relay solution for landscape lighting

Hi, I’m looking to set up multiple z-wave relays for landscape lights.
I have several landscape transformers, and wish to have multiple lighting zones per transformer.
My current thinking is to on/off the transformer using an appliance module (leviton vrpa1), and then use 1 linear fs20z-1 relay device per zone.

This will mean a lot of individual relay devices. But I’d rather have a z-wave relay that can handle 2-4 relays per z-wave receiver. Anyone know of something that does this, for low voltage loads?

I see a few 2 relay z-wave devices, such as the enerwave zwm-rsm2 but they seem to assume the switched loads are 120VAC not 12VAC as I have coming out of the landscape transformer.

The closest I’ve seen is the Fortrezz mimo which has 2 low voltage relays, but this is still not available apparently.

Am I best off just using a set of fs20z-1’s?

I’m not aware of any Z-Wave solutions that wouldn’t require, what I regard to be, too many Z-Wave relays.

For something like you describe, I would look into using these SainSmart Web TCP/IP 10A Relay Remote Control Kit with Network Web Server 8 Channels Relay Ethernet Controller Remote Control Board + 8-CH Relay Module,. It should be trivial to have Vera make the necessary web(HTTP) requests to trigger the relays. You could use a TP-LINK TL-WR702N Wireless N150 Travel Router, Nano Size to WiFi enable this option.

I might also consider using a wireless Arduino gateway setup with the multi relay board. (see MySensors.org ).

Skipping the DIY build, I’d also look at the:
EZIO40 INSTEON 4 Output Relay Load Controller
or the
EZRain INSTEON / X10 Sprinkler Controller These two seem to be limited to 30 watts DC or 60 watts AC, per relay.

I need the same, but I need each relay to be able to handle 300watts 12-14v each (I can probably just put it on the 12v rail). Granted I used LEDs so 300w is only the “max” the transformer can push on that leg, but I figured better safe than sorry.

According to my math, 300w at 12v is 25amp (per leg on my 900w transformer). I really only want 1 of those legs to be controlled though as I am going to wire the kits playset with LED low voltage landscape lighting and since it only ever need to be on when the rest of the back yard landscape lighting is on, I don’t need the other 2 legs to be controlled (though I wouldn’t be opposed to doing that anyways)

@SirMeili - The Linear FS20Z-1 Z-Wave in Wall Fixture Module is a single relay dry contact module that can easily manage your single relay 300 watt DC requirements.

I don’t want to derail this thread, so please feel free to PM me instead of answering here. I see it says (in the manual), max 20amp, and then the “blue” wires are 24-277v. This would be a 12-14v system. Would I just hook the relay up to power and then feed the + from the transformer into the blue and then hook the lights up to the other blue?

POS from Transformer → Blue on FS20Z-1; secong Blue FS20Z-1 → lights
Neg from Transfomer → Lights

@SirMeili - Exactly

Thanks :slight_smile: I’m off to buy one… I don’t have the playset wired up yet, but it’s gonna probably be the last cool weekend here in FL for a while, so I might do that this weekend :smiley:

@bcc9, I’m gonna keep an eye on this thread because I wouldn’t really mind doign what you are doing, espeically in the front where I have only a 1 300w transformer. It would be nice to split it up a bit.

[quote=“Z-Waver, post:2, topic:186616”]I’m not aware of any Z-Wave solutions that wouldn’t require, what I regard to be, too many Z-Wave relays.

For something like you describe, I would look into using these SainSmart Web TCP/IP 10A Relay Remote Control Kit with Network Web Server 8 Channels Relay Ethernet Controller Remote Control Board + 8-CH Relay Module,. It should be trivial to have Vera make the necessary web(HTTP) requests to trigger the relays. You could use a TP-LINK TL-WR702N Wireless N150 Travel Router, Nano Size to WiFi enable this option.

I might also consider using a wireless Arduino gateway setup with the multi relay board. (see MySensors.org ).

Skipping the DIY build, I’d also look at the:
EZIO40 INSTEON 4 Output Relay Load Controller
or the
EZRain INSTEON / X10 Sprinkler Controller These two seem to be limited to 30 watts DC or 60 watts AC, per relay.[/quote]
Hmm, thanks for the pointers, however…
The reason I was trying to do this with z-wave was so that I’d have a turnkey DIY solution which I could then front-end with my control4 system. Since control4 has z-wave drivers, I can set up the control4 system to make the relays visible as control4 devices, thus providing a high WAF thru my existing control4 touchscreens.
With insteon, my understanding is that the control4 driver requires an obsolete insteon PLM and so it would not be a good idea to try and use this for a new setup.

