Wierd…
I finally got this setup…I press up, it clicks…blue LED turns off…but no lights…I press down, it clicks…LED turns on…
Any idea why no lights?
@smilepak - It sounds as though you have properly wired the two switches. But, your load or your neutral from the light are not properly attached.
That is what I thought. Currently the original setup, I don’t have a white used in the current 3-way switch. It is two blacks and one red and one green (ground). The white is tangle together with the switch next to it (dimmer) in a cap.
So I got an extra white and tie the white to that cap.
Originally I thought the neutral / white is not properly attached. So I remove the neutral / white, no blue LED. Turn on/off, no clicks. Put back the neutral / white. blue led works, turn on/off, I hear clicks. But still no lights.
What color wires do you have in your boxes on each side; are they both the same? Do you have a multimeter?
Here’s the configuration that worked for me. The wiring colors may not be the same so it would be a good idea to test with a voltmeter:
Primary box:
[ul][li]White (Neutral) - capped and tied together[/li]
[li]Black (Load) - connect to Load on switch[/li]
[li]Black (Line) - connect to Line on switch[/li]
[li]Red (Traveler) - connect to Traveler on switch[/li]
[li]Bare (Ground) - connect to Ground on switch[/li][/ul]
Test line vs. load by using a multimeter. Line is the lead providing power, so it should show 120V (or 240V) when tested with ground. Load is the lead to the fixture, so it should show 0V when tested with ground.
Auxiliary box:
[ul][li]White (Neutral) - connect to Neutral on switch[/li]
[li]Black (Load) - capped and tied together[/li]
[li]Red (Traveler) - connect to Traveler on switch[/li]
[li]Bare (Ground) - connect to Ground on switch[/li][/ul]
Silencery’s post is excellent, but please be very careful when testing live circuits. If you aren’t sure about what you are doing, you could hurt/kill yourself.
That the switch clicks and the LED lights (and Vera probably sees it) tells us that the switch’s neutral and line wiring is probably correct.
I am suspicious that you may have the load improperly tied to the remote 45610 switch or even possible have the load in the remote 45610 box. When dealing with several instances of the same colored wires, it is easy to lose track of which is which.
If you are confused, perhaps it would be easier for you to start by simply wiring the 45609 as a single switch, taping off the remote 45610 three way switch until the first one is working.
Once you get the main 45609 working standalone, it will be a simpler matter of tying in the remote 45610 to make a three way configuration.
@Z-Waver: I tried that too. Disconnect the 45910 and use only 45909. I tried to swap location of 45609 as well.
I use a electric tester that beeps when it touches a live cable. (http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-1AC-A1-II-Volt-Alert-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B000EJ332O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1362518748&sr=8-2&keywords=electric+power+tester)
1 - Black Hot (w/ power) → Black Line
1 - Black Non Hot - Black Load
1 - Red (traveler) - Traveler
1- Green (Ground) - Ground
1 - White capped together with other whites. - Neutral
I wonder if the 45609 I have is defective.
This facepalm moment is a possibility. You’ve put enough work and endured just about enough frustration for that to turn out to be the cause.
Does your tester show the load wire to be “hot” when the switch is on? If yes, the switch is good.
Yup, when I turn on the breaker switch, it is hot. I put back the original 3-day illuminated switch and it works fine ehehe
Originally i was afraid I had wack out all of my recess lights.
Oh yeah, absolutely! Thanks for including that very important disclaimer Z-Waver.
@smilepak Yeah, I’d be inclined to believe the switch is out. Try swapping it if you can. From what I can tell, your wiring looks correct.
This does not make sense. If the load wire from the 45609 and going to the light becomes hot when the switch is turned on, and the neutral from the light is properly connected, the light must light.
True, but I think a multimeter is needed at the light socket to verify this is really happening.
Something cheap will do fine:
You don’t have to buy online either…they are available for not much more in hardware stores or big box stores.
Again be careful though. If not sure what you are doing stop (take pics) and ask.
I am having the same problem. Did you figure it out?