GE 3-way switch

Other Devices & Integrations Lighting & Load Control
1

I have a pair of GE 3-way switches I’m trying to wire. All of the examples of wiring don’t show what my house has. I have a newer house with neutrals in both boxes. My issue is I think my line from the fuse box and the load to the light are in the same box. The other switch only has 1 set of wires.

Does anyone have a good diagram or even a youtube video where the light and load go to the same box?

2

I think I have a DOA switch from EBay. It is an on/off (no dimmer) for my garage. I can’t get the led to light up on the switch, even without using the auxiliary switch.

I temporarily put in a dimmable switch and powered up the circuit and have a blue LED.

I’m going to run to Lowe’s and just buy new.

For my troubleshooting, please correct me where I’m wrong.

  1. I removed both standard 3-way switches from both ends.
  2. I un-bundled all the black and white wires in the main switch box.
  3. I did a continuity test between the neutral and black wires until I found my load. Only 1 black wire tested continuity. (I assume the other black wires are for the kitchen lights and outlets)
  4. the other switch box i tested for continuity and found none.
  5. powered the circuit back on and tested for the line. I found one black wire with 120v.
  6. powered off the circuit.
  7. connected all the white neutral wires in the main box.
  8. connected a white pigtail to the black line I think is the lights.
  9. powered the circuit back on, the garage lights come on. I feel a small accomplishment. :slight_smile:

The box in the garage has a 3 wire running to it, black, white, red and bare. I know which wire that is in the kitchen.

Be right back from Lowes. Hopefully they have non-dimmables in stock.

3

New switch worked on the first try.

Are these switches easy to blow by hooking them up wrong? I’m just wondering if i fried it, or if it was bad to begin with and I should request a refund. The Ebay auction was ‘open package item’. The used auxiliary switch works fine. The main switch is a GE ZW4001 ( 45609 ). Is there a fuse inside of it that could have blown? The blue light never comes on.

Thanks for listening! :wink:

4

It is entirely possible that you bought a dead switch. Open box form eBay? Of course it might be dead.

There are no fuses or any other serviceable items in these switches.

There are a few statements that I do not understand.

I temporarily put in a dimmable switch and powered up the circuit and have a blue LED.
I don't understand what you did here. But, you should never use any other switch with the 45609, other than the 45610 auxiliary switch. Yes, though they are pretty tough, it is possible to fry the 45609/45610 switches if it is improperly connected. This is true with any electrical device.
The used auxiliary switch works fine.
How is this determined? If I understand you correctly, the switch(45609) is not working. If that is the case, how can the Aux(45610) be working?

See the attached diagram.

5

I have everything working now. I had a bad switch. I’m just wondering what are the chances I fried the main switch, or was it DOA? I thought the Aux switches were easy to fry if I hook up 120v to the traveler. I did not do this.

I had a spare dimmable switch. I put it in, without the Aux, and tested that the LED would come on. I then went to Lowes and bought a brand new on/off smart switch. With that new switch, I was able to get the used Aux switch to also work.

This is only my 2nd 3-way I’ve hooked up.

Is there a way to use a meter to test a switch right out of the box next time? I have 2 more sets of used dimmable 3-ways.

Thank you for your patience and help, Z-Waver! I’ve read a lot of your posts…

6

[quote=“BarneyRubble318, post:5, topic:187538”]Is there a way to use a meter to test a switch right out of the box next time? I have 2 more sets of used dimmable 3-ways.[/quote]There’s probably no such simple option. To completely test the switch with a multimeter, it would be necessary to disassemble the switch and test the various electronic components inside and on the Z-Wave chip. That’s just not worth the trouble, even if it didn’t destroy the switch.

The easiest test is to install the switch, even if it is just on a bench for testing. But, it does require that you understand how to properly install it, which is something most first time installers aren’t going to be confident with.

I’m glad you got yours working.

7

I figured I couldn’t test, but thought I’d ask.

I will label each wire before I remove from the old switches. Then remove the switches, untie any wirenuts in the box, find the line and find the load before I do anything next time. No more assuming.

It’s unbelievable how my 10 year old house has groups of 5 wires soldered together and tied off with a thin layer of black tape.

8

Barney, you never know what you are going to find… my house was build in 98 and while every box (except for one 3 way that looks like it was added after the fact) has had a neutral wire and generally makes sense, I have found plenty of crazy crap as well… like 3 way switches that weren’t wired right in the first place and didn’t work right, one of the boxes had duct tape instead of wire nuts. And not one outlet or switch in the place has a ground attached to it thought the ground is in the box. Not to mention the fuse box is so miss labeled I still have some mystery fuses that I have no idea what they do. It is maddening, every time I touch something, I have to plan extra time to fix all the things wrong figure out what circuit goes where. Sheesh!