First z-Wave switch

Other Devices & Integrations Lighting & Load Control
#1

Just purchase the VeraLite and need assistance with replacing switches in a 3-gang box. Three switches from left to right. On/Off for Hallway light, Foyer light, and Front Porch light.

#2

So what is your question? Are these 3-way switches? Regular switches?

There’s a lot of different brands of switches. Look around here or the wiki for more info.
http://wiki.micasaverde.com/index.php/Supported_Hardware

#3

Regular switches. Was reading that z-wave switches for 3-Gang boxes were a tight fit and may require modding of the heat sinks. Was looking to see what switch would be a simple replacement.

Or something like this: http://www.mcohome.com/index.php?m=Product&a=show&id=28

Or could I use a micro switch and keep the existing switches?

#4

Superfluous verbosity. LOL. Ok, I’ll try to keep mine relevant.

There are two potential issues with a 3 gang box.

  1. Due to the greater depth of z-wave switches and possibly large number of wires (and possibly wire nuts) in the box, it might be a very tight fit, especially if the box is not a deep one. Sometimes, it may be necessary to install a deep gang box or even expand it to a 4 gang box. This is not usually a huge deal.

  2. Z-Wave switches burn a watt or two even when off to power the Z-Wave electronics and radio in the switch. This creates a little bit of heat. Dimmer switches create even more heat when in use. The manufactures try to dissipate the heat by using the front plate of the switch as a heat sink and make the plate a little larger to dissipate more heat. Notice the three break away tabs on each side of the face of this GE/Jasco 45609 On/Off Switch.

The problem is that because of the extra width of the tabs when you install three of these switches side by side, they can’t always fit. The solution is to simply break off the tabs. The catch is that the switch will no longer dissipate as much heat and you could potentially have an excess heat issue, especially with dimmers. For this reason, the manufacturers derate the dimmer when you break off the tabs. For instance a 600 watt dimmer might only be rated for 400 watts if the tabs are removed. See page 11 of the 4512 Dimmer Manual.

My recommendation… Pick the switch you like best. If the gang box isn’t a deep type and you need more depth, replace the gang box. If you have to break off heatsink tabs, be aware of the wattage derating. It’s not as complicated as it seems.

#5

Thanks. One more question. I really like this light switch: http://www.ebay.com/itm/161124948267?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I was thinking that switch in conjunction with a micro controller. I have not seen a micro controller that supports 3 loads so would I need 3 controllers or two. One for two loads and one for the remaining switch.

#6

[quote=“claymca, post:5, topic:184476”]Thanks. One more question. I really like this light switch: http://www.ebay.com/itm/161124948267?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT[/quote]I know nothing about this switch. I am unsure if it can be combined with an in-wall micro switch.

I was thinking that switch in conjunction with a micro controller. I have not seen a micro controller that supports 3 loads so would I need 3 controllers or two. One for two loads and one for the remaining switch.
there are no in-wall microswitches with more than two relays, that I am aware of. It will depend on which make/model you buy, but at a minimum, you would need a double and a single relay if not three singles.
#7

Thanks Z-Waver.

#8

I agree with him and I’ll add that switch looks like POS I would avoid.