the 220 volt connection looks like it is the line voltage to the door bell and there is a stepdown transformer inside the white control box, if you hook a relay to the 220 volt it would be energized all the time and do you no good. the door bell terminal is the low voltage wire that goes to the push button but not sure what voltage it is, you would need a meter to verify and hooking a relay up there is not really going to work because it would then be wired in parallel with the door bell push button, you need to open the cover where the wires go to the magnetic coil that makes the door bell chime and wire in a relay in parallel with that so when the door bell is rung the relay energizes, then wire the normally closed set of contacts on the relay to a zwave door window sensor.
Sorry it took me so long to reply, but I have been away, I highly appreciate your help.
So I have removed the white control box and there are two wires which go straight into magnetic relay(basically wires from relay connected to the board), so is it enough for me just weld extra two wires and connect them to fibaro sensor or do I still need to purchase the relay?
I have attached the picture so you can see the insides.
Hopefully somebody will advise as I would like to finish this project over the weekend.
The Fibaro door sensor needs a “normally closed” switch connection - which in this case will need to be provided by a relay.
As was pointed out earlier, the relay you purchase will have its solenoid coil connections wired in parallel with the two wires going to your doorbell’s solenoid. Relays are rated by the voltage required to energize their coil as well as the voltage/current carrying capacity of their switch contacts. In your application the voltage/current carrying capacity of the relay’s switch contacts is not important - any rating will do fine. However, in order to determine the voltage rating of the relay coil you will first need to determine how much voltage is being provided to the doorbell’s solenoid when the doorbell button is being pushed - this you will need to do with a voltage meter applied to the two wired connections going to the doorbell solenoid. From the appearance of the components on your doorbell’s circuit board (one diode and a few capacitors and resistors) it is likely the doorbell solenoid is being provided with a DC voltage/current - so use your voltage meter’s DC voltage setting when doing your measurement. Mostly likely that voltage will be somewhere in the range of 6 to 24 volts.
Thanks for quick reply, but as I’m not very good in electrics, can you please take a look at the picture and advise is this an area where i need to measure the voltage?
Yes - at the two wires you circled in the picture. You can best access these wires (and eventually solder two additional wires for the relay) at the point they are soldered to the “foil trace” side (opposite of the “component” side shown in your photo) of the circuit board. Be very careful when you are doing any measurements while this board is powered - parts of its circuitry are of course connected directly to the 230V mains.
I am not sure if you have resolved this yet. As you have the doorbeel in situ and you have mains and a low voltage twin core going to the doorbell push you could do the following.
You could get a qubino 1D relay and add it to the bell box. Power it directly from the mains. Then use the dry contacts on the relay to trigger the doorbell as you can do this with a scene from your door/window sensor.
Also the door/ window sensor can be changed from normally closed to normally open by changing parameter 3 to 1 as opposed to zero.
This option does require another zwave device but also allows you to trigge the doorbell via other scenes as well, like garage door open, front door open for x time etc.
Hi guys,
I’ve managed to get my hands back on this project, when I used my multimeter to see what the voltage is when the door bell is pushed it was jumping between lowest 1.2V and highest 5V as I’m not the electrician, would somebody so kind and advise what voltage relay I should by?
Is it 5V relay required or lower voltage?
I would guess it should be reading more like 12V.
One thought, when using the multimeter were you set on ac or dc. I would expect you to have about 12V ac.
Also, most transformers will state their voltage. eg: 230/12V
Edit. Just spotted the comment above that says dc is expected. Most door bells of this type I know are ac.
The pulse sounds like it could be dc (or at least z very rough version of it) so you can go back to using the ac setting but without going the whole hog and dismantling more, its difficult to know where to go next.
Using the dc setting how do the volts go. Up and down or starting at one level and settling at another.
Try testing the volts across the bell push terminals without pressing the bell. You may get a better reading as the bell itself will not be pulling the volts down.
As probably you’ve seen on my third reply I posted the picture of the board and it looks very simple two wires from mains coming into the board and two wires coming from push bell and another two black wires are going into magnetic relay I believe this is how it’s called.
So I was measuring the voltage at these two black wires is that correct? Or I should measure it somewhere else?
If the power is so low do I really need the relay to make it work with the fibaro door sensor? I’m a bit confused now
One problem you may have is that the power from the transformer is only just enough to energise the solenoid which pulls in the rod which rings the chime. That’s why i suggest measuring at the bell push terminals without pressing the bell. That way, if i guess the circuit correct, you should get the volts with no load. However, if the solenoid does pull down the volts it may mean that the relay you use does not work properly.
Sometimes, with things like this it is a case of trial and error.
You need to connect the two black wires, going to the bell, to the relais (voltage side). As the next step you need to connect two wires from the relais (switch side) to the Fibaro door sensor (switch input), that’s it. Hope this helps…
