Hi I just got a Liftmaster Garage Door Opener Model # 8360 and would like to be able to open it with my Mi Casa Verde Vera Lite controler? Is there a way?
Yes, there are multiple threads that discuss integrating your garage door into Vera. If you do a search you’ll find them. One option is to buy a zwave relay like the one made by evolve and hook the two blue wires into the same contacts as the door opener. You would than use a door sensor to show if the door is open or closed. There is a plugin that will allow you to integrate both of them.
- Garrett
Ok i have tried to hook my Evolive LFM-20 fixture Module up to my liftmaster Garage Door Opener and still no luck. seems the door operner is all wireless. When I hood the LFM to where the opener switch is its telling me wired wrong on the switch and the LFM dont open the door, Am I hooking the LFM in the right spot? Where the switch is wired to? I think all the switches is wireless and the wire that is hooked to the door operner is just for the back light.
Thanks
Steve-0 !
I too am having this same issue with a newer unit. What did you find out over the past year? Starting a new thread does not seem appropriate for a common issue unsolved.
FYI- Liftmaster (Professional) is the same motor/controller as chamberlain (DIY). Differences = The pro version has one long bar instead of sections, and a better warranty.
Did you hack a wireless remote, get the MyQ, hack the motor’s board, ???
I too have Liftmaster MH5011E
This is more of a commercial door opener for Roller Doors.
It does not have a single button … it has Open, Close, and Stop buttons.
I interface it through the garage door opener remote … I hooked the relay contacts from the iTach relay to be in parallel with the remote switches … A little soldering is needed.
Actually I have two doors, a double remote … and use two of the relays from the iTach … it has 3.
Solved
[quote=“RichardTSchaefer, post:5, topic:171078”]I too have Liftmaster MH5011E
This is more of a commercial door opener for Roller Doors.
It does not have a single button … it has Open, Close, and Stop buttons.
I interface it through the garage door opener remote … I hooked the relay contacts from the iTach relay to be in parallel with the remote switches … A little soldering is needed.
Actually I have two doors, a double remote … and use two of the relays from the iTach … it has 3.[/quote]
As always RichardTSchaefer you know your stuff. If I had only had your post days ago 
I did the same as you a couple hrs before your post. Hope this helps future noobs.
The problem I had was to read 3 different threads with over 100s of posts in each, out of dozens of threads to find the right ones and find solutions on other sites because micasaverde search did not bring up the threads well or at all. By a fluke I found this thread 4 days into researching. All the extra threads are because IT IS that hard to find the correct info on micasaverde bc of all the threads and none of them linked to the correct/original threads or the relevant pages in those threads/ better yet an update to the original posts with the relevant solved issues/ and all those garbage threads just say do a search. I was lucky to find the newer panel style issue and solution on other sites. Again this is a cry for someone to sticky the main threads/solutions including garage door threads/solutions under the respective sections as this solution will probably not easily be found by the next poor soul.
UPDATE to original issue: If this is your primary way to open the garage don’t use this update with the remote unless you are ok with changing the remotes batteries as you would with your car. Your other option is to research below in the link I provided. FYI this option allows your remote/relay to be mounted outside of the garage separate of the opener if that would be of help to you e.g. To easily change batteries/ The remote needs to reach the garage door well via wifi and vera also via zwave. So if you have a cement garage with steel doors this is a fast solution if zwave cannot penetrate your walls well but the remote will.
How to connect to a wireless remote: http://cocoontech.com/forums/page/articles/_/tutorials/home-automation-tutorials/how-to-automate-a-garage-door-using-its-wireless-remote-r41
With the liftmaster/chamberlain 3 button CAR remote: Pull the back off as to replace the battery. The Large button on the right is the one I programmed prior to everything. I pulled the battery, press a button to discharge as usual. If you start with the button facing you and large one on the right, the pin at 10 oclock is pin #1 and has a 1 next to it. In this pic the button is location SW4 in the bottom Right http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff483/stewfish1818/20131018_032913_zps8868896c.jpg. Pins 2 then 3, then 4 are clockwise from there. Flip the board over and solder to pins 1 and 3. With snips or a drill bit make a indention/hole in the two outer casings where they meet for the wire to come out to your relay. It does not matter which wire you hook up to which blue wire. test by touching the two wires together as the relay does. It works great. I will only us this as a way to warn me/shut the garage if it was left open, or there is an issue and I need to call a neighbor to close it. My wife left the garage door open atleast half a dozen times in the past year. This completes the options for a warning system via the countdown timer plugin set to warn me after 6 minutes of being open, a door sensor mounted like this but using aluminum http://www.incontrolzwave.com/image.axd?picture=2012%2F1%2Ffinished_sensor_mount.jpg , the openers’ auto close after 5 minutes, and a foscam via ip cam viewer to see any issues within seconds of pressing the icon. FYI- Youtube how to solder, it will take you 2 minutes to do it. Just have flux and flux core solder and tin your iron again your google search will provide the youtube videos. Also this is the easiest way to NOT ruin your motor if you are new it bc the remote is a separate device. If you only use vera as a backup to close the door when someone forgets you should not have to change the battery often. If you use tasker, or a scene or something with your phone everyday. With a good battery you won’t need to change it for 6 months like ussual
p.s. I’m using the evolve lfm-20 relay from amazon and it connected to vera in seconds via add devices: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006U1O978/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
[b]
With this relay I had to modify the cuurent luup file then upload the luup file following directions on page 14 of the garage door plugin thread http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php/topic,5106.msg131904.html#msg131904:[/b]
Modify the I_GarageDoorLock.xml
Search for luup.call_delay
Modify the two place and change the second arguments from 1 & 2 to 2 & 4 for the two occurrences respectively.
