Excellent!
I combed back through and couldn’t find the picture where you installed in the can, do you have a picture of that? I saw the scematic, but an wondering if I should simply screw the resistor into the can through the hole? Any screw suggestion?
Thanks
I cancelled my Amazon order and ordered the ones from digikey just in case. Where did you end up mounting the resistor in the can?
Do you reccomend the thermal overload circuit from your experience? Seems like your notes indicate these never really get too hot.
2
I don’t have a photo but I will try to get one. The resistors I used I mounted inside the can about half way inside…just enough to clear the bulb. I used heat shrink over the solder joints to keep you being shocked by sticking your fingers inside. Mine never do get very hot…check my previous reports. The Thermal Overload is standard in any lighting can you buy…They are in series with the bulb and I think required by code.
Regards
Tim Alls
Thanks Tim.
worked perfectly!
You’re a genius! ;D
OK, just got the package with 20 of these from digikey. If someone could post a pic of their can install it would be very helpful to me. Thanks!
Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
OK, I installed 1 last night on a ge/jasco dimmer circuit to test. I have it suspended in the can and it was too hot to touch, but no hotter than an old 100 watt halogen I believe.
Will the temp drop once mounted to can?
Should I use a dab of thermal compound?
I have soldered leads to the remaining resistors, heatshrink the soldered leads per aschwabs notes and am ready to install on my remaining circuits this weekend however I am anxiously awaiting photos of other successful installs, and answer to my thermal compound question.
I do want to confirm that the circuit I installed the resistor on works flawlessly! It was only a 3 light circuit and tested with only 2 of the eco smart/cree refrofits from home depot.
Very excited to finally solve the madness , please post your install pics if you are reading this.
I’ll post some pics of what ive done so far also.
Thanks.
OK, I installed 1 last night on a ge/jasco dimmer circuit to test. I have it suspended in the can and it was too hot to touch, but no hotter than an old 100 watt halogen I believe. Will the temp drop once mounted to can? Should I use a dab of thermal compound? I have soldered leads to the remaining resistors, heatshrink the soldered leads per aschwabs notes and am ready to install on my remaining circuits this weekend however I am anxiously awaiting photos of other successful installs, and answer to my thermal compound question. I do want to confirm that the circuit I installed the resistor on works flawlessly! It was only a 3 light circuit and tested with only 2 of the eco smart/cree refrofits from home depot. Very excited to finally solve the madness , please post your install pics if you are reading this.Here are some photos of an install in a 6 inch can....the bigger cans like this allow the resistor to be all the way in the back and not visible once the bulb bracket goes in place.....Take a look Notes....soldering this resistor takes some heat.....make sure to insert the wire through the hole and give it enough heat to make a good bond....watch out for cold solder joints! Add heat shrink for extra shock protection.....make sure you are in PARALLEL with the bulb.....this makes the resistor act like another bulb on the circuit. Regards Tim Alls AllSeas Yachts
Note…
Notice in the photos that I attached the resistor very close to the thermal overload…this was to test the heat buildup in the circuit and see if I could trip the thermal overload…so far the thermal overload has not tripped for me, however, you may want to stay further away from it to play it safe…your conditions may be different than mine. After running the light at 100% for hours the can is warm to touch, it seems to handle the heat just fine. A little heat transfer compound wouldn’t hurt but I am not using it.
Regards
Tim Alls
AllSeas Yachts
Works flawlessly! I installed mine while the can was still in the ceiling so it was a bit of a challenge, but well worth it! I chose to mount them to the top of the can as it gives me comfort to know they are closer to the thermal cutoff for safety reasons.
Next challenge; installing in a wall mounted sconce. It makes me nervous as it would be mounted to the drywall essentially, or possibly hack a GU base adapter and let the resistor sit inside the glass. My fixtures will accept 200 watt bulbs and have porcelain sockets so I may be OK, any thoughts?
Picture of my install before splicing the socket back in
The Commercial Electric T85 work like a charm with Leviton Dimmers (RZI06). They even work with only one light connected to the dimmer. I have been struggling with LED’s for years and these are the only ones I have found that actually reliably dim without flickering and don’t need a dummy load or incandescent bulb installed in the circuit. On top of it, they look great too with no gaps around the light source and a nice clean white trim to replace my old trim that aged to yellow.
