3 way switch with GE 45609

Does a 3 way switch usually have a Load wire connected to each switch or does only one of the two switches get a load wire connected?

Only one of the two switches get a load wire connected (the main) the auxiliary does not connect either line or load. It gets connected to Neutral and your Traveller.

For 3-way installations with the GE 45609 Z-Wave switch you need to use a GE 45614 Switch Kit which consists of a 456709 switch and a 45610 auxiliary switch.

The load wire is connected only to the primary 45609 switch.

It is not possible to use a standard switch as an auxiliary in a 3-way with the 45609, if that is what you are trying.

See the attached diagram.

This is where I am very confused. It looks like both light switches have the same wiring.

The first picture (name ends in 18) is the light switch at the bottom of my stairs and it has a line, load and traveler (red) wire.

The second picture (name ends in 51) at the top of my stairs looks to have the exact same wiring.

Do I just not connect the line or load to the second switch?

Anyone have any thoughts?

Wires might look the same, but one should be the hot coming in from a power source and the other switch should have wires going off to a load or light.

Never go buy colors and especially in a 3 way switch.

Us a multimeter to check the wires as there is more then a few ways to wire a 3 way switch.

For informational purposes only, I offer a link to a youtube video that may help you.

*edited to say this isn’t my video, just one that I found that I thought might prove useful.

Thanks Prim8. One last question. I see you connected (capped) the old load and line wires together that are no longer being used on the auxiliary switch. Is this safe since you are connecting a live wire that carries electricity to a load wire connected to a light? Wouldn’t I be better off cutting the wire so no copper is showing and then wrapping the end in black electrical tape?

Thank you

Jeff

I think the wire you are referring to is disconnected on both ends there for not “live”, but you’ll notice when you remove your switches all the live wires in the box are covered with a cap that screwed on to the end of the wire. I’m not sure what’s legal in your area so Electrical tape may not even be allowed to use and tape looses it stickiness and such after a period of time. You should never find live wires in an electrical box taped.

With that said if you feel more comfortable you can cut the cooper tip off then screw on a cap.

[quote=“jeff.cohen@sympatico.ca, post:4, topic:181056”]This is where I am very confused. It looks like both light switches have the same wiring.

The first picture (name ends in 18) is the light switch at the bottom of my stairs and it has a line, load and traveler (red) wire.

The second picture (name ends in 51) at the top of my stairs looks to have the exact same wiring.

Do I just not connect the line or load to the second switch?

Anyone have any thoughts?[/quote]
I can’t tell what you have from these pictures. As others have stated, the wire color is not always relevant. Certainly you can never assume the wire’s function. You must positively identify each wire and the type of circuit that you have. Some 3-ways have the line come into the the light itself. As you can see on this page there are several ways for 3-way circuits to be configured with standard switches.

I have completed the GE 3 way switch (GE part # 45614) setup as someone suggested which is below.

  1. Main switch has line, load, neutral and traveler
  2. Second switch has only Neutral and traveler and I capped the power and load.

In this setup I do not get any power to the lights. If I press turn the switch on from the secondary switch I hear the main switch click. This tells me that that the traveler is working correctly.

More details of my current wiring not using zwave switches are below.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Thank you,

Jeff

[quote=“jeff.cohen@sympatico.ca, post:10, topic:181056”]I have completed the GE 3 way switch (GE part # 45614) setup as someone suggested which is below.

  1. Main switch has line, load, neutral and traveler
  2. Second switch has only Neutral and traveler and I capped the power and load.

In this setup I do not get any power to the lights. If I press turn the switch on from the secondary switch I hear the main switch click. This tells me that that the traveler is working correctly.

More details of my current wiring not using zwave switches are below.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Thank you,

Jeff[/quote]

Main switch will work by it’s self. So for now just to keep it simple and since you have no lights working, Just play with the main until that’s fixed. Then we can add the 2 wires to the AUX.

Does the blue light come on, on the main switch?
If it does that means you have hot (line) and neutral in the right place. If it doesn’t lets start there. And if does we need to check for power on the back of the switch at the load wire coming out of the switch. If load has power then switch ok and problem in the wiring going to load. If no power out then switch bad.

Start with that and let’s see how far we get.

EDIT: Does both switch boxes have 2 sets of romex in them? You might have power in one box and load coming out the other box. Which the above wiring diagram would be void. Check this first.

Well after reading your first post again I think I’m correct in that both boxes have the same wires coming in to them, which should be 2 set’s of romex in each. One romex is going to be a 3 wire plus ground and others going to be a 2 wire plus ground in each. If so continue on… if not, the rest don’t apply.

The 3 wires run from one switch to another.

The 2 wires are quiet different and you need to know first which is which. One is the hot coming in and ones the light going out. This is tested by removing the 2 switches and and checking for 120v between the black and white of the 2 double wire romex’s. the One coming in is going to have power the load going out will not. That determines your line and load wires (both will be black but in different boxes)

After that follow this diagram.