@Jamr - If one already has a MyQ installed, why would they not just use the MyQ Plugin rather than all this additional hardware and work that doesn’t require or rely on the MYQ at all?
Unfortunately the MyQ plugin works by connecting to the MyQ website and is thus not 100% reliable. It opens/closes my door about 80% of the time.
I would rather not solder on my MyQ control but I saved the old opener wall control of my Craftsman opener. I may try and connect that in parallel and see if it will trigger my GDO. if so, I can connect the RM10 to that one instead. The cost of an RM10 would be a small price to pay to be rid of the dependency on the MyQ website.
@Jamr - If one already has a MyQ installed, why would they not just use the MyQ Plugin rather than all this additional hardware and work that doesn’t require or rely on the MYQ at all?[/quote]
Z-Waver, that is always an option, but it sounds like the plug in is not 100%
With our hard wire solution you get the best of both. Your MyQ works perfectly and control, automation and monitoring of your garage door.
[quote=“BOFH, post:82, topic:170458”]Unfortunately the MyQ plugin works by connecting to the MyQ website and is thus not 100% reliable. It opens/closes my door about 80% of the time.
I would rather not solder on my MyQ control but I saved the old opener wall control of my Craftsman opener. I may try and connect that in parallel and see if it will trigger my GDO. if so, I can connect the RM10 to that one instead. The cost of an RM10 would be a small price to pay to be rid of the dependency on the MyQ website.[/quote]
From what i have learned from Chamberlain and LiftMaster, the MyQ system triggers the GDO via RF like your transmitter in your car so I am not entirely sure you can even trigger the GDO with a short on the GDO input. The wires going to your wall button, carry a voltage for the light, motion and clock in some of the MyQ wall buttons. If this voltage is shorted, it causes problems for some or all of those devices in the wall button.
You may be able to use diodes from the old wall button to keep the wires from shorting going to the MyQ wall button. I hope that makes sense.
If your GDO will trigger with a short on the input, then you may be able to do what you are proposing while keep the MyQ wall button happy.
Jamr, you are correct about the wiring. Apart from RF (900Mhz) you can also trigger the GDO via the wall control which is hardwired. Myy old non MyQ wall controller worked with the GDO that way as well. I would not be shorting the 2 wires but basically short the 2 connection points inside the control like the button does to emulate pressing same. I’m assuming I can connect the old wall control in parallel to the MyQ wall control I replaced it with. If I can do that and emulate the button push by wiring to the internal connection points, I can use the RM10 or even Shawn’s controller to control my MyQ/Assurelink setup directly.
My only issue right now is to figure out where I put that old controller figuring it would be safe there. Even though the MyQ manual states to throw it away.
I happen to have a MyQ garage door opener, and the MyQ gateway. That being said I have no intention of letting chamberlain know if I am home or not. I also don’t like the idea that the system only works when their software is up. Lastly, I have 2 chamberlain garage door openers, which means I have 2 perfectly good network connected motion sensors I cannot use.
How much interest is there in having a Vera plugin that actually controls the MyQ gateway instead of sends commands to chamberlain?
I am looking at 2 possibilities of how to cleanly control the MyQ series of garage door openers.
Download the code on my PIC18F67J60 revision E MyQ gateway, and replace the HTTP client with a SSH server.
This has the advantage of working with existing MyQ devices, however it has the distinct disadvantage of requiring users be able to flash their own MyQ devices (requires a pic programmer) and that they have the same or a compatible revision of hardware.
That gets me to Option #2 (The easier one) for users…
it is clear to me that quite a few people want to control their garage door openers. How many people out there have a My Q compatible garage door opener that would be willing to buy a new push button at $50 with native zwave and Micasa verde support?
Are there other features that this garage door button could add that would make it nicer? (Though more expensive).
Note. I haven’t run the numbers, but baring a reasonable run size, $50 is zwave, push button, and motion sensor. To be able to add things such as the touch screen on an existing garage door remote I would have to either increase the cost, or have more units produced to decrease the cost per unit. That being said, once its zwave you can access all of the menu features from your phone.
A month ago I would have jumped on this but I’ve since installed the Telguard GDO zwave controller and that one works like a charm for me.
$50 for a new wall controller that would allow z-wave and cut the cord to the MyQ servers to me is a great price. I don’t really see the need for a touchscreen on it but some may want that and be willing to pay extra.
[quote=“BOFH, post:87, topic:170458”]A month ago I would have jumped on this but I’ve since installed the Telguard GDO zwave controller and that one works like a charm for me.
$50 for a new wall controller that would allow z-wave and cut the cord to the MyQ servers to me is a great price. I don’t really see the need for a touchscreen on it but some may want that and be willing to pay extra.[/quote]
Are you UI5,6 or 7?
Will the Telguard GDC1 work on all of them?
How do you like the installation of a wired door sensor versus a wireless/batter operated one like on the GD00Z?
I noticed it does not give a visual and audible warning if the door is being OPENED. Is this correct?
We just installed the GD00Z on the UI7 (Unfortunately it only works on UI7) and it works great also.
I run it on Ui5 at this time but since it kinda fools Vera into thinking it’ sa binary switch, it should work on UI7.
It does have both a visual and audible warning when the door goes down as the unit has both a siren and a red strobe but you are corrcet, no visual/audible indication on door opening. But neither does the MyQ system as it’s not required by UL. Mounting the wired sensor was pretty easy and it works well. I do like not having to worry about replacing the battery like on my EcoLink tilt sensor.