You can download then upload the new file from:
Apps then Develop Apps then Luup Files Insert notes - my extra notes to these directions: You need to have already installed the garage door app. Your current vera file is mid way down = I_garagedoorlock.xml. Hit download and save to desktop. Right click and open with notepad. About 2/3rd the way down you will see luup.call_delay (look for the underscore _ it will help find it easier) some other stuff and then number 1 change it to 2. Follow further down until you see it again and change 2 to 4. save. go back to luup files in vera. On the right is a browse button and hit browse to upload. Click the box to restart with upload. This modifies the plugin code. Test. If ok delete the file on your desktop.- end of my extra help notes
When you upload the modified file … click the Restart Luup after upload
Found Issue:
The smart panels are the issue. They also allow for auto close and “hold open” for auto close. If you want them then you have to solder into the button on the switch or a remote. If you take out the smart panel switch and just use the old school looking one you can then just tie into the motor. The issue is that the smart panels switches touch screen or not reset when you add it to the pack of the switch screws or up at the opener.
I went and bought a remote from home depot to hack, but I was reading on another site and came across this.
What the guy wrote if his link ever dies:
[quote]I got my solution from this link: http://cocoontech.co…-control-panel/
not entirely sure what the problem was, some people mentioned that the elk relay might cause the voltage to drop too low or possibly to high, either way causing the screen to power cycle and reboot. i originally ran my 2 wires to the 2 screw terminals on the back of each opener button and had the problem previously mentioned. then, as someone in that other thread suggested, i actually soldered my 2 wires onto the terminals on the back of the board where the buttons are soldered to the board. my opener had a long button along the top. once you remove the plastic button, you can see the board and the 2 little push buttons that the long button is pressing. after taking the opener off the wall, there was a black, plastic, paper-like cover over the back, which i folded forward so i could see the board. then i found one of the spots where those 2 buttons were soldered to the board, and grabbed a resistor and started shorting 2 points at a time until it triggered the door. then i connected my 2 wires to those 2 points and tested. problem solved, put everything back together.
i’m not sure how familiar you are with doing all of this stuff, but i’ll tell you i am very in-experienced and i was able to complete this fix for 3 openers in less than an hour. i do have previous experience with soldering, but i’m new to security wiring and all that up until about a month ago when i started completing the installation of my security system about a month ago. i pre-wired the house with some help but hadn’t picked a system until just recently. and let me tell you, i am loving the Elk M1. i have probably just scratched the surface of its capabilities, but it’s already pretty fun and exciting. [\quote]
here more about it with a pic from another guy for future vera zwavers:
My roommate years ago took apart a remote and jammed it so it was on all the time, and added a momentary switch to one of the 9 volt battery leads. He put the remote under the seat, and ran the momentary switch out from under the seat. When he arrived home, he would reach for the switch and open the door.
The beauty of this is if your remote is out of sight, and out of the weather. You can mount the switch anywhere underneath where it is out of sight, and only you know where it is
I have a similar problem at the moment, my model LiftMaster 8355. All the answers that I saw have not helped me yet. Have more go?
For your opener, with MyQ built in, try the LiftMaster MyQ plugin - http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php/topic,24715.0.html
For your opener, with MyQ built in, try the LiftMaster MyQ plugin - http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php/topic,24715.0.html[/quote]
Same here. I have been using MyQ for years. Works every day without an problems. OMG, if I had to do all the stuff listed by stewbuntu I would have given up and just used the opener button. MyQ plugs into your network. Activate it with Liftmaster, download the MyQ app, make a scene for Open/Close used with Alexa and anything else you want and yor are done. No wiring, no soldering, just works and works great!
Tom