Hi Guys
I’m having a problem wiring up a hallway switch with a Fibaro dimmer.
The wiring at both switches looked like this:
Hallway switch 1 original.jpg
I have wired the dimmer at one end like this with a momentary switch.
Hallway switch 1 with fibaro dimmer.jpg
Operating the dimmer via the attatched switch or remotely works fine. The issue is at the other switch. I am trying to fit another momentary switch at the other end. The wiring at this switch is the same as in the first picture i.e. one single red wire going into the common, and a then a red and black wire to the other connections on the switch. As the (normally open) momentary switch has only 2 connectors I have tried connecting black to common red on one side and the other red to the other connector. When I try and use this switch just after releasing it the lights go off briefly and then come straight back on. I have also tried changing parameter 17 to 0 and 1 at the Vera, and that has not helped. I suspect my dimmer wiring might be the issue. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Your wiring looks like a fairly normal two-way circuit. See: twoway.png. You need to determine which of the switches has the live feed on the single red wire. You can do this by disconnecting the single reds at both switches, turning the power back on and carefully checking with a live-circuit detector or voltmeter. You would need a ground connection for the voltmeter and I don’t see one in your photo but you could run a long wire to something that is definitely grounded. The detector is the easiest way. If you don’t have a live-circuit detector, get one! The best (IMHO) is the KewTech kewstick duo which has selectable sensitivity and both visual and audible indications. Now turn the power back off.
When you know which switch has the live feed, put the dimmer with the other switch and change the wiring to: twowaydim.png.
If you want to put the dimmer with the switch that is currently getting the live feed, you could swap the two single red wires in the light fixture or ceiling rose so that live goes to the other switch.
RexBeckett,
Many thanks for the detailed response and advice, it is really appreciated! I searched for the KewTech kewstick duo online, and could only find it on a number of UK sites, and none of them would ship to Australia, perhaps due to manufacturers terms. I have ordered a “Fluke 2AC Non Contact VoltAlert Voltage Detector Pen Tester” from an Australian supplier.
The other switch (not pictured) is in a 3 gang box. There is an earth in this box. The red wire to the common terminal of the hallway light switch (in the 3 gang) is also connected to the common terminals of the other 2 switches (different lights). Assume that (although would need to test with the detector), it is highly likely that it is the 3 gang switch box that has the live feed, and that if so, the Fibaro dimmer would need to be fitted into the single gang box (pictured), using the wiring as per twowaydim.png?
Vesternet have a useful set if application notes on installing Dimmers in different scenarios.
This one covers installing fibaro dimmer in a 2 wire situation:
http://www.vesternet.com/resources/application-notes/apnt-1?key=13775017321597193930#.UhsCJ6a9LCQ
Assume that (although would need to test with the detector), it is highly likely that it is the 3 gang switch box that has the live feed, and that if so, the Fibaro dimmer would need to be fitted into the single gang box (pictured), using the wiring as per twowaydim.png?
I agree with your conclusion. The common connection for the three switches is almost certainly live. You intuitively already fitted the FGD211 in the right wall-box. :)
Shame you can’t get a Kewstick duo down there but the Fluke will do the job. KEW is a Japanese company and I would expect them to ship all over the world but it appears that the Kewstick is produced by the UK franchise KewTech and is only available locally.
Hi Rexbecket, I just wanted to say a big THANK YOU! Its all wired up as per your twowaydim.png diagram and the hallway switches are now working great.
You are welcome, @DragonVera. Thanks for the feedback.
will this diagram work will toggle switch setup also
No - that requires different wiring. Vesternet have an application note that should help. See: this.
