Vodden's HA Poject-From Start to Finish

Hello again!

I know it has been a long while since I have posted here, but things were at a bit of a standstill regarding my install and my project sat dormant for MONTHS. I was eagerly awaiting roofing contractors’ arrival to get things moving on this, but for some reason I fell to the bottom of their list up until a few weeks ago.

‘What do roofing contractors have to do with home automation?’ you ask. Well, directly, absolutely nothing. Indirectly, everything. The roofers didn’t just replace shingles. They built up the roof 6 inches and insulated it as well. (I guess the original home owner/builder didn’t think he required insulation OR lights in the house). I took this opportunity to wire my very dark house with 35 light fixtures, 6 in-wall switches, 10 micro-switches, 4 plug-ins, 2 ceiling fans, and over 1000 ft. of electrical wire! All of the wiring had to be ran on top of the roof due to the unique construction of the home, namely cathedral ceilings and log walls. Insulation was then sprayed on top of the wiring, then a new tin roof installed. I basically had one shot at this before it was sealed up forever, so I had to make sure it was done right! I had the install planned down to the wire months ago in anticipation of this happening, and managed to have everything installed correctly with the only mistake being that I installed a 3-wire run where a 2-wire run was needed. Better than the other way around…

This also meant that all the wiring had to make its way from the top of the roof to the new sub panel in the basement thru a chimney way, which meant