[quote=“parkerc, post:4, topic:173862”]Not quite what you need, but i know the Fibaro relays allow you to power them from 24 VDC
Are you able to use any voltage converters ?[/quote]
Thanks. I’ll keep that in mind.
If not 12V, Are there any battery-powered devices that will pulse a contact (essentially a battery powered Z-Wave relay)? I’m trying to simulate a momentary button press.
I was originally thinking about using a thermostat (2Gig), but they are on or off, not pulse… Unless I can scene it to turn on then off immediately?
[quote=“snovvman, post:5, topic:173862”][quote=“parkerc, post:4, topic:173862”]Not quite what you need, but i know the Fibaro relays allow you to power them from 24 VDC
Are you able to use any voltage converters ?[/quote]
Thanks. I’ll keep that in mind.
If not 12V, Are there any battery-powered devices that will pulse a contact (essentially a battery powered Z-Wave relay)? I’m trying to simulate a momentary button press.
I was originally thinking about using a thermostat (2Gig), but they are on or off, not pulse… Unless I can scene it to turn on then off immediately?[/quote]
My garage door solution may work for you check my two adjoining posts in this thread http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php?topic=4773.msg79506.msg#79506
I think the jackpot solution is along the lines of what I’m looking for. I can use a donor module and turn it into a 12V control. I suppose I just need to make a scene that turns a device on and off immediately to simulate a temporary switch.
I can only use a DVM, solder, etc. and I am not nearly an EE. So I have some novice questions about modifying a module: I know many ICs work off of 5 volts. The donor modules, I presume, convert the 120V AC to 5V DC to operate the circuits while the 120V AC is switched by relays to power the appliances, etc.
Is 12V also used in these circuits? Is there an easy way for me to bypass the AC to DC section and simply connect a 12V power supply to operate the module?
[quote=“snovvman, post:10, topic:173862”]I think the jackpot solution is along the lines of what I’m looking for. I can use a donor module and turn it into a 12V control. I suppose I just need to make a scene that turns a device on and off immediately to simulate a temporary switch.
I can only use a DVM, solder, etc. and I am not nearly an EE. So I have some novice questions about modifying a module: I know many ICs work off of 5 volts. The donor modules, I presume, convert the 120V AC to 5V DC to operate the circuits while the 120V AC is switched by relays to power the appliances, etc.
Is 12V also used in these circuits? Is there an easy way for me to bypass the AC to DC section and simply connect a 12V power supply to operate the module?
Thanks again![/quote]
Just wondering if you read my link as my solution of pluging a 12v power supply into a zwave receptable seems a alot easier solution…also if you’re planing on adding a door/window sensor…the garage door plugin does the momentary switching without scenes/logic required.
Btw pity these aren’t available in US freq. http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php/topic,10951.0.html
Another option you might consider is the Evolve LFM-20 Fixture Module.
It’s an (albeit kind of quirky) relay-based Z-Wave switch for independent control of external devices.
I’ve successfully used it in 12V, 24V and 48V applications; can be done in a variety of ways, but it does have an element of quirk in how it responds to “include” and “exclude” commands.
-J
[quote=“snovvman, post:1, topic:173862”]Does one exist? I have Vera set up and I would like to use a device that is 12 volt powered to open/close a low-powered circuit.
While I’m asking, does there exist a weather-resistant door sensor (so I can put it on an outside gate and know when it’s open or closed)?
I just put into place something I wired up several months ago as a garage door solution. I have four LFM-20 modules I’m not using, but before I had them, I wired up this very simple device…
I took a cordless phone power supply (let’s say, 12VDC) and wired it to the coil of an automotive relay. The NO contacts, ultimately, were wired into the garage door opener button. I then plugged the power supply into a normal appliance module. When the appliance module goes on, the power supply powers the coil, and the NO contacts close.
This is a really simple approach, very dependable, and could be a way for you to address whatever you’re trying to do.
[quote=“DeltaNu1142, post:14, topic:173862”]I just put into place something I wired up several months ago as a garage door solution. I have four LFM-20 modules I’m not using, but before I had them, I wired up this very simple device…
I took a cordless phone power supply (let’s say, 12VDC) and wired it to the coil of an automotive relay. The NO contacts, ultimately, were wired into the garage door opener button. I then plugged the power supply into a normal appliance module. When the appliance module goes on, the power supply powers the coil, and the NO contacts close.
This is a really simple approach, very dependable, and could be a way for you to address whatever you’re trying to do.[/quote]
Yep this is basically the same as what I have done…as linked to above.