How do I solve this problem?
I do not want to cut open dry walls to loop the neutral wire from Switch A to Switch B
The solutions I can think of (but I am uncertain whether I can still retain the ability to remotely control the LRM-AS switch thereafter from mobile phone, pc, etc.)
Install a normal rocker switch in Switch B.
Tap on a neutral wire from an outlet nearby (?!)
Abandon the Switch B, thereby making Switch A as the only controller for the light
You’ve not described or diagrammed your existing wiring enough for me to be helpful. See the attached diagram for one example of how to wire these switches.
[quote=“mishyq, post:1, topic:188488”]1) Install a normal rocker switch in Switch B.[/quote]The LRM-AS cannot be combined with any other switch, Z-Wave or standard. Even when used with an LTM-5, there is no electrical connection directly between the two. The connection is wireless.
2) Tap on a neutral wire from an outlet nearby (?!)
There are significant safety issues with this, where you interconnect two different circuits. Neutrals from one circuit should not be connected to another circuit. It would be better to bring the entire receptacle circuit, Line Neutral and Ground, up to the switch. Instead of running just a Neutral, run an entire Romex cable from the receptacle to the switch.
3) Abandon the Switch B, thereby making Switch A as the only controller for the light
If you indeed have an existing 3-way setup, there should be a 3-wire (plus ground) cable going from one switch to the other. It is very likely that currently the white is not connected to neutral, but you can rewire it to use it as a neutral so that your 2nd switch would now have a neutral.
[quote=“Z-Waver, post:5, topic:188488”]You need to determine exactly how the circuit is wired. These switches will not operate without a Neutral.
The description offered by @lingerba exactly matches the diagram that I previously provided.[/quote]
thanks - i am not the one looking at the circuit. but my electrician is the person who inform me abt it.
he doesnt know how to solve this problem yet so i am trying to seek for advice in forum
but based on what i understood from him, there is no neutral wire connection from switch A to switch B (as seen in your diagram now). In order for this neutral wire connection to exist, i need to cut out drywall on ceiling (which i want to avoid). so with this in mind, and i dont want to cut out drywall, this means i cannot use LRM-AS and LTM in this scenario, right? that is why i was asking abt option 2), where i fish out neutral wire from an outlet on the same wall where Switch B exist. but i think you said that’s risky and not right.
another note to mention – i am trying to use LRM-AS and LTM to control dimmable LED fixtures (emphasis: LED fixtures, not LED bulbs). the specific LED fixture is this wall sconce http://www.brucklighting.com/products/lfi/qb-detail . i know LRM-AS can work well with LED bulbs (bc i have get them hooked up successfully in other areas of home). but can it work well with LED fixtures?
You can put a Cooper Battery Powered z-wave Switch there. It uses direct associated to the Evlove switch so can dim it turn it on/off etc.
No Neutral required. Batteries last for years.
Just have your electrician complete the circuit in the box and put a flat plate over it. Then stick on the Cooper.
It is impossible for you to currently have a 3-way switch and not have 3 wires going from one switch to the other. Use the 3 wires and wire it exactly how Z-Waver is showing in his diagram. By doing this, you are using the white wire that is already in place to take the neutral from one switch to the other. If you have an electrician who doesn’t understand this, you need to find another electrician.
[quote=“shallowearth, post:7, topic:188488”]You can put a Cooper Battery Powered z-wave Switch there. It uses direct associated to the Evlove switch so can dim it turn it on/off etc.
No Neutral required. Batteries last for years.
Just have your electrician complete the circuit in the box and put a flat plate over it. Then stick on the Cooper.
No, the diagram is very clear and my electrician will understand it. But whether we can do it in the way diagram recommend (without removing drywall) — that i am uncertain about, bc I wasnt looking into the existing wiring that closely but just learning abt the issue from the outset. But i think what you are saying is that this should be doable. I will ask my electrician to confirm abt that.
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