“…The GE Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control On/Off Switch enables wireless control of on/off functions of hard-wired incandescent, LED, xenon, halogen and fluorescent lighting.”
Why doesn’t it work? I thought all on/off switches would control a fluorescent load.
That being said, I like my Levitons (switches and dimmers) better than any of the other brands. I’ve got some of each brand, and while the others work fairly well, the Levitons are by far my favorites.
I second CMRancho’s choice in using leviton switchs and dimmers. They are of great quality and have a 5 year warranty. I have not had any issues (knock on wood) with mine. They are more then GE stuff, but well worth the extra cost.
In your case with the GE switch, any standard relay type switch should be able to control a fluorescent bulb. Makes me wonder either a: you have a faulty switch or b: it is not wired correctly.
[quote=“CMRancho, post:2, topic:167394”]Why doesn’t it work? I thought all on/off switches would control a fluorescent load.
…[/quote]
No, they don’t. Pure electronic switches work well with incandescent lamps and other resistive loads but fluorescent lamp has an “inductor type” ballast in its circuit and ideally needs old-fashioned electromechanical relay.
In my case switch wiring was OK, but fluorescent lamp started flashing when I turned switch ON.
I read manual carefully and found the following:
Maximum Loads: 600W, incandescent, ½ HP Motor or 1800W
(15A) Resistive
No mention of fluorescent lamps, magnetic ballast etc.
Below is a link to the article on electrical ballasts in WiKi
These switches do work with pretty much ANY bulb type so long as you have a neutral present. I have a few CFLs and LEDs controlled by this switch, as it is relay based!
The spec on the switch is correct and something else is wrong with your wiring or set up!
Are you sure you never got sent the dimmer by mistake?
[quote=“strangely, post:6, topic:167394”]These switches do work with pretty much ANY bulb type so long as you have a neutral present. I have a few CFLs and LEDs controlled by this switch, as it is relay based!
The spec on the switch is correct and something else is wrong with your wiring or set up!
Are you sure you never got sent the dimmer by mistake?[/quote]
No, I just tried to turn it ON. I’m afraid the problem in the way this dimmer works. When you just click the switch (without holding it) it still turns light gradually to max, which is just fine with incandescent lamps but doesn’t work with the inductive ballast.
You have the wrong switch then as its not a dimmer! They must have sent you the 45606 then! Check the Part number!
45609 = regular On/Off switch that works with pretty much anything
45606 = dimmer and will not work with CFL’s (unless they are dimming capable and even then its still a crap shoot)
[quote=“strangely, post:8, topic:167394”]You have the wrong switch then as its not a dimmer! They must have sent you the 45606 then! Check the Part number!
45609 = regular On/Off switch that works with pretty much anything
45606 = dimmer and will not work with CFL’s (unless they are dimming capable and even then its still a crap shoot)[/quote]
I just bought (7) of the Intermatic CA3000 switches from automatedoutlet.com for $35 each, they are arriving Friday. I have 4 sets of switched outlets with CFL lamps on them in different rooms, and also since they are switched outlets, someone could plug in a large load into them (like a vacum or electric heater), and the current GE dimmers would blow up, the Radio Shack GE lamp switches do work, but of course don’t dim the CFLs, so for saftey I am replacing them with the CA3000’s. I also have some bathroom fan vent/lamps units that I will be switching with these, due to the inductive nature of the fan motor.
These switches also work with standard 3 or 4 way switches, as well, they are very nice. lets see how they work…
Note: I have read these switches make a lound “kerchunk” when switching on and off, that won’t bother me, it might bother you. The “WAF” is low, if you have to deal with that
A couple of things you need to keep in mind when dealing with Switches and Dimmers.
Total load, type of fixture you intend to use the switch/dimmer with, and not all CFLs are dimmable.
Generally speaking there are three kinds of switch/dimmers
Incandescent
Magnetic
Electronic (Most expensive)
The first is obvious but you have to pay attention to the load factor
The second can be used with dimmable CFLs and low voltage halogens but that depends on the switch/dimmer.
The third is used with LEDs.
Another thing you need to be aware of is the dimming factor which depends on the dimmer and the device itself. You’ll find this information on the technical specification sheets If you look for the technical spec on the Luthron, Cooper lighting and Leviton brand products. I don’t know much about ACT, GE and other off brand stuff. This figure will vary from one brand to another and gets a bit convoluted with LEDs. The dimming spec will tell you how low you can dim the light and sometime even the increment in the form of percentage in most cases. Hope this helps.
[quote=“virginian, post:1, topic:167394”]I was misled by the switch description on the SmartHomeUsa site:
“…The GE Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control On/Off Switch enables wireless control of on/off functions of hard-wired incandescent, LED, xenon, halogen and fluorescent lighting.”
FYI
RadioShack (TheShack!) still selling the last of their GE z-wave switches and outlets at a deep discount ($15-20). I just ordered a bunch. Hit their awful site and search for “z-wave”.
I hear mediocre reports about the 3-way switches but the outlets, 2-way switches and lamp modules seem solid.
[quote=“anthonyris, post:19, topic:167394”]FYI
RadioShack (TheShack!) still selling the last of their GE z-wave switches and outlets at a deep discount ($15-20). I just ordered a bunch. Hit their awful site and search for “z-wave”.
I hear mediocre reports about the 3-way switches but the outlets, 2-way switches and lamp modules seem solid.
.//A.[/quote]
I have just installed (14) of the 3 ways RS GE switches, only 3 of them are being used for their true “3-way” purpose, but they work fine, if you follow the directions. They are NOT wired as standard 3 ways, you need to connect the yellow traveller from the switch to the aux switch, and then it works just fine. These are even working with CFLs, they don’t dim them, and they act a little funky, but they do go on and off. FYI, these have “neutrals” as well, so that seems to be why they work.