Connection is a piece of cake.
Connect 2 wires to the GDO unit (same location where the wall control wires go)
run the wiring for the sensor along the top of the track (at least on my Craftsman unit as it has clips there) and connect to the sensor wires
connect the power
Assuming you had it near Vera and paired it before, that’s all that needed apart from mounting the GDC1 on the ceiling and the sensor right above the garage door. I like that sensor location better than one at the side that’s more easily to bump.
If you require a a siren or a blinking light when your garage door opens, that is easy enough to realize with a scene that runs a zwave sireb/strobe for eg 10 seconds before you have it open the garage door itself.
Last I heard between middle of and end of this month. If Shawn from Telguard (who is active here) reads this he may be able to give you a better answer.
Thanks BOFH for the answers.
As I do work out in the garage quite a bit, I like not getting the heck scared out of me when my very significant other opens the garage door without warning. The notification of a door opening that is included in the GD00Z is nice although I do wish the GD00Z had an option of a wired sensor as the battery issue for the tilt sensor is a pain in the butt.
The Telguard GDC1 is out (seach in this forum and online) and I have a special bonus for this thread…
The problem with MyQ isn’t that it has a proprietary gateway. It is that they also blocked third party wall consoles from working by introducing the Security+ 2.0 protocol. This protocol means that the good ol’ door relay closure won’t work anymore. This means that you MUST use their closed system for any interaction, period, if the system is Security+ 2.0 compliant.
Well, annoyed by this, my son and I built the GDO-3PS (Garage Door Opener 3rd Party Sleeve). The concept is this.
Purchase the 882LM as cheaply as you can online. This is the Chamberlain Wall Console that supports the Security+ 2.0 protocol.
Remove the screws and pop the PCB out of the 882LM housing.
Pop the PCB back into the GDO-3PS.
Add the screws back to the 3PS.
Wire the S+2.0 GDO to the 3PS.
Wire the third party product to the 3PS’s terminal block.
Mount the 3PS.
Enjoy using Z-Wave products like the Telguard GDC1 to control your formally MyQ only garage door.
I’m looking for a few early adopters. I’m doing this on my own with my 14 year old son to teach him the engineering and business ropes, so a donation to our KickStarter would be where to start. They are 3D Printed. I’ll come back when he has the KickStarter ready to go. Until then, PM me if you are interested. We’re making 50 to start with.
While you clearly explained how to remove screws and replace screws, I’m not understanding how this works. How is this different than connecting the Telguard GDC1 directly to the garage door opener drive unit? Perhaps a wiring diagram would be a bit clearer that a video on how to turn screws.
P.S. Kudos for doing this with your 14 year old son. Way to make me feel like a failure at fatherhood.
[quote=“Z-Waver, post:94, topic:170458”]While you clearly explained how to remove screws and replace screws, I’m not understanding how this works. How is this different than connecting the Telguard GDC1 directly to the garage door opener drive unit? Perhaps a wiring diagram would be a bit clearer that a video on how to turn screws.
P.S. Kudos for doing this with your 14 year old son. Way to make me feel like a failure at fatherhood.[/quote]
Connecting it directly to the GDO isn’t possible because the GDOs enabled with Security+ 2.0 (MyQ and AssureLink models from LiftMaster, Chamberlain and Sears) cannot be triggered with a toggle. They must use the encrypted serial protocol embedded in products like the 882LM. This sleeve connects the toggle control from the GDC1 or any other toggle-driven unit (GD00Z, etc.) to the 882LM’s button rendering the serial protocol moot and making it so that you don’t have to worry with soldering. When the GDC1 toggles, it is essentially “pressing” the 882LM’s button.
[quote=“shawnwelsh, post:96, topic:170458”]When the GDC1 toggles, it is essentially “pressing” the 882LM’s button.[/quote]This is the key detail that is barely visible in the second video.
The GDO-3PS case has two external contacts that are wired to the button pads of the Chamberlain 882LM circuit board. When the Z-Wave contact closure “shorts” the external contacts, it is identical to someone pressing the button on the Chamberlain opener. It’s a nice project @shawnwelsh.
Though I lack the custom 3D printed case, I use a similar approach using a wireless garage door remote to control multiple doors.
[quote=“fusion600, post:98, topic:170458”]I have 4 garage doors, how many units do I need?[/quote]With @shawnwelsh system you’d need four each of the Chamberlain 882LM, GDO-3PS case, and Z-Wave relays.
With my DIY setup you’d still need four Z-Wave relays, but only two wireless garage door remotes, as each remote can control two or three doors.
The 3PS uses the Chamberlain 882LM (~$15 each) and was created to completely avoid soldering or the need to ever replace batteries. Two things that professional installers may appreciate if they arrive at a house and the salesperson sold a Z-Wave Garage door controller, but didn’t realized that it was the Security+ 2.0.
For the DIYer with a soldering gun just put a wire on each side of the button and be done with it. I think Z-Waver’s method uses the 892LT and others have recommended the 882LM. The 892 does have two doors, but also has a battery to worry about replacing (and you’ll only know it’s dead when your Z-wave commands stop working). The 882 is hardwired and, though limited to a single door, will work as long as the control gives it power.
Even though the MyQ manual states to throw it away.