I’ve wired several of the old Jasco/GE 3-way switches in the past, and decided to try the Linear WD500/WT00Z combo. Got the WD500s working just fine and made the mistake of trying to follow the Linear instructions to set up the WT00Z, which didn’t work at all. The WD500s are wired into the primary 3 way switch gang box with the hot line, and the WT00Z in the secondary box on the 3-way switch. So there is no power to the secondary unless the master switch is in the on position. Since the WT00Z is not controlling load and I was under the impression that the z-wave radio would be powered by the neutral I didn’t think this would be an issue. After wiring the WT00Z with the common/load and black from the switch wired together, neutral to neutral, and ground to ground. the switch only functioned if the light was switched to the on position from the master.
Included on z-wave network fine, was able to get the association working, and would control off, but not on. I suspected this was due to the switch not having continual power on the black. So I ran power from the first junction box to the 2nd by connected the traveler to the line in box #1 and sure enough, the WT00Z switch functioned as expected with the black wired to the traveler, turning the lights on and off via z-wave transmissions. But that gave me two hots in the same junction box when the lights were in the on position (traveler with continuous power, and common). The switch (well switches, the secondary box is a 2-gang, both of which are the secondary in separate 3 way switches on different circuits) began to get warm (not super hot) and this was more to test the theory anyway, which would seem the WT00Z needs main power from the line. So I disconnected the WT00Zs
Anyone else experienced this or had any luck getting these to work on a 3-way switch?
When you say that the WT00Z only has power when the main is turned on, it indicates that you’ve got the black(WT00Z) connected to the load side of the main switch, when it should be connected to the line side.
Actually, there is only power to the gang box with the WT00Z if the main switch is in the on position, period. From what I can tell, the original 3-way switches were wired similar to this method: http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infelectrical/inf3way.html
None of the wires are hot in the secondary box if the primary switch is off. This is true for both of the circuits in that secondary 2-gang box. Also, in the scenario from the diagram you attached, what happens to the load wire in the secondary?
The diagram you provided is one of the most common methods to wire a 3-way switch. Your load (to the light) exits from the secondary box. From the powered box to the secondary box you have three wires: black, white, and red. For all intents and purposes the red and black are both travelers. Connect the load of your switch to the black wire going to the secondary switch. Connect the other end to the load for the light. Now the light will work, but the WT won’t have power. So, take the red wire and connect it to the incoming line in the main box (you’ll three or four wires twisted together here). In the secondary box, use the red wire to power the LT. You may want to label it or put a note in the boxes to save the next person some time.
Thanks guys. The traveler running power to the secondary was how I had it previously, but was concerned due to the heat being generated in the second gang box. I’ll give it another shot this weekend.
Look at the diagram again. The Red traveler is not “running power” in the sense of being a Line wire, it is the Load wire. It should have voltage only when the dimmer is On.
The diagram shows the Black Line and the Black from the Traveler bundle connected together. These are Line for both switches. Likewise Neutrals are all connected together.
Regarding heat. It is not abnormal for there to be a very slight heat, just above ambient temperature, with Z-Wave switches. This is due to the ~1watt that he Z-Wave radio is always consuming. But, if the switch is in anyway hot, more than ~5 degrees above ambient temperature, there is a problem. These switches should not get hot and any increased temperature is usually almost imperceptible.
Yep, got it. I was referring to paj’s earlier suggestion regarding the traveler as that was how I tested it previously. Will try the wiring per your 2nd diagram this weekend.
Wasn’t able to get to these this past weekend, but got the switches up and running based on the last diagram from z-waver. Thanks guys! Just FYI, there is still some heat (minimal but perceptible) coming from the WT00Z switches. The 2 gang box where I have both of these happen to be the only two of the WT00Z switches I have installed. None of my other switches (mostly GE/Jasco) including the WD500 switches these are paired with, or the couple other WD500 switches that are not a 3-way configuration seem to be giving off any additional heat.
Just to complement, the traveler could be use and labeled as neutral for boxes with no neutral line for the wt00z1. That is hooking up to neutral the traveler line at the WD500z side and send neutral to wt00z1. That is what I did.
Thanks!
I don’t know how the wiring in my house passed inspection! I set out to install a WT00Z-1 along with a WS15Z-1 and when i took the old switches out - OMG - nothing but a mess of wires back there! I expected to see a red wire but there is none; it also looks like there is a WHITE wire connected to one of the switch terminals but i can’t be sure because they didn’t even cover the box when the walls were painted so some of the wires have paint on them.
To top it all off, the switches control 2 lights (both on/off at the same time) so who knows how that is wired.
With my tester i couldn’t even tell which is the primary box where the feed (hot) come-in; it lights up like an xmas tree just getting it close to the box much less being able to distinguish exactly which wire had power.
Pretty typical. When the electrical rough inspection was conducted, the drywall was not even up, and the conductors would have been cut to length and sitting in the boxes. At the final inspection, the boxes were covered with devices and cover plates. In the middle, drywall was hung and painted, and electricians would have installed the devices. The messes are pretty typical.
Thinking out loud; I think i figured-out the wiring, pretty straight forward but not the “right” colors. There is a black HOT (line) in one box and a black (load) wire going up to the light in the other box. The travelers though, are black and WHITE (not red). I know they go from one box to the next because i tested continuity on one side while the wires were twisted (connected) together on the other side; also tested with a tone generator.
So i know i need to use one of those travelers (most likely the black wire) to extend power (line) into the other box where the load wire is; and then hook everything up.
I’m going to start with the main switch (WD500Z-1) BUT I WONDER: Should the switch work to turn the light on/off once connected? even before including it in Vera or having to associated with the companion switch (WT00Z-1)?? ???
Yes. The WD50000Z-1 will operate the light even when not Included to the Z-Wave Network.
The WT00Z-1 has an LED indicator that will light when power has been applied. However, this switch will seem to do nothing until it has been Included into the Z-Wave network and associated with another Z-Wave device, or used to activate a scene on Vera.
Just my luck! Looks like i have a bad switch >:( After connecting everything, the switch does not turn the light on/off. I know the wiring is correct because i had touched the re-purposed traveler (now has power) to the load wire and the light came on.
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