Just bought a vera light and am just beginning to purchase my Z-wave items. However, little confused on where to begin with light switches. My house is full incandescent lighting. My living room (and other rooms) have multiple wall switches to control the same light. Does this mean I need a 3 way switch? Also, it appears not all dimmer switches are created equal. What do I need to watch out for to make sure the dimmer is compatible with incandescent? Any recommended switches for my situation?
I would begin with single On/Off switches. They are straightforward installation and will allow you to learn more about your Vera.
Single dimmer switches would be the next logic step. Any of the available dimmers will work with incandescent loads. But, you do need to watch the total maximum wattage, most Z-Wave dimmers have a maximum load of around 600 watts.
While almost all dimmers can dim incandescent bulbs, many dimmers have issues with LED bulbs. Most of the issues, with LEDs, can be avoided if the dimmer utilizes a neutral wire. If you plan to later upgrade to LED bulbs, consider dimmers that utilize a neutral wire.
Lights controlled by two switches are called 3-way circuits, three switches would be called a 4-way circuit. With multi-way Z-wave switches there is usually a master and then a number of auxiliary/remote/salve switches. Which slave switch is required will depend on the specific master that you choose.
These rooms are controlled by two switches, which I assume is why I’ll need a 3-way circuit switch. I do not intend on replacing both switches. However, you mention for me to start with single on/off switch. Is this incorrect? Would a single switch even work in a room with multi-switches?
Side note, why do I have to go through a 4 step verification process with every single post? It has taken me 2+ times to complete correctly to make a post! I understand the spam protection, but isn’t this a little overkill? When I originally made this post, it took nearly 24 hours for a moderator to approve the posting!
These rooms are controlled by two switches, which I assume is why I’ll need a 3-way circuit switch. I do not intend on replacing both switches. However, you mention for me to start with single on/off switch. Is this incorrect? Would a single switch even work in a room with multi-switches?[/quote]
In rooms with 3-way switches you will need to replace both switches at the same time. 3-way (or more) Zwave switches are designed to work as a set consisting of one “master” switch (which also handles the Zwave communication) and one or more “slave” switches designed specifically for the make/model of “master” you are using, but still use the existing wiring to switch the master. The existing switches cannot be used as “slave” switches.
In rooms with 3-way switches you will need to replace both switches at the same time. 3-way (or more) Zwave switches are designed to work as a set consisting of one "master" switch (which also handles the Zwave communication) and one or more "slave" switches designed specifically for the make/model of "master" you are using, but still use the existing wiring to switch the master. The existing switches cannot be used as "slave" switches.
Interesting. No wonder people say Zwave is an expensive upgrade! So if I understand correctly, in my room that has 2 switches that I would like to rum z-wave dimming capability, I will need something such as the following:
Are there any other recommendations? I haven’t read the best reviews about the GE zwave light switches.
Again… annoyed with the verification process!
I have several of those kits. They work for me. I buy them at lowes. It sounds like it might be a bit difficult for you to wire. Its not going to be as simple as un hook old switch and install new one. As suggested earlier you are starting out with a harder to install and setup type switch. His recommendation to start out with single on/off switches in another room sounds like a great plan.
We are all here to help you but dont want you throwing switches out the window in frustration on your very first install.
We like to save that for the 3rd install. Lol
[quote=“integlikewhoa, post:6, topic:184107”]I have several of those kits. They work for me. I buy them at lowes. It sounds like it might be a bit difficult for you to wire. Its not going to be as simple as un hook old switch and install new one. As suggested earlier you are starting out with a harder to install and setup type switch. His recommendation to start out with single on/off switches in another room sounds like a great plan.
We are all here to help you but dont want you throwing switches out the window in frustration on your very first install.
We like to save that for the 3rd install. Lol[/quote]
I appreciate your help! Maybe I’m missing something, but according to this video, it does look to be a pretty straight forward plug and play install: GE Z-Wave - 3 way dimmer kit - YouTube
Since replacing all switches is going to be expensive up front, I plan to slowly replace them overtime - beginning with the most important ones first.
Are there any substitutes to GE 3-wave dimmer kits? I have found Linear, which appears to have better reviews, but for some reason their 3 way dimmer switch is only one included switch. I thought I had to replace both the master and slave switches for this to work?
If you are referring to the Linear “WT00Z-1 Z-Wave 3-way in wall dimmer switch” - this is a “virtual switch”. It does not control the load directly. Instead, you can use one or more of these “virtual switches” to either:
(a) control (via Vera) an associated Z-Wave switch/dimmer module which the actual load is connected to
(b) communicate with a load-bearing switch like the Linear WD500Z-1
My suggestion is that you only use a “virtual switch” if there is no existing 3-way switch wiring in place. With use of “real” rather than “virtual” switches, your light switches will continue to work properly if for some reason your Z-Wave controller or network ceases to function.
3-way Z-Wave dimmer switches are also manufactured by Cooper and Leviton.
I have a different take on it. Just opinion based on my experience thus far.
The Linear WT00Z is a zone controller that does not require any 3-way wiring. No red traveler and no direct connection to the light (load). Simply a hot (line) and neutral are connected to it. To get it to operate as a 3-way switch you simply associate it to another switch. This means that you can have a 3 way where there wasn’t any 3-way in the past. This can be done with up to 4 other switches to make it a 5 way.
Don’t like the fact that you have to run up the stairs to turn out that light that constantly gets left on in the hallway. Poke a switch into the a more convenient box, associate it with the master switch, associate the master with it, and presto. Once the association is done Vera does not control this communication it is done between the switches. Vera only tells each of the switches who they should talk to. Hence, the association works whether Vera is working or not. The linear switches are sold separately because they operate standalone.
There are others that make similar devices like the Cooper RF9542 and Leviton zone controllers. I have no experience with other manufacturers but there are quite a few that operate like this. Several of which will control several others from a single gang in the box.
The GE/Jasco switch you are referring to requires the red traveler as well as the Leviton VPR00R. These sends their signal to the master switch through this wire and will only work with their matching master switch counterparts. The location where you place these are fixed to the available 3-way wiring in your wall. Again there are many manufacturers the use this configuration but it seems you always have to use a slave that is designed to work with its master as the communication between the two devices is proprietary.
Maybe you will and get lucky but that’s highly unlikely. Either way we will be here to help with wiring as long as you promise to not shock yourself on our watch.
Few things. 3 way wiring is not the same in every home. The main power can come in on one of the switch boxes or threw the light.
Do you have neutrals for the AUX switches? Even if the master dimmer doesn’t need it the AUX will need a neutral line. Because of this the switch wiring is not the same as a non z-wave switch. Wires will not just move to the same place on the new switch and your done, I can guarantee that. You will need to know some simple or basic principles to over come this installation. Not that you can’t learn fairly quickly but since the first post was asking questions about and not knowing what a 3-way or 4-way switch was, I’m gonna assume that this is going to be a bit more then just an easy task.
Even if we are going to help you wire, we need to know some info like being able to show us where the hot and neutral comes in draw us a basic diagram.
Google 3 way wiring diagrams to see at least 3 or more different ways to wire a 3 way switch and maybe you can see which one your house uses. And not every room in your house has to be wired the same either, but same installer usually follows a pattern.