Hi,
I’m new to the forum, but this conversation has been invaluable to me. I have lutron dimmers and their tech support recommended their “synthetic minimum load” which requires a double gang box and costs 180 dollars!!! I knew there had to be a cheaper way…
Do to the massive crawl (standing) space above my ceilings, I will be mounting one of the 25W 1.5K resistors in a simple metal electrical box and wiring it in parallel to the circuit.
Are there any reasons I should be wary of the setup? And what happens if I sell the house and they want to go back to incandescent. Should this resistor be removed or no big deal leaving it?
@TimAlls, your write ups were hugely helpful, especially considering I may be doing this on my boat next…
I’m wondering if any one has tried the Fibaro Bypass instead of the resistor approach. The Fibaro Bypass is probably just a capacitor and resistor in series, so the parts could also be purchased fairly cheaply. So question is: does the Fibaro Bypass also solve the dimming problems and if so what’s in a “Fibaro Bypass” exactly? It may be possible to avoid wasting the dummy load power all together, if it’s just a capacitor and resistor combination.
@TimAlls, your write ups were hugely helpful, especially considering I may be doing this on my boat next...No Problem.....it is good for all of us to share information rather than repeating the same mistakes.
Just another update…for non-Zwave dimmers…Lutron has a new dimmer, the Lutron Maestro C-L, is made for CF bulbs and for LED’s! I just installed a couple and they took care of the flickering and their dimming seems to be more linear.
FYI
Thanks
Tim Alls
Allseas Yachts
for 110v tim alls solution is a good one or a dale rh-25. For 220v dimmers use Fibar FGB001 in parallel with led light , it can be put in a mains box as it automaticly switch off at 105 degrees which is a good security feature to prevent fire. (tested over a year now with 2x 8Watt dimmable led running on 5% dimlevel every day for about 6 hours and with a 4x4Watt dimmable led running 100% for 12 hours a day, also tested both for 48 hours at 100% level)
dimmers up to 1000 Watt need 25 watt minimum load to work properly, so putting a load of 25 Watt will even work with 0,5Watt led light and it will dimm it all the way. you can offcourse take a smaller one if you have more lights on it but if one fails ur sitting with the same problem of flickering. you be wanting to cut the current and not the voltage.
Great post and thanks to TimAlls for the helpful info and instructions. I have a room with 6 Halo cans using the EcoSmart soft white retro-fit LED bulbs from Home Depot. I am using a URC/Lutron dimmer that works with my universal remote control so changing the dimmer was not an option. Had bad flickering problems right from the start. I put in one incandescent bulb and it fixed the problem but I wanted all of them to be LED!
Got very excited when I found this thread and ordered the 25W resistor. I placed it in one can, screw mounted at the top next to the heat sensor. Everything looked great but the one light clicked off after a minute. The resistor was too hot to touch and the top of the can was obviously very hot as well. Wondering if I did something wrong?
Your resistor appears to be 220 Ohms not 1.5K (1500 Ohms) as others are using. Your resistor will draw half an amp and dissipate 55 Watts on 110 volts. That’s why it’s getting a bit hot!
[url=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm[/url]
a picture of installation of a fibaro dimmer with load
as you can see it only uses 1 to bring up the load on the dimmer to a 25Watts minimum for a 500W dimmer.
you require p=v?/R 25=220?/R (utf8 problems : 25=(220220)/R )
for 110v 25=110?/R ( 25= (110110)/R )
R = resistance u need.
the resistor needs to be able to dissipate the load its being given. so this would make in this case a 25W version or perhaps 50W so it will stay nice n cool
do not mind the colors of wires in my setup as i just took what wire i had available.
as you can see the load is connected to the output on the dimmer itself
For 220v dimmers use Fibar FGB001 in parallel with led light , it can be put in a mains box as it automaticly switch off at 105 degrees which is a good security feature to prevent fire.Did you figure out what's inside a FGB001? They are not too expensive so it probably isn't worth trying to substitute with passive components but I'm just interested in their solution. Does it dissipate any heat?
well i turned the led lights on (4 of 4 Watts Cree) and have them on since 6 o clock so thats about 4 hours. the thing gets hardly warm. it is like 20 degrees temp or so.
i looked at there http://materialy.fibaro.com/instrukcje/bypass%20FGB001.pdf and as you can see it is attached different then i have mine.
i use separate 220v mains to power the fibaro, which makes a huge difference.
the thing gets hardly warm.It must be reactive then. That's a much better solution than having a dummy load eating more watts than the LEDs. :o That somewhat defeats the energy-saving aspect of LED lighting. ??? Sounds like another well-engineered solution.
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