[quote=“Z-Waver, post:4, topic:186616”]@SirMeili - The Linear FS20Z-1 Z-Wave in Wall Fixture Module is a single relay dry contact module that can easily manage your single relay 300 watt DC requirements.[/quote]Landscape lighting is normally AC not DC, but I agree the fs20z-1 easily handles a 300W landscape transformer. The fs20z-1 reports a rating of 20amps, but that’s at max voltage not 12V.

[quote=“SirMeili, post:5, topic:186616”]I see it says (in the manual), max 20amp, and then the “blue” wires are 24-277v. This would be a 12-14v system.[/quote]I noticed that discrepancy as well. The typical usage for this device is for a garage opener, where the fs20z-1 is triggering the low voltage opener button. This is <24V as well, so I don’t see why the specs claim 24V.
I suspect this is just a compliance issue as you really shouldn’t mix the low voltage wires into the same gang box as the line voltage. I plan on trying to separate the wires, either splicing the blue wires outside the gang box or using a low voltage divider.
Speaking of gang boxes, I think we need to use plastic as I loose a lot of z-wave signal going thru the metal landscape lighting enclosures…

Arudino with a relay board could handle this.

[quote=“bcc9”][quote=“SirMeili, post:5, topic:186616”]I see it says (in the manual), max 20amp, and then the “blue” wires are 24-277v. This would be a 12-14v system.[/quote]I noticed that discrepancy as well. The typical usage for this device is for a garage opener, where the fs20z-1 is triggering the low voltage opener button. This is <24V as well, so I don’t see why the specs claim 24V.
I suspect this is just a compliance issue as you really shouldn’t mix the low voltage wires into the same gang box as the line voltage. I plan on trying to separate the wires, either splicing the blue wires outside the gang box or using a low voltage divider.
Speaking of gang boxes, I think we need to use plastic as I loose a lot of z-wave signal going thru the metal landscape lighting enclosures…[/quote]
I successfully use some metal enclosures and the zwave works fine…however in this case I will likely get a bigger box and mount it next to the transformer and existing outlet box.

Mine are like the ones here:

[quote=“SirMeili, post:12, topic:186616”]Mine are like the ones here:

http://www.acehardware.com/family/index.jsp?categoryId=2632253[/quote]Which of the 108 items? :slight_smile:
I’m considering a plastic outdoor enclosure for the z-wave relays I could use by my pool area transformer.
(The rest of the relays will likely be indoors.)
I could always do this with control4 relays for 2X the money if z-wave is not cut out for this…

[quote=“bcc9”][quote=“SirMeili, post:12, topic:186616”]Mine are like the ones here:

http://www.acehardware.com/family/index.jsp?categoryId=2632253[/quote]Which of the 108 items? :slight_smile:
I’m considering a plastic outdoor enclosure for the z-wave relays I could use by my pool area transformer.
(The rest of the relays will likely be indoors.)
I could always do this with control4 relays for 2X the money if z-wave is not cut out for this…[/quote]
Oops…sorry… The top 3 midwest ones :grin:

[quote=“integlikewhoa, post:11, topic:186616”]Arudino with a relay board could handle this.[/quote]Something turnkey that will won’t break on house guests, that I can ultimately hand over to someone else? I’ll have failed if I have to periodically debug usb to serial I/O problems when trying to light the front path…

I had a need for a couple of landscape transformers out back wired separately, so I bought two Aeon in wall switches, then put them in a waterproof plastic box outside. I had an old outdoor rated extension cord and cut off one end to wire up and provide power to the switches. This way everything could be easily disassembled, fixed, or removed if needed. Its just plugged into a outlet on the outside of my house.

The water tight box is here:

The switches are here:

I got my switches much cheaper locally, but you get the idea. All of my lights are LED, so in all I’m only drawing about 50 watts if that.

katmai,
something simple like that could work for me too, if I bought 5 or so extra AC transformers to go with the 3 I’m planning to use. I have LED lighting too, but I’d need separate transformers to implement the separate zones if I was only switching at 120v. The pool area transformers would be extra expensive in order to be pool rated.

While a bit clunky, a set of fs20z-1s would still be cheaper and less bulky for so many zones.

I’m sorry…I missed that you needed that many separately wired zones. The other way would be cheaper for sure. I only had 2 zones not close together, so I was going to be using separate transformers anyway.