Questions about switch triggers

Yesterday I bought an on/off GE switch (from Lowes). I used it to replace a switchable power outlet because I was more interested in using the switch as a scene trigger than actually controlling an outlet.

My question is: do I actually have to toggle the switch to invoke the trigger?

Here’s an example: I have a scene that turns all my lights on in the evening to pleasant dim levels. But then I want to cook in the kitchen and get full brightness. I put a trigger on the outlet switch that occurs when it’s turned on.

The problem occurs when the outlet switch is already on. Is there a way to use the pressing of the “on” side of the switch as a trigger? Or do I actually have to toggle the switch’s state to make the trigger happen?

Thanks!

You will have to toggle the light switch.

Also what type of switch did you get ? If it’s designed for incandescent lamps than you must have an incandescent lamp installed or other resistive load, minimally 10 Watts. (If you had to hook up a black, white, and green wire you are OK)

For a switched power receptacle you could have used a ZWave Socket and had a “Scene Controller Switch” that does not directly control the wall plug … but can send events back to your Vera. They could act independently. Then you can have an action based on the Scene Controller changing state.

Thanks for the response. It’s okay, I’ll just use the switch somewhere else. The power receptacle wouldn’t be any use to me because I don’t actually care about the outlet, just the switch. In fact, I’d rather not have any switched outlets in my entire home, but there’s not much I can do about that. I still have all these switches (one in almost every room!).

Thanks again for your response.

I replaced all my switches that controlled outlets with scene controllers. Some outlets were replaced with Z-Wave receptacles, and others were converted to regular outlets. That gives me far more flexibilty.

Most friends are like “crap…what button do I press?” when they see a 4-button controller…but the 1- or 2-button controllers are easier to explain.

[quote=“PurdueGuy, post:4, topic:173448”]I replaced all my switches that controlled outlets with scene controllers. Some outlets were replaced with Z-Wave receptacles, and others were converted to regular outlets. That gives me far more flexibilty.

Most friends are like “crap…what button do I press?” when they see a 4-button controller…but the 1- or 2-button controllers are easier to explain.[/quote]
What scene controllers are you using?

[quote=“Dignan17, post:5, topic:173448”]What scene controllers are you using?[/quote]I have a combination of Leviton scene/zone controllers, and some Monster (older generation Leviton) controllers.

I have:
4 VRCZ4s (one with a local switch)
1 VRCS4
3 Monster Illuminessence (really older Vizia RF controllers)

I have a question about scene controllers. How do these get wired? Would I put this where I have outlet switches? Does the outlet still get switched or is it just always on now (which would be fine with me)? What if I don’t have a switched outlet? Does this simply need a wider box in the wall and a single wire run to the neutral?

Mostly I replaced regular on/off switches with controllers (with no switch), and then replaced the outlet the switch controlled with a Z-Wave receptacle.
You can also replace the switch with a controller with a switch, and leave the outlet controlled by the new “switch” (really a controller with an embedded switch).

If you aren’t replacing a switch, you can just make the box wider (add a gang), and then wire it up to power (hot and neutral).

Ah, I think I understand. But I could abandon the whole “switched outlet” thing entirely if I want, right? Basically, I think switched outlets are dumb and I don’t want them. Then again, maybe I’d feel differently if I didn’t have ZWave, but whatever :slight_smile: I’d much rather use that switch for a controller.

So I need hot and neutral? Is it okay to share the hot line with another switch?

I agree…I did away with regular switched outlets, they are all Z-Wave now.

And you can share hot/neutral with another switch, as long as it’s really hot and neutral! (Some friends were putting in z-wave switches and found the previous electrician/owner/however ran hot/neutral to the light first, then the switch, so they didn’t actually have hot/neutral!! luckily, they could use a dimmer instead and it was fine.)

Just be sure you don’t exceed the circuit limits, wire nuts in box, etc, etc. I am no electrician!