I’ve done a search and read the other posts regarding the wiring for both LRM-AS and LTM-5. Wiring the LTM-5 hasn’t been an issue, but I can’t seem to get the LRM-AS working. A little bit of background, the LRM-AS will be going into a 3 gang box. From the photo bucket link below, the left switch is a three-way for a hallway light that is going to remain, the middle is a three-way switch that I’m trying to replace with the LRM-AS/LTM-5, and the right switch controls a porch light. Here are the photos for reference.
Based on previous testing and install of another Evolve dimmer switch, the red wire is the live/hot and black should be load wire. My issue here is that it seems as the wiring was wired differently in a 3 gang box. Hopefully you can see the pictures now, it seems as if the neutral (white) and live (red) wire (of the three wire) run to the switch that I’m swapping for the Evolve LRM-AS but the load (black) goes to a common load connection (connected to two or three other load wires). A separate load (black) wire runs to the switch with the neutral (white) going to a common neutral connection.
Any help is appreciated. This has been driving me crazy. Thanks in advance.
There’s no “common” load. The black that is connected to three other blacks is almost certainly the line, not the load.
You cannot assume the function of a wire based on its color or what it was in another circuit. You must use a voltage detector and or multimeter to properly determine the function of each wire. The white, attached to you pictured switch is not a neutral(yet), it is being used as a traveler and will be hot depending on the position of the two switches.
Looking at your pictures even I cannot simply tell what each wire’s function is, I would have to test the circuit to be sure. You are trying to replace standard 3-way switches and it is important to know that your Evolve switches do not function like normal switches at all and some reconfiguration of the wiring will be necessary. Attached is a diagram for the LRM-AS and LTM-5.
After listening to your recommendation and testing the wires with a voltage detector and multimeter, the black wire is the line as you said. Using the continuity mode, touching one end to the white wire and the other end to the light socket, there was a signal. Does that mean the white wire is the load wire? If that is the case, the blue wire (LRM-AS) will connect to the white (load), then cap the red traveler wire, connect the ground wire to the green on the LRM-AS. But what do I do with the neutral (white) coming out of the LRM-AS?
I don’t know where you tested at the socket end, center, outer threads, frame. I also don’t know if the wire was isolated or if it was connected to a neutral and thereby ground. So, even with your pictures, testing and description, I don’t have enough information to tell what the wire is used for.
If that is the case, the blue wire (LRM-AS) will connect to the white (load), then cap the red traveler wire, connect the ground wire to the green on the LRM-AS.
Yes.
The white neutral wire, coming from the LRM-AS, must connect to a neutral wire. In modern homes, there is usually a bundle of white neutrals stuffed into the back of the switch box. In that case the white from the LRM-AS would be added to the neutral bundle. But, I don’t know what you have.
You should consider having someone that is more familiar with electricity and household wiring, like an electrician, do this for you.
Thank you Z-waver, I ended up having to tie the white neutral to the bundle and pull another hot wire to the dimmer switch. Took a ton more testing and research, but finally everything is working good. Had to purchase the Aeon Minimote to associate the LTM-5 too. Thanks again!
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