What to do with Switch that won't pair - !!Resolved!!

Other Devices & Integrations Lighting & Load Control
1

I have a GE switch that will not pair with my VeraLite. Oddly when I go through the exclusion process the Vera will response with the appropriate flashing lights. But when I try to include it doesn’t do a thing.

Any ideas or is it just now a switch in the wall or can it be an accessory switch…bummed.

So I went home and pulled the Air Switch out for a few minutes and pushed it back in. Followed the inclusion process, low and behold the switch is now active!

2

I had the exact same issue with a handful of Leviton Vizia RF switches.

Somewhere on these forums, another user suggested a factory reset of the switches, which involved holding down the switch pad until the LED turned red. After that, I was able to pair those switches.

GE switches are completely different, but it’s possible that there’s a factory reset procedure for those as well.

3

Restoring Factory Defaults
All Configuration Parameters can all be restored to their factory
default settings by using your primary controller to delete/reset
the device.

lmao

4

I only buy Leviton… so I can’t tell you what to do with your specific hardware. But Google usually turns up something, like:

or

https://support.smartthings.com/hc/en-us/articles/200955890-Troubleshooting-GE-in-wall-switch-or-dimmer-won-t-respond-to-commands-or-automations-Z-Wave-

or

https://support.smartthings.com/hc/en-us/articles/200879274-How-to-connect-and-reset-a-GE-in-wall-switch-or-dimmer-Z-Wave-

or even

http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php?topic=12049.0

Good luck.

5

[quote=“DeltaNu1142, post:4, topic:190469”]I only buy Leviton… so I can’t tell you what to do with your specific hardware. But Google usually turns up something, like:

or

https://support.smartthings.com/hc/en-us/articles/200955890-Troubleshooting-GE-in-wall-switch-or-dimmer-won-t-respond-to-commands-or-automations-Z-Wave-

or

https://support.smartthings.com/hc/en-us/articles/200879274-How-to-connect-and-reset-a-GE-in-wall-switch-or-dimmer-Z-Wave-

or even

http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php?topic=12049.0

Good luck.[/quote]

going to try the air gap reset. explanation for that to replace bulbs is sensible, but didn’t think of it as almost a hard reset.
thx

6

I had a bulb that went bad on a jasco dimmer. Didn’t know it till the switch stopped functioning. Would not poll and so on. After a new bulb it worked perfectly. Directions never indicated this behavior would happen.

Good luck.

7

[quote=“tomtcom, post:6, topic:190469”]I had a bulb that went bad on a jasco dimmer. Didn’t know it till the switch stopped functioning. Would not poll and so on. After a new bulb it worked perfectly. Directions never indicated this behavior would happen.

Good luck.[/quote]

This is the problem with 2 wire z-wave switches (which they don’t make anymore). Since they don’t use (require) a neutral they have to back feed it threw the bulbs. If a Bulb is removed or burnt this can’t happened and the switch has no neutral leaving it powered down and wont work.

These switches also have issues with amount of watts on a circuit and certain LED bulbs.

Basically those were very picky and troublesome switches. GE got rid of those and now all require a 3rd wire or neutral which is more work for some but they work much better and can use LED bulbs and any number of watts.

8

[quote=“integlikewhoa, post:7, topic:190469”][quote=“tomtcom, post:6, topic:190469”]I had a bulb that went bad on a jasco dimmer. Didn’t know it till the switch stopped functioning. Would not poll and so on. After a new bulb it worked perfectly. Directions never indicated this behavior would happen.

Good luck.[/quote]

This is the problem with 2 wire z-wave switches (which they don’t make anymore). Since they don’t use (require) a neutral they have to back feed it threw the bulbs. If a Bulb is removed or burnt this can’t happened and the switch has no neutral leaving it powered down and wont work.

These switches also have issues with amount of watts on a circuit and certain LED bulbs.

Basically those were very picky and troublesome switches. GE got rid of those and now all require a 3rd wire or neutral which is more work for some but they work much better and can use LED bulbs and any number of watts.[/quote]

Interesting, thank you for that. I can’t recall if this dimmer had the neutral but from what your telling me it couldn’t have based on the behavior observed. I installed a new Jasco dimmer in the kitchen the other day and I know for a fact that had a neutral. I also know the model #'s were different so guess that solves that part.

9

Even the boxes are different now. Green boxes and yes the part numbers have also changed. They even now have replaceable face plates and come with tan and white. This actually happened some time ago maybe even up to a year ago or slightly less.

If you have an old house without neutrals or are not electrically inclined the old 2 wire were an easy replacement since all non z-wave switches are also 2 wire (without a neutral) and it was basically a plug-in-play direct drop in. But as I said they are way more problems then the new ones. Whats good for some is not so good for others I guess.

10

All true. Now I remember over a year ago it was easy. In fact every other dam switch and receptacle is a pain. I suck as an electrician but I learned now what to do. And you are right, got the tan faceplate and everything. Fortunately I am lucky to have the neutral wires already.