Okay, I am stumped. I have a Linear WS15Z-1 switch I am trying to install; I put it in, and included it, but when I try to turn it on, it sounds like a very fast on/off/on/off/on/off (continuous until I switch it off), and the lights flicker like a strobe light when I turn it on… Anyone have any ideas?
What type of load is it? My first thought is that the problem is that it is wired incorrectly. The second thought is a bad switch.
I tried another switch, and same results… I think it is wired correctly- I was able to include it and turn it on and off though the z-wave commands, and the LED I the switch is on when the switch is off, and the LED turns off when I turn the switch on…
Are you saying that the switch and light operate properly when controlled via Z-Wave, but misbehave when operated by pressing the paddle on the switch?
You tried another WS15Z-1 wired into the same circuit and it behaved in the same way?
Is there only a single switch in this circuit, or are there other switches to control this light?
Have you tried excluding the switch and then re-including it? This resets the switch and will eliminate any scenes or triggers that may be acting on the switch.
I’m still thinking improper wiring.
All right- I gave up for a few days, because we had family come I to town, but I re-approached it tonight. I wondered if there was something with the wiring at that spot, so I tried another switch plate area in the house- same result; then I realized that these two spots are wired with 20 amp breakers! I don’t have any 15 amp breakers here, but I’m thinking that is the issue. I’ll post again after the breaker swap.
The breaker should make no difference in this case, despite the switch only being rated for 15 amps. All that should happen is that the switch would burn up before the breaker pops if the load goes up to between 16 and 20 amps.
But, is your load even approaching 15 amps? That would be 1800 watts, or 24 75 watt lights. Do you have nearly that many on the switch?
[quote=“Z-Waver, post:4, topic:177673”]Is there only a single switch in this circuit, or are there other switches to control this light?
Have you tried excluding the switch and then re-including it? This resets the switch and will eliminate any scenes or triggers that may be acting on the switch.
I’m still thinking improper wiring.[/quote]
The 2 switches I’ve attempted to replace are:
1- the switch to control outlets in the eaves- right now, there is a grand total of 7 strings of Christmas lights plugged into them.
2- the switch to control the three exterior light bulbs outside my garage.
I haven’t gotten any time to do more investigating, as I’ve had to work some extra hours at work.
Okay… I know of the limit for uploading files, so I created a post here:
http://wilsonhomeworxissues.blogspot.com/
I have emailed the linear company tech support, but they haven’t responded to my email (from the same day I originally posted this question).
I’ve posted a few questions twice and you still avoid answered them, so it’s rather difficult/exasperating to assist you.
Looking at your picture, attached below:
It appears that you have the Blue AND White from the switch attached to each other AND a White jumper going to a pair of Blacks from the wall(probably line). Is my understanding of the picture correct? If so, the switch is wired completely wrong. Where did you get the idea to do it that way?
First, positively identify the wires in the wall. Which is Line(hot) and which is Load(light).
As diagrammed in the manual.
Linear ===== Wall
Black ===== Black(Line) (probably bundle).
Blue ===== Black(Load) (1 wire only. Goes to light).
White ==== White bundle.
This might be different if it is a 3-way circuit(other switches controlling the same light. One of the questions I’ve asked before.)
Pictures are often helpful, but in the future, it’s more important for us to clearly see the wires in the back of the switch and where they connect to.
First of all, I’d like to thank Z-Waver for his patience with my (and sooooo many others’ here on the forum) n00b-ness, and especially my awkward questions/answers.
It’s been a while since I wired my last switches, and I had to call the electrician that wired my house because there was some seriously strange wiring in the spots I put my switches. He was embarrassed because the wiring was so strange. He claimed that one of the newer guys on his crew wired the light, then realized they had put it in the wrong spot, then moved it (making the wires too short by a couple of feet), so he just spliced a bunch of random wires that were laying around to get the right length, so I had multiple colors of wire (red, green, black, white) that were spliced together. I remembered that I had to wire them ?wrong? to the diagram, but I got them working.
I pulled out my tester and got the wires re-identified (something I should?ve done in the first place; I did a cursory check at the beginning, but it turns out I must have identified something incorrectly). It?s working now, and I?ve already added four other on/off switches and two dimmers.
I hope to get to the point I can actually contribute more and help others, rather than just asking questions.
So far, I?ve installed:
4 dimmers
6 on/off switches
3 outlets
1 deadbolt (Yale keypad)
1 thermostat
My next goal is to integrate my alarm system. I am about to order the Eyez-on adapter so that I can integrate my DSC alarm system that I installed while the house was being built (every door and window has a sensor, and I have 6 motion detectors and 6 glassbreak sensors). I’ll be pouring over the posts in that part of the forum pretty soon.
Thanks again for all your help!!
You are welcome for the help and I’m glad you got it working. There’s no need to be sorry for questions of any level noob or otherwise. Questions is what the forum is for.
Hi All,
I am having the same issue reported above, but with the difference that I don?t have more wires in the wall. I mean, In the wall where the switch is installed there is only TWO wires attached to a normal switch, no ground, no hot, no line. It is only a basic on/off switch in a 110V Circuit that opens or close a contact.
Below see the “electrical” diagram of what I have in my house.
How I can Install the WS15Z?
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The WS15Z can only operate when it has a Line, Load, and Neutral wire.
All switches, including the WS15Z, should also have a ground wire.
From your description, you have a Line and a Load attached to your existing switch, but I cannot be sure based on the limited information. You’ll need better determine/describe how the circuit is wired.
It is common(in the U.S.) to have a neutral bundle buried in the back of the gang box, look again.
The Leviton VRI06-1LZ 600W Incandescent Scene Capable Dimmer can work in two wire, Line and Load, installations(ground is still required).
Thanks for your reply z-waver.
I am located in Colombia and our electrical installations are made pretty unsafe and without any electrica standard.
What I have in my house is two wires that close/open a circuit and turn on/off a light. No ground installed.
Just immagine to plug two wires in an outlet (using no ground) and in the other end of the wires a bulb. One of these two wires is cutted and an on/off switch is installed there completing the circuit.
I just purchased and in the process of installing my first WS15Z-1 wall switch and running into problems. . I get the led to come on but when I push power on, the 3 ceiling
lights that this switch controls does not come on which makes me think I may
have wiring incorrect. Especially not understanding the wiring to the same line (neutral) comment in the manual.
Internal wiring
2 black
1 red
1 green
WS15Z
1 black
1 white
1 blue
1 green
My wiring configuration
Black to black
Black to white
Red to blue
Green to green
You have wired it incorrectly.
1. Positively identify the function of all wires in your circuit. You cannot assume function based on color. This may require a voltage detector or multimeter, there is a high danger of electric shock.
- From the picture, it appears that there are white(Neutral) wires bundled int the back of the gang box. If I am correct about this, then you need to add the white from the switch to that bundle.
My thoughts are that the red wire indicates that this might be a three way circuit where there is a second switch controlling the light. If not, then the red is probably not used. If it is, then everything changes. Continuing my assumption you would have:
Black to Black(Line)
Blue to Black(Load)
White to White(s)(Neutral)
See #1 above! If you can’t figure it out, get an electrician.
If you have a 3-way circuit, you must replace the second switch as well. See the below diagram. (LRM-AS == WS15Z-1)
Thank you and I will take your advice on electrician… this one is too complicated for my lack of experience.