RexBeckett,
Given the suggested wiring in twowaydim.png, would I be able to connect another momentary switch to s1 and sx of the dimmer to control a scene? I’ve seen other posts on the topic, but none related to a 2-way setup
[quote=“DragonVera, post:10, topic:176629”]RexBeckett,
Given the suggested wiring in twowaydim.png, would I be able to connect another momentary switch to s1 and sx of the dimmer to control a scene? I’ve seen other posts on the topic, but none related to a 2-way setup[/quote]
Sx is internally connected to L so adding another momentary switch between Sx and S1 would just put it in parallel with the other switches. This is fine and would give you three control points for the lamp. I suspect that this isn’t what you wanted, though.
If you connect a switch between Sx and S2 it should control the auxiliary switch device in Vera (usually has a device ID two higher than the parent switch). Note that this apparently only works correctly on modules with the latest firmware.
No - that requires different wiring. Vesternet have an application note that should help. See: this.[/quote]
thanks for the reference but they have not showed the wiring diagram for 2 core wiring between the switch.
i presume the com will not be there.
Also in my installation there are only two wires between the swtich. One one side i have the Line and on the other side i have Neutral. Dose that means i have to run a extra cable on any one of the sides to give Line or Neutral to the dimmer.Please find the wiring diagram
The 2 way toggle switch means the switch are connect with 3 wires. i believe it is called Single Pole Double Throw tpye.
Hope someone can guide me. i am kind of stuck.
You don’t need to run another wire. Place the FGD211 at the end that feeds the lamp (right side of your diagram). Change the wiring at the left-hand switch to pass the Live feed via the red wire. The switched contact stays on the black wire which then connects to the FGD211 S2 terminal at the far end of the cable. Change the wiring at the right-hand switch to feed the Live from the red wire to the FGD211 L terminal and the switched wire goes to S1. See attached diagram.
Be very careful with the switch wiring. The red wire must be connected to the common terminal - sometimes marked COM. Connect the black wire to the switch’s L1 terminal and the L2 terminal will now be unused.
[quote=“RexBeckett, post:13, topic:176629”]You don’t need to run another wire. Place the FGD211 at the end that feeds the lamp (right side of your diagram). Change the wiring at the left-hand switch to pass the Live feed via the red wire. The switched contact stays on the black wire which then connects to the FGD211 S2 terminal at the far end of the cable. Change the wiring at the right-hand switch to feed the Live from the red wire to the FGD211 L terminal and the switched wire goes to S1. See attached diagram.
Be very careful with the switch wiring. The red wire must be connected to the common terminal - sometimes marked COM. Connect the black wire to the switch’s L1 terminal and the L2 terminal will now be unused.[/quote]
ok that means after the change in wiring out of the three termimals in the swtich only two terminals would be used in both the switched.
Thanks you made my day. shall do it and confirm…
ok that means after the change in wiring out of the three termimals in the swtich only two terminals would be used in both the switched.
That is correct. The special bistable-two-way mode of the FGD211 only requires simple on/off (SPST) switches.
[quote=“RexBeckett, post:15, topic:176629”]
ok that means after the change in wiring out of the three termimals in the swtich only two terminals would be used in both the switched.
That is correct. The special bistable-two-way mode of the FGD211 only requires simple on/off (SPST) switches.[/quote]
Finally it is working…
Now in the other room there are two points. have enclosed a wiring diagram. the reason to do this is to is as follows-
- there is very little space in the box to fit two fibaro module. so if my wiring works then i can have the fibaro module in two different boxes.
- the neutral end is in the corner of the room and it cannot connect to the HC2. if i have two modules in two different boxes it will be in the range of the HC2.
Will this wiring work…
Will this wiring work....
Yes - your wiring looks OK. Shouldn't you be asking questions about connecting Fibaro modules with Fibaro HC2 on the Fibaro forum, though? ::)
[quote=“RexBeckett, post:17, topic:176629”]
Will this wiring work…
Yes - your wiring looks OK. Shouldn’t you be asking questions about connecting Fibaro modules with Fibaro HC2 on the Fibaro forum, though? ::)[/quote]
i agree but actually i feel more comfortable out here. just feel i can share my thoughts here more freely as i been following this forum .
Sorry…hope you dont mind it…