[quote=“Cdubbshort, post:6, topic:172438”]I’ll try and explain this in a simple manner, so here it goes:
In a 3-way wiring scheme, you should have 3 “sets” of wires. One “set” should be a 2-wire (white, black, and ground) that supplies the power (line). The second should be another 2-wire that goes to the fixture. The third should be a 3-wire (black, white, red, and ground) that goes in between the two switches. (Try to ignore any extra wires that just go to other outlets or switches for now). Also, keep in mind, when talking about the # of wires (i.e. 3-wire, the ground is not counted.
Usually, one switch has power in (line) and the 3-wire (between switches). The other switch would have the 2-wire to the fixture (load) and the other end of the 3-wire.
It’s easiest to install the primary switch at the location with the “fixture” (load) wires.
Go to the box that does NOT have the load (fixture) wires. Install the auxiliary switch there. Connect the neutral (white) and the red (traveler) of the 3-wire to the new switch. (Make sure all neutrals in the box are tied together and the switch.) Then tie the black of the 3-wire and the black of the line wire together (not on the switch). This sends line power back to the other switch.
At the other switch, connect the black from the 3-wire to the “line” side of the switch, the black fixture wire to the “load” side, the red to the “traveler” on the switch, and a neutral wire to the switch (again, make sure all of the whites are tied together, including the switch).
If you want to swap the locations of the switches, just use the black of the 3-wire to send the load to the other box instead of line.
Don’t forget to install all of the grounds.
Last, if you had any other wire in the box, figure out how to tie those back into the “line” side. Most likely these would be at the aux switch and you would just tie those into the other black wire that are tied together in the back of the box and once again, keep all of your neutrals tied together.
When you’re done, you should have a red “traveler” between switches (and nothing else), a black hot to the line side of the main switch, a black load between the switch and the fixture, and ALL of the white neutrals tied together (even between the switches). I would advise a multimeter to make sure you know which wire is which.
I know it sounds complicated, but just take it step by step and you’ll figure it out.
NOTE: I can’t think of a reason that you should ever have un-used wires in a box. Further more, if you did end up with extra wire, you created a safety issue. Someone could later hook that wire up to a source not knowing where it goes and not knowing it’s just tucked in a box and could create an arc, or worse yet, a fire.[/quote]
thanks. i did what you said: install the primary switch where the “load” wire is present and the aux switch in the location where there is no “load”. it was so frustrating and cannot get it to work. here is my existing connections:
SWITCH 1 - there are 3 wires connected to a regular 3-way switch; black (load), white (neutral), and red (traveler) and nothing else. there is no line (hot wire) connected to this switch.
SWITCH 2 - there are also 3 wires connected to this switch; black (line), white (neutral), and red (traveler).
i installed the primary switch (45609) and replaced SWITCH 1 above. since there is no hot wired as i mentioned above, i tapped and use a jumper from the bunch of black (hot) wires tied together and connected it to the “line” side of the GE45609. then i installed the aux switch (45610) and replaced SWITCH 2. since there are only 2 screws available in the aux switch, i connected the white and traveler to their respective screws. i capped the line (hot) wire with a wire nut and did not use it. THIS DID NOT WORK. thanks for your input anyway. i will sleep it off and try again tomorrow.
