EVOLVE Z-Wave Switches (3-way) -- no neutral wire in one of the box

Hi,

I have this problem now, and hope someone can offer advice / shed some light on the options I have, especially if they have previous experience

This is a 3-way switch issue.

In Switch A, I have neutral wire. This means I can install the master dimmer switch EVOLVE LRM-AS Amazon.com

In Switch B, I do not have neutral wire. This means I cannot install an accessory switch EVOLVE LTM-5 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008OF8CJO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage to allow it to work with EVOLVE LRM-AS

How do I solve this problem?
I do not want to cut open dry walls to loop the neutral wire from Switch A to Switch B

The solutions I can think of (but I am uncertain whether I can still retain the ability to remotely control the LRM-AS switch thereafter from mobile phone, pc, etc.)

  1. Install a normal rocker switch in Switch B.

  2. Tap on a neutral wire from an outlet nearby (?!)

  3. Abandon the Switch B, thereby making Switch A as the only controller for the light

Please offer your insights!

You’ve not described or diagrammed your existing wiring enough for me to be helpful. See the attached diagram for one example of how to wire these switches.

[quote=“mishyq, post:1, topic:188488”]1) Install a normal rocker switch in Switch B.[/quote]The LRM-AS cannot be combined with any other switch, Z-Wave or standard. Even when used with an LTM-5, there is no electrical connection directly between the two. The connection is wireless.

2) Tap on a neutral wire from an outlet nearby (?!)
There are significant safety issues with this, where you interconnect two different circuits. Neutrals from one circuit should not be connected to another circuit. It would be better to bring the entire receptacle circuit, Line Neutral and Ground, up to the switch. Instead of running just a Neutral, run an entire Romex cable from the receptacle to the switch.
3) Abandon the Switch B, thereby making Switch A as the only controller for the light
This will work, but it is less convenient.

If you indeed have an existing 3-way setup, there should be a 3-wire (plus ground) cable going from one switch to the other. It is very likely that currently the white is not connected to neutral, but you can rewire it to use it as a neutral so that your 2nd switch would now have a neutral.

i wouldnt be able to provide more informaiton (in terms of wiring available)

all i was told is that i dont have neutral wire at switch B.

so i am not sure if Lingerbar’s method can work?

You need to determine exactly how the circuit is wired. These switches will not operate without a Neutral.

The description offered by @lingerba exactly matches the diagram that I previously provided.

[quote=“Z-Waver, post:5, topic:188488”]You need to determine exactly how the circuit is wired. These switches will not operate without a Neutral.

The description offered by @lingerba exactly matches the diagram that I previously provided.[/quote]

thanks - i am not the one looking at the circuit. but my electrician is the person who inform me abt it.
he doesnt know how to solve this problem yet so i am trying to seek for advice in forum
but based on what i understood from him, there is no neutral wire connection from switch A to switch B (as seen in your diagram now). In order for this neutral wire connection to exist, i need to cut out drywall on ceiling (which i want to avoid). so with this in mind, and i dont want to cut out drywall, this means i cannot use LRM-AS and LTM in this scenario, right? that is why i was asking abt option 2), where i fish out neutral wire from an outlet on the same wall where Switch B exist. but i think you said that’s risky and not right.

another note to mention – i am trying to use LRM-AS and LTM to control dimmable LED fixtures (emphasis: LED fixtures, not LED bulbs). the specific LED fixture is this wall sconce http://www.brucklighting.com/products/lfi/qb-detail . i know LRM-AS can work well with LED bulbs (bc i have get them hooked up successfully in other areas of home). but can it work well with LED fixtures?

You can put a Cooper Battery Powered z-wave Switch there. It uses direct associated to the Evlove switch so can dim it turn it on/off etc.
No Neutral required. Batteries last for years.

Just have your electrician complete the circuit in the box and put a flat plate over it. Then stick on the Cooper.

Cooper RF9500AW is the model number.

It is impossible for you to currently have a 3-way switch and not have 3 wires going from one switch to the other. Use the 3 wires and wire it exactly how Z-Waver is showing in his diagram. By doing this, you are using the white wire that is already in place to take the neutral from one switch to the other. If you have an electrician who doesn’t understand this, you need to find another electrician.

[quote=“shallowearth, post:7, topic:188488”]You can put a Cooper Battery Powered z-wave Switch there. It uses direct associated to the Evlove switch so can dim it turn it on/off etc.
No Neutral required. Batteries last for years.

Just have your electrician complete the circuit in the box and put a flat plate over it. Then stick on the Cooper.

Cooper RF9500AW is the model number.[/quote]

This is the one, right? but this is made by Cooper. Is it going to be a problem to use it together with EVOLVE brand?
http://www.smarthome.com/cooper-wiring-devices-rf9500aw-aspire-rf-wireless-remote-switch-alpine-white.html

No, the diagram is very clear and my electrician will understand it. But whether we can do it in the way diagram recommend (without removing drywall) — that i am uncertain about, bc I wasnt looking into the existing wiring that closely but just learning abt the issue from the outset. But i think what you are saying is that this should be doable. I will ask my electrician to confirm abt that.