Replace 3-way switches with GE or Leviton?

Other Devices & Integrations Lighting & Load Control
1

I’ve been lurking on this forum for a few weeks reading lots of different posts. I have a very simple use case. I just purchased a VeraLite and will be setting up one scene initially. This includes replacing two 3-way switches with some sort of ZWave-controlled dimmer. This will allow me to sit down in my DIY home theater and hit a button to dim the overhead “can” lighting, power on my Yamaha receiver and select the proper input. I also hope it can power up my projector at the same time.

I don’t believe I need the instant update or two way communication offered by the more expensive Leviton 3-way dimmer, but I’m unsure. I’ve thought about buying the GE 3-wire kit to try this out and maybe return it if I’m not satisfied. I also read about the Linear dimmers but it appears they suffer from false advertising. What do you guys recommend?

2

Which button do you plan to hit to initiate all this action?

If you plan to hit the dimmer switch to initiate all this, then you definitely need Instant Status. If you plan to use a remote or some other activator, then not so much.

3

[quote=“Z-Waver, post:2, topic:181426”]Which button do you plan to hit to initiate all this action?

If you plan to hit the dimmer switch to initiate all this, then you definitely need Instant Status. If you plan to use a remote or some other activator, then not so much.[/quote]

I currently plan to use my remote (android tablet or such) to initiate the scene I mentioned. I would replace the existing 3-ways with dimmers so people coming down to the basement can continue using the switches as they always have, but I can remotely control them with Vera. FYI, I currently have 8 cans on a single 3-way circuit and they’re incandescent. I’m thinking I could replace them with dimmable LEDs and use a Aeon micro-dimmer if that makes more sense (keep the existing 3-way switches in place). As I understand it, the micro-dimmer is only rated for 2.5 amps so it could not handle the existing 8 cans.

I also read about Linear switches supporting associations such that even if Vera is offline they can control the Aeon micro-dimmers, etc. I’m not sure I need that functionality, but it appears those Linear devices might be the better way to go over the cheapie GE 3-way product.

I want to avoid using on-wall switches or scene controllers to be honest. I like the idea of using an Android tablet in my home theater to control everything and use my phone or another tablet in other areas of the house should I expand my system.

I may be mistaken, but I think the on-wall scene controllers are not a step in the right direction when I think of home automation. :slight_smile:

4

I’ve been reading older threads and came across the ConnectedbyTCP set of dimmable LED bulbs. They require their own gateway ($67) but it appears I could individually dim each bulb on my 8-can 3-way circuit. This would be most advantageous for me since I had thought I’d need an electrician to help me split the cans into two sets of 4. Do folks generally like the ConnectedbyTCP products?

I was considering replacing the incandescant 65W BR30’s with Cree dimmable LEDs from Home Depot at a cost of $12ea. It appears I can pay a little more, pay for the gateway and get individually dimmable LEDs.

5

[quote=“brilong, post:4, topic:181426”]I’ve been reading older threads and came across the ConnectedbyTCP set of dimmable LED bulbs. They require their own gateway ($67) but it appears I could individually dim each bulb on my 8-can 3-way circuit. This would be most advantageous for me since I had thought I’d need an electrician to help me split the cans into two sets of 4. Do folks generally like the ConnectedbyTCP products?

I was considering replacing the incandescant 65W BR30’s with Cree dimmable LEDs from Home Depot at a cost of $12ea. It appears I can pay a little more, pay for the gateway and get individually dimmable LEDs.[/quote]

If you go this route and someone turns off the the lights at the switch, you have no way of turning them on unless you replace your switches with scene controllers (there are 1 button scene controllers). I could be mistaken, but I don’t think I am. It’s the same issue I have with the HUE bulbs.

6

[quote=“SirMeili, post:5, topic:181426”][quote=“brilong, post:4, topic:181426”]I’ve been reading older threads and came across the ConnectedbyTCP set of dimmable LED bulbs. They require their own gateway ($67) but it appears I could individually dim each bulb on my 8-can 3-way circuit. This would be most advantageous for me since I had thought I’d need an electrician to help me split the cans into two sets of 4. Do folks generally like the ConnectedbyTCP products?

I was considering replacing the incandescant 65W BR30’s with Cree dimmable LEDs from Home Depot at a cost of $12ea. It appears I can pay a little more, pay for the gateway and get individually dimmable LEDs.[/quote]

If you go this route and someone turns off the the lights at the switch, you have no way of turning them on unless you replace your switches with scene controllers (there are 1 button scene controllers). I could be mistaken, but I don’t think I am. It’s the same issue I have with the HUE bulbs.[/quote]

Makes sense. Thanks for the tip.

7

If you are using a remote, like your Android app, to activate your scenes then Instant Status is not important to this application.

