I have a GE/Jasco 45612 (ZW3003) Dimmer switch that is connected to my kitchen pot lights. When the rocker switch is pressed off or when the Zwave dimmer control is set to 0%, the lights are still on, they are very dim, however still on. I have changed the Dim Rate adjustments on the manual and zwave dim command, 7=99, 8=1, 9=99 and 10=1 in Device Options however this has had no effect. I also measured the Switch Load output (at switch terminal) and I get around 30 VAC when off. It looks like the pot lights are LED, thus the 30 VAC is enough to keep them on. Is there another setting that I can get the load output to 0 VAC or do I have to put in a resistor to pad the load down. If this is the case, what size resistor would be recomended?
This is usually caused by the LED bulbs having such a low wattage requirement.
Do you have Neutral wires? (3 wire) or just 2 wires with no neutral ?
Some people on the Samsung forum were talking about using the Fibaro Dimmer Bypass resistor with these GE/Jasco dimmer switches to combat the problem of the LED bulbs not fully turning off or them flickering.
Do you have the same GE/Jasco 45612 switches in other rooms that work OK with LED bulbs ?
I have Fibaro Dimmer 2 modules on 2 wire and those require the bypass resistor for LED bulbs in most situations.
There is a minimum load in Watts in the user manual. Look for something similar in your GE/Jasco user manual, what is the minimum load? and what is the total wattage of all your LED bulbs in your Kitchen Pod lights? If the bulbs are less than the minimum load then that is the problem and you might need to try installing a bypass resistor across one of the bulbs, usually the first in the circuit loop.
https://manuals.fibaro.com/document/fibaro-bypass-2-fgb-002/
As an experiment just change one bulb to an old fashioned incandescent. This will provide enough resistive ballast. If it is stable then you might have an older style leading edge dimmer. You might need to find a trailing edge dimmer which are more stable with electronic loads. Historically all dimmers where leading edge but that is changing with electronic bulbs.
I am not sure which ZWave dimmers are leading or trailing edge but I suppose newer ones are probably trailing edge.
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Thats a good idea put in one incandescent bulb as a test
I cannot connect the Fibaro Dimmer Bypass becasue there is not enough room in the pot light and I cannot get into the ceiling as it is all drywalled. However, I have read on the internet that some people have used a 24Kohm 3W resistor between the Load output and neutral input on the switch can help with loading it down. (see topic Aeotec Bypass Dimmer - Alternative - 🛎️ Get Help - Hubitat). However my dimmer switch does not have a neutral input on it, therefore I would have to connect the resistor from the switches’ Load output and the neutral wire. Do you think that I can do this?
Yes but this is probably a NEC wiring code violation. Once you modify a lighting fixture you have invalidated its listing status. Further what about the heat generated from this resistor? Its slightly less than 1 Watt so not massive but depends where the resistor is located.
Did you try swapping one bulb to incandescent, just as a test, to see if the desired behavior is present before you jump off on all these other paths?