[quote=“Z-Waver, post:97, topic:170458”][quote=“shawnwelsh, post:96, topic:170458”]When the GDC1 toggles, it is essentially “pressing” the 882LM’s button.[/quote]This is the key detail that is barely visible in the second video.
The GDO-3PS case has two external contacts that are wired to the button pads of the Chamberlain 882LM circuit board. When the Z-Wave contact closure “shorts” the external contacts, it is identical to someone pressing the button on the Chamberlain opener. It’s a nice project @shawnwelsh.
Though I lack the custom 3D printed case, I use a similar approach using a wireless garage door remote to control multiple doors.[/quote]
We looked at using the remote, but wanted to avoid the need to replace batteries. We also were thinking about H.A. adopters that don’t have soldering guns and professional security system installers that randomly encounter this issue while installing their system. The 3D printed shell just tidies everything up for a clean install.
[quote=“shawnwelsh, post:100, topic:170458”]I think Z-Waver’s method uses the 892LT and others have recommended the 882LM. The 892 does have two doors, but also has a battery to worry about replacing (and you’ll only know it’s dead when your Z-wave commands stop working). The 882 is hardwired and, though limited to a single door, will work as long as the control gives it power.[/quote]Sticking with Chaimberlain/Liftmaster a 894LT battery operated remote can control four doors.
You’re exactly right about changing the battery, and my initial design plan did include a transformer to power the remote via the AC that the Z-Wave relays utilize. I didn’t have the desired transformer on hand, and being lazy decided to deal with that at a later date. 2.3 years later… it’s still working well on the original watch battery. Perhaps I should be proactive and change the battery now.
@shawnwelsh - Though it may seem that I am being a detractor from your method, that is not the case. I really like your implementation. It is simple, professional, and complete. My method is a DIY project for someone that has some electrical and electronics knowledge and limited skill. Mine is not for the masses, as yours is.
[quote=“Z-Waver, post:102, topic:170458”][quote=“shawnwelsh, post:100, topic:170458”]I think Z-Waver’s method uses the 892LT and others have recommended the 882LM. The 892 does have two doors, but also has a battery to worry about replacing (and you’ll only know it’s dead when your Z-wave commands stop working). The 882 is hardwired and, though limited to a single door, will work as long as the control gives it power.[/quote]Sticking with Chaimberlain/Liftmaster a 894LT battery operated remote can control four doors.
You’re exactly right about changing the battery, and my initial design plan did include a transformer to power the remote via the AC that the Z-Wave relays utilize. I didn’t have the desired transformer on hand, and being lazy decided to deal with that at a later date. 2.3 years later… it’s still working well on the original watch battery. Perhaps I should be proactive and change the battery now.
@shawnwelsh - Though it may seem that I am being a detractor from your method, that is not the case. I really like your implementation. It is simple, professional, and complete. My method is a DIY project for someone that has some electrical and electronics knowledge and limited skill. Mine is not for the masses, as yours is.[/quote]
No worries, no offence taken. [My method may never see the light of day ] But I am thinking about doing the same sleeve with the remote now that you’ve pointed it out.
I tried soldering two wires to the switch on the 882LM and even though the wire are not connected to anything, as soon as I cannot the red and black wire to the GDO, the wall unit LED flashes slowly and the button no longer works. I don’t understand why this is happening, the wires are not even connected to anything. If I remove the wires the wall unit starts working again. I checked to see if it was locking, but the locking is a different set of flashes. Has anyone seen this before?
Try just using a plain wire between those 2 contacts you soldered the black and red wires to. No need to solder. Just make sure the wire connects to those 2 terminals. If the door opens, you have the correct terminals, if you get the same flashing, you have the wrong terminals. If I recall correctly from installing mine, there are 4 connector pads near where the switch pushes down. You may simply have used the wrong pair.
The link below says: “The MyQ systems also has line voltage on the wire going from the GDO to the wall button [882LM] to power various items contained in the wall button.”
If I understand this correctly, there is line voltage (120V in the US) to the button. Is this really true? I know the amperage is low but I am a bit surprised this is the case considering the type of wire and type of connection. If it is not line voltage than what is it that provides power to the 882LM?
There’s most definitely not 120V going from the GDO to the wall controller as the supplied wire is far to thin a gauge to carry that amount of current. I’d have to put a multi meter on mine but I’m assuming it’s like 5V. Enough to prower the LED’s and the circuitry on the wall controller.
The link below says: “The MyQ systems also has line voltage on the wire going from the GDO to the wall button [882LM] to power various items contained in the wall button.”
If I understand this correctly, there is line voltage (120V in the US) to the button. Is this really true? I know the amperage is low but I am a bit surprised this is the case considering the type of wire and type of connection. If it is not line voltage than what is it that provides power to the 882LM?[/quote]
Thanks for spotting that. It is a n error and has been fixed. I meant voltage not line voltage. It is definitely NOT 120vac.
As BofH mentioned, it is most likely something small like 5 volts.
As for the problem at hand. It sounds to me like your connection is shorting somewhere.
[quote=“Jamr, post:112, topic:170458”]Thanks for spotting that. It is a n error and has been fixed. I meant voltage not line voltage. It is definitely NOT 120vac.
As BofH mentioned, it is most likely something small like 5 volts.
…[/quote]
Thanks for the responses. So that wire is carrying a small DC voltage to the 882 while also serving as the communication line. That all makes a lot more sense now.
I recently replaced a failed garage door opener with a Chamberlain myQ unit. I was happy to see there was a Vera plugin for myQ. I installed the GDO and then setup the plugin. Everything seemed to go smoothly and I can open and close my new GDO through my VeraLite. My question has to do with the device type. The myQ plugin creates a device type of a Door Lock (category 7, sub 0) while my Linear GD00Z-4 creates a device type of a Garage Door Switch (category 3, sub 5). I was wondering why? I would like to have both Garage Door Openers listed in the same grouping so I don’t have to scan up and down the page to find my right and left GDO. Does anyone know if there are any plans to update this plugin? If so, would you please consider making it a Garage Door Switch with the next update? I only suggest the myQ be changed since the Linear is part of the MCV baseline now so, it should be the standard.
I have a new Liftmaster garage door with MyQ. Trying to get the plugin to work. In Vera the app shows under Devices, MyQ, MyQ Setup I entered my user name and password for the app:
MYQ DEVICES FOUND:
Number of garage doors / gates found: Username not configured. Password not configured.
Plug in has been dead for about 6 months now since MyQ changed their API, it is not a public API so requires someone to reverse engineer it to get it working again (aka MyQ wants to charge folks for using their API so the plugin is unlikely to ever work again). One option is to integration with IFTTT if you are just wanting to open/close the door. If you need open/close awareness you probably will need to add a sensor to your door. There are also some hacks to get it working with the Go Control you can also find here. Just search for MyQ and Go Control or IFTTT to find some options.
] But I am thinking about doing the same sleeve with the remote now that you’ve pointed it out. 