It has been determined that the Linear dimmers do NOT support associations despite them advertising that functionality. The Linear dimmers do however utilize a neutral wire, which you would need if you use LED bulbs. The Linear dimmers work very well with the Cree bulbs that you mentioned.

The Aeon Labs micro dimmers are indeed 2.5 amp 300 watt max.

Since your 8 can lights will likely draw 480-520 watts, I would suggest going with the Linear WD1000Z-1 Wall Dimmer Switch, 1000W and the Linear WT00Z1 Scene controlling remote for 3-way(after setup these will work even when Vera is off), provided you’re sure you don’t need Instant Status. But first, check your wiring that you do have neutrals in the switch gang boxes because they are required by the Linears. With this setup you can also switch to LEDs at your leisure.

8

[quote=“Z-Waver, post:7, topic:181426”]If you are using a remote, like your Android app, to activate your scenes then Instant Status is not important to this application.

It has been determined that the Linear dimmers do NOT support associations despite them advertising that functionality. The Linear dimmers do however utilize a neutral wire, which you would need if you use LED bulbs. The Linear dimmers work very well with the Cree bulbs that you mentioned.

The Aeon Labs micro dimmers are indeed 2.5 amp 300 watt max.

Since your 8 can lights will likely draw 480-520 watts, I would suggest going with the Linear WD1000Z-1 Wall Dimmer Switch, 1000W and the Linear WT00Z1 Scene controlling remote for 3-way(after setup these will work even when Vera is off), provided you’re sure you don’t need Instant Status. But first, check your wiring that you do have neutrals in the switch gang boxes because they are required by the Linears. With this setup you can also switch to LEDs at your leisure.[/quote]

Thanks for the advice. I may get the lower-rating Linear dimmer and replace the incandescants with LEDs at the same time. :slight_smile: Home Depot has them 40% off for about $12 right now. I’ll verify the presence of a neutral where I need it before purchasing anything.

9

[quote=“brilong, post:8, topic:181426”][quote=“Z-Waver, post:7, topic:181426”]If you are using a remote, like your Android app, to activate your scenes then Instant Status is not important to this application.

It has been determined that the Linear dimmers do NOT support associations despite them advertising that functionality. The Linear dimmers do however utilize a neutral wire, which you would need if you use LED bulbs. The Linear dimmers work very well with the Cree bulbs that you mentioned.

The Aeon Labs micro dimmers are indeed 2.5 amp 300 watt max.

Since your 8 can lights will likely draw 480-520 watts, I would suggest going with the Linear WD1000Z-1 Wall Dimmer Switch, 1000W and the Linear WT00Z1 Scene controlling remote for 3-way(after setup these will work even when Vera is off), provided you’re sure you don’t need Instant Status. But first, check your wiring that you do have neutrals in the switch gang boxes because they are required by the Linears. With this setup you can also switch to LEDs at your leisure.[/quote]

Thanks for the advice. I may get the lower-rating Linear dimmer and replace the incandescants with LEDs at the same time. :slight_smile: Home Depot has them 40% off for about $12 right now. I’ll verify the presence of a neutral where I need it before purchasing anything.[/quote]

I use GE since I can pick them up locally at lowes. My local Home-depot also carries GE. So I use LED BR30 lights and GE has no problem as long as I have more then a few on the circuit. (only tried 5 and higher)

I haven’t found a need for 70.00 switches yet. I have over 60 switches in two houses with mostly GE. Any that needed to be instant status I changed them out after the fact and found another use for the GE ones.

Lowes Dimming GE is 39.99 and on/off is 34.99. 3 way on/off is 44.99. Online coupons can be found for 10.00 off 50.00 and I pay online pick up in my local store. Fast and easy for me.

As far as the individual light dimming. I have used MiLight. They have 1 or 2 different bulbs, don’t think they have a BR30 tho. I do think they have a can insert. I use them for RGBW LED accent lighting. Their system has a good plugin and HOMEWAVE on my Ipad takes care of turning on the master switch and dimming the controller (both in one normal looking dimmer switch on Homewave) or changing the color (from a color strip).

Only problem I see with a setup like Milight or probley the one your talking about is you can’t dim the bulbs from the switch on the wall as it would lower the power to the controllers. So you would have to have a ON/OFF switch on the wall then use only the app (milight has its own app also if you didn’t want to use vera) or a handheld remote.

The main controller which can control 4 zones is around 25-30.00 and downbulbs are 50.00. If you split the room in 2 zones on the can lights leaves you open for some LED accent lighting strips. Shop around not the cheapest but here you go.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12W-Smart-2-4G-RGBW-White-LED-Bulb-Downlight-WiFi-Controller-RF-Remote-Control-/360807848299?pt=US_Light_Bulbs&var=&hash=item5401d2d96b

Also watch the video here.