of the latch side is ideal. I have seen them in both places. There is a wireless option for these as well, so those might be the answer for your existing doors. You would require either a RFK series keypad or a wireless receiver module for them to communicate. If this is what you decide to do, remember that you must leave an 8 zone chunk set aside for only wireless (1-8, 9-16, 17-24, 25-32 etc.) and no wired zones can be in that chunk.
With the keypad I have only zones 1 - 32 can be wireless so when I finally get around to installing my expanders they will be zones 33 - 64. All of my interior doors and my windows will use wireless sensors.
I had forgotten about the magnetic jamb sensors. I didn’t get them because I didn’t want to have to make two holes. That’s probably what I’ll do for the next door.
It is a wired version and I think I paid $2.89CAD each for a bag of 10.
I bought it thru AARtech.ca, the only place in Canada that ships for free (as long as you buy $500 or more :P) but I see that www.homesecuritystore.com has a similar product BR-1012T for $3.95 ea.
I chose the screw terminal style so I didn’t have to make crimp connections inside the walls. That appears to be the only model homesecuritystore has with screw terminals.
If you are using screw terminals, bw sure to put a dab of contact cement on top of the screws after connecting. Vibrations can loosen screws over time and cause a bunch of sensor problems with your panel.
Without the help from all of you I’d still be running around turning lights off all the time like a mad harpie! Either that or I’d be poor from buying Z-Wave motions that give me headaches and a six figure bill for batteries annually.
Thank you for helping me build a home automation system of great magnitude.
If you are using screw terminals, bw sure to put a dab of contact cement on top of the screws after connecting. Vibrations can loosen screws over time and cause a bunch of sensor problems with your panel.[/quote]