[quote=“RexBeckett, post:120, topic:170342”]
the thing gets hardly warm.
check this out http://www.jmf-gadget.com/Webwinkel-Category-618160/LED-Weerstand-Ontstoring.html
So are you going to add CanBus to your home wiring? I guess it could work if you have a central low-voltage source. Not for me, though, I don’t want to run any more cables.
Certainly defeats the energy efficiency of LED lighting. On the automotive LEDs - Replacing filament bulbs with LED lights often results in the car computer announcing that the bulbs have died, when in fact they are just operating with a lower current. Rather than adding in devices that deliberately waste extra current so the car computer is happy - you would reckon they could just reprogram the trip levels on the current sensors they use (assuming that’s how it all works).
no a friend of mine uses them in his restaurant and has about 30 of em. have no problem with cables since the place got a lowered ceiling with plenty of space above it.
it has an normal bulb which is a sort of shortcut, does not light up with very low voltage puls when computer checks for it. led light have a anode and kathode and are not connected there is a tiny little gap between, so the puls cannot detect the load on it. add a tiny capicitor along connecting points and it will do fine.
[quote=“RexBeckett, post:120, topic:170342”]
the thing gets hardly warm.
Got the correct resistor and my led lights can be dimmed to any level - flicker free. Excellent advice!
As I posted here a while back, running (4) of the Home Depot bought T85 Commercial Electric recessed can LED trims on a Leviton 600W Z-Wave dimmer I was not having any flicker issues. I think there needs to be at least 4 of them installed to avoid any flicker. So fast forward to now, and the T85 has been discontinued and replace with a cheaper, more efficient, 20 less lumens, slightly warmer colored version they call the T65. When I installed some this weekend I ended up with a new problem for me (I have since found others on the forum experiencing it), which is the light flickering when off.
Good news is that the Dummy Load fixes it. I have never experienced the flickering when on or off, so I followed @TimAlls expert instruction and first tried a few candelabra sockets and a couple 10W candelabra appliance bulbs and placed one on each switch leg of lights. Problem solved. Now I can replace the 10W bulbs with the recommended resistors instead.
These resistors happen to be On Sale since they aren’t RoHS compliant for $2.16 ea…I picked up a Raspberry Pi while I was at it since Newark has a few left.
I will try the Dummy Load Resistors on other LED circuits that haven’t experience flicker and see if it improves the slight On Delay or allows for smoother dimming, etc.
I just want to verify I’m on the right track before I order and attempt this. My issue is with Leviton Z-wave dimmers on circuits with all LED bulbs. I’m in the USA so not dealing with 220 or anything like that.
Order KAL25FB1K50 1.5K OHM 25W Resistors, one per circuit (not one per can light, correct?)
Install them inside a can light connecting one end to the black wire, one end to the white wire.
Mount to the can so the entire can acts to dissipate the heat.
Revel in my flicker-free LED bulb lighting circuit with a beer and a nap.
Do I have it correct? Thanks for the help in advance.
[quote=“wantonsoup, post:129, topic:170342”]I just want to verify I’m on the right track before I order and attempt this. My issue is with Leviton Z-wave dimmers on circuits with all LED bulbs. I’m in the USA so not dealing with 220 or anything like that.
Order KAL25FB1K50 1.5K OHM 25W Resistors, one per circuit (not one per can light, correct?)
Install them inside a can light connecting one end to the black wire, one end to the white wire.
Mount to the can so the entire can acts to dissipate the heat.
Revel in my flicker-free LED bulb lighting circuit with a beer and a nap.
Do I have it correct? Thanks for the help in advance.[/quote]
Yes, that is what I followed and it has been working for me. You just need one per circuit.
Hi
I am a professional installer in canada and have been installing the lutron radio ra2 for a while. But recently I have decided to switch to z wave coz of its spreading popularity and cost effectiveness. Now I am trying this at my home just to make sure that before doing any professional install I am ready with all ifs and buts. Now in my master bed room I have 10 potlights which are using incadecent bulbs. If I replace them with 9 watt leds what is a possibility of flickering. I have installed vri 06 leviton dimmer. I have read the instruction that came with dimmer and it says minimum 40 watts. Now all 10 add together comes to 90 watts. ThanksWEPUBW
It depends in the led bulb that you use. I have the same dimmers as you and have philips led bulbs (the ones with the yellow tops) and they work great in the four cans that I have for my home theater lighting. You already meet the minimum load, you would need to find the right led bulbs that will not cause issues as not all led bulbs are created equal. I am thinking of testing out the new cree led bulbs as well.
Thanks garrettwp. I have been testing 9 w daylight Cree 9 units for now 14 days they work great. No problems so far. Another thing I noticed while changing the Cree bulbs from one room to another that they were hot even though they were off. I assume becoz the dimmer is flowing current through them to keep Z wave module going. Any thoughts?
[quote=“garrettwp, post:132, topic:170342”][u]It depends in the led bulb that you use. I have the same dimmers as you and have philips led lighting (the ones with the yellow tops) and they work great in the four cans that I have for my home theater lighting. You already meet the minimum load, you would need to find the right led bulbs that will not cause issues as not all led bulbs are created equal. I am thinking of testing out the new cree led bulbs as well.
hello friend you seems to be experienced person so can you tell which lights are best suited as dummy lights in this case?Waiting for reply thanks in advance:)
[quote=“garrettwp, post:132, topic:170342”]It depends in the led bulb that you use. I have the same dimmers as you and have philips led bulbs (the ones with the yellow tops) and they work great in the four cans that I have for my home theater lighting. You already meet the minimum load, you would need to find the right led bulbs that will not cause issues as not all led bulbs are created equal. I am thinking of testing out the new cree led bulbs as well.
Garrett - Do you have a resistor installed in-line?
Hi all,
We have the CA600 dimmer switches and are trying to use them with our LEDs… so far without success.
My electrician has read this thread and installed the resistors as specified. The dimmer switch turns the lights on, but when on the highest level, the lights flickers. But if it’s below max, the lights are fine. But then when we try to turn the lights off, they do this glowing, flickering thing. My electrician also tried installing 2 resistors but nothing. He’s tried them in series and parallel. Nothing seems to work. We’ve tried with different types of LEDs – the Halo plug ins (as in the picture) and then also Phillips screw in LEDs.
And we have several lights already on the switch. We have 7 of the Halo plug ins on one switch. And for the Phillips LEDs, we have 9 on the CA600.
What are we doing wrong?? I’ve attached a photo of the resistor attached to one of the Halo lights.
Thanks, all!!!
When you had the resistor wired in parallel, you had it correct.
Are the LEDs of the dimmable variety? Many LEDs are not dimmable. If they are dimmable then I would recommend trying a different switch(cheaper than different LEDs). I’ve had good luck with the Evolve LRM-AS Dimmer (Requires neutral) without any resistors. Just be aware that you must use a Evolve LTM-5 Remote Switch for 3-way and n-way applications.
[quote=“Z-Waver, post:137, topic:170342”]When you had the resistor wired in parallel, you had it correct.
Are the LEDs of the dimmable variety? Many LEDs are not dimmable. If they are dimmable then I would recommend trying a different switch(cheaper than different LEDs). I’ve had good luck with the Evolve LRM-AS Dimmer (Requires neutral) without any resistors. Just be aware that you must use a Evolve LTM-5 Remote Switch for 3-way and n-way applications.[/quote]
Good question about the lights. I went back and double-checked. All the lights are dimmable.
I’m super bummed that it’s not working. Ideally, I’d like to get these dimmers working rather than buying new ones.
Does the way it’s wired in the photo look right?
Should we try 3 resistors? The switches work fine when we plug in a single incandescent (albeit 60w… didn’t have any lower watt ones on hand) in with the group of LEDs.
Any thoughts would be great. We are going to figure this out!!! ???
It’s very hard to see how you have the wiring, but it looks right. And if that is wired parallel then it is correct.
As for figuring it out; that’s already done. Either replace the switches or replace the LEDs, you’ve proven that the two that you have don’t work together.
You could try to find the lowest wattage incandescent bulb that still works, and see if there is a suitable resistor.
No; you would probably go out of spec.
Probably best to be safe and find a suitable dimmer with a neutral, and see how that goes? (I imagine these kitchen lights are on a lot?)
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