E8 400MM Stainless Automatic Gate Opener how to automate?

Just got done installing this unit at my home, with the dual arm gate. Works flawless! Love it, highly recommend for the price point. Now… The real question is, how do I automate this bad larry!? Control box seems to have a million options and ports just wondering what to use and what device to make it work. Figuring a window sensor to let me know when the gate is being opened and closed and some sort of on/off switch to make the gate actuate?

Currently using the key pad with cards and pin codes and also the IR remote that works off the IR controller in the box. Here it is on amazon to get a better idea.

Here is the PDF install guide which includes some awesome wiring diagrams:

This kit and a competent installer will get the job done.

If your installer is good enough you can automate it with geofencing, PLEG and a ping sensor. Woohoo! Love automation.

well the biggest hurdle you are going to have to tackle is the gate being 12 volt DC and zwave devices are typically AC.

But you also need to figure out what the input pulses are. they are going to be either a ground pulse or a +12v pulse. the wires to be tested are C1, C2 and CM they are between the control board and the receiver.

It looks as tho the CM wire is common to both gates. and the C1 is for gate 1 and C2 is for gate 2 depending on if you have 2 gates. (meaning a double door gate).

I do not know how the remote control is set up. if it has a single button or 2 buttons (one for open and one for close). if there are 2 buttons then it could be setup where a single pulse on the wire opens the gate and a double pulse closes it. this is one of those things you are going to have to check.

I would imagine the controller would be auto sensing so it would only be a single pulse where you pulse the wire and the gate opens if the gate is closed. and a single pulse to close if the gate is open.

but you want to check those wires. because of the use of a dual wire setup for each gate it could be reversing polarity as well. this is a wee bit more complicated but here is an example of it.

C1 - CM - C2
+12V GND GND - Opens Gate 1
GND GND +12V - Opens Gate 2
+12V GND +12V - Opens Gate 1 & 2
GND +12V +12V - Closes Gate 1
+12V +12V GND - Closes Gate 2
GND +12V GND - Closes Gate 1 & 2

the use of a dual wire for both gate1 and gate 2 lead me to believe this is how it is set up otherwise there would be no need for 3 wires. in order to figure out which way the polarity has to change (so we don’t open the gate when we want to close it) you will need to check the resting state of the wires. so get a volt ohm meter only use a computer safe meter like Fluke. DO NOT USE AN ANALOG METER! no meters that look like a 1970’s VU Meter. Bluepoint is a good meter it is made for Snap-On by fluke so that one if OK as well.

you can also test what each wire does when you open and close the gate… this is going to require you to open it 3 times checking each wire. and close it 3 times checking each wire.
for all tests you will want to clip the black lead from the meter to the ground connector on the control board this is the spot on the board where the batteries connect to. it is indicated in the diagram as being marked as “- Black”, if there is a single battery and the battery is marked at 12V then it is safe to connect to the “-” on the battery.

If you do not get a reading this is OK. that means it is most likely ground or a “-” which you can check for my setting you meter to a continuity test. on fluke this is typically turning the knob all the way to the right. it will be a symbol that is either a line or a dot with what looks like a sideways WiFi signal meter. You will know if you are on the correct setting if you touch the 2 leads from the meter together and it beeps (without the leads touching anything other then each other!). The meter will beep if it is a GND pulse. I am also going to need to now if the change in state on the wire whether it is 12V or GND is held at that state for the duration of the gate movement. or if it is a quick pulse.

I know I am going to sound like i am repeating myself. But it is good to do a double check.

Things needed:
Fluke Digital Meter
Wiring diagram of the Unit

Pre testing testing.
Figure out which setting is for continuity on the meter. Touch both leads on the meter together and turn the knob until the meter beeps - if the beeping stops when you disconnect the 2 leads this is the right setting.

DC setting on the meter. symbol looks like a solid line and then a dotted line under it. This can be tested by touching the red lead on the meter to the “+” on the battery and the black lead to the “-” the meter should display 12.** volts (** being some number). if it is not displaying as 12.** but is displaying a number you either have it set to AC (the wavy line) or press the range button until the meter displays AUTO or 40

Connect the black lead of the meter to the ‘-’ battery connection on the control board this will remain here for the duration of the tests.

Set the meter to DC

Check connections C1 CM C2. if you see 12V on a wire write down +12V and you can skip the next step for that wire.
if there is no reading on a wire. turn meter knob to continuity and check again. if the meter beeps then write down GND

once that is done set the meter to DC and put the red meter lead on the first connector. open the gate and watch the meter closely. if it is a pulse it will only spike for a split second. then close the gate. then set the meter to continuity and test the same wire again in the same manner. listening for the beep. write down the results. repeat this step for each wire.
report back and let me know your findings.

Here is a simple thing you can use and simply circle what is going on.

					C1					CM						C2							TYPE

RESTING				+12V		GND			+12V		GND				+12V		GND

OPENING				+12V		GND			+12V		GND											PULSE		CONST

CLOSING				+12V		GND			+12V		GND											PULSE		CONST

OPENING									+12V		GND				+12V		GND					PULSE		CONST

CLOSING									+12V		GND				+12V		GND					PULSE		CONST

Once we know this information we will be able to determine what is needed and how we are going to connect it. the easiest method and cheapest would use WiFi. that is if you get a reliable Wifi signal from your house at the gate. I am going to suggest to use an ESP8266 micro controller cost is 3.00 USD if you have really good soldering skills and if not the cost would be 10.00 USD. a 4 relay board about 10.00 USD. a USB car charger (probably laying around the house already), USB A to USB Mini B (probably laying around the house as well). And you can use either a Z Wave door/window magnetic sensor or my suggestion would be to use a magnetic reed switch and attach directly to the ESP8266 . the reason for this is we will be able to attach the ESP8266 directly to the batteries at the gate which either have a transformer or a recharging solar panel so you will never have to worry about replacing batteries. And we can also get a little crafty and setup the ESP8266 to monitor the voltage of the batteries at the gate to let you know if they are going bad or not. But we can also institute a lockout as well that would disconnect all ability to open and close the gate from the remotes.

I can walk you through the process of programming and attaching the ESP8266 to the gate and getting it connected to the Vera. or I can build the whole thing and mail it to ya. You would still have to attach it to the gate but you would not have to worry about making connections between the ESP and the relays or flashing the firmware onto the ESP.

If i was to build it I would need to know the largest dimensions inside of the control box for adding the components. I would preffer to have the components inside of their own box inside the control box. so largest W x H x D

Total build price.
Your time
Couple of burnt fingers if you are not good at soldering
and the hit to the wallet is 20.50 USD if charger and cable are kicking around the house or 35.50 USD if not


WOW! Thank you both so much for the amazing responses! Shooting you a PM to continue this!