Outdoor Outlet

I am looking to install a new receptacle outside on my porch. I would love for this outlet to be zwave, but am unsure how to proceed because I don’t see any zwave GFCI outlets on the market. The outlet will not be controlled by a switch, so using a zwave switch to control the outlet isn’t an option.

I see that there are some outdoor modules (GE 45604), but this wouldn’t be as aesthetically pleasing. What are my options?

Thanks for your input.

I’m not an electrician but I ran into the same issue you have. I ended up using GE45604’s plugged into GFI outlets as I was not able to find any outlets rated for outside use.

You may be able to get away using an inside one using a good quality cover if it’s eg on a covered porch but I’m not sure if the electronics will stand up to it or if it’s even up to code.

I had an electrician install one of the GE outlets outside in a covered receptical mount. He said wouldn’t be an issue. I’ve had it running a mosquito misting sysem for two months without any problems. We’ve had two major storms here since it was installed. No problems.

You can also mount a standalone no outlets (or outlet type) GFCI upstream of the z-wave outlet that feeds your z-wave, giving it GFCI protection if it should have a ground fault. I have a circuit that comes into my garage/workshop and goes directly into a covered standalone GFCI, then everything gets fed off of that, that has been working well for me the last few years.

This is what I ended up doing. Thanks for everyone’s feedback.

Does anyone know of any issues with temperature tolerance (high or low) with Z-Wave outlets/switches?

My Intermatic switches are labeled 32F-104F. I have 3 in my attic/s that are routinely heat-soaked for long periods at 95F and up with no ill effects. I’d be slightly surprised if they actually didn’t work between around 5F-32F. I’ll probably find out this upcoming winter, by then I’ll have a few in my garage.

I have been using two GE 45604 switches outside for almost a year now. One controls a chain of LEDs that light up my back patio. The other controls my fountain. Our climate is wet and relatively mild. I can’t give you any good data on too cold or too hot. But the GE 45604s survive the constant drizzle during our winter rather well.

I have a GFCI breaker installed for the outdoor outlets at my house to solve the ground fault issue.

I looked for environmental data and couldn’t find any. The GE 45605 I am using outside has been subjected to temperatures over 100 °F on several days and hasn’t exhibited any issues. Time will tell on the cold end of the °F scale. I am happy with it so far.

Time will tell on the cold end of the °F scale. I am happy with it so far.[/quote]

This GE outlet I discussed in this thread appears to have ‘passed on’. Vera can no longer control the outlet, I cant exclude/include it and the LED no longer lights when the manual button is pressed. RIP GE 45605.

I have another one (outside) that is still working.

The ones I have in the outbuilding still work. Probably in the 0-100F range.

I replaced the outlet with another GE 45605, and it has been working fine through the winter.

I used a standard cooper zwave outlet on my covered porch in the Midwest. It lasted about a year through snow and rain (covered by both the porch and an outlet cover), but it has now stopped working. I’m going to put in a regular outdoor outlet and use a GE 45604 to control Christmas lights. If you’re in a moderate climate go ahead and try standard zwave receptacles. Otherwise it seems wise to stick with the outdoor plugin module.

I don’t mean to Hijack but I’ve been thinking of how to control my pool and landscape lights. Thinking about getting Linear FS20Z-1 (which I’m using for my gate inside a weather sealed box) and put it in a weather proof project box drill a couple holes to run the wires in and silicon all the holes.

This might be the way to go cause looking at the outdoor plug, it’s sealed but you still have the plugs exposed over time, the outlet will probably get corroded.

The proper way is to have a pig tail instead of a socket.

Run the wires out the bottom. Seal all the wires but drill a couple of small drain holes on the bottom of that box. The seals around the lids of those boxes (I assume carlon watertight) deteriorate and will eventually let water in. If you don’t put drain holes in it, eventually it will fill up with water. I had an EnOcean relay in one of those to control my dock lights and the sprinkler nearby filled up the box in just one year. Bye-bye $250 relay. Funny it didn’t short out it or even make the GFCI trip. It just corroded so badly that when I opened the box to investigate about a cup of rusty water came out and the top of the seal was brittle. I suppose if the water level in the box made it to the ground it would have popped it. Putting a couple of holes in the bottom of the box with a 1/16" drill bit fixed the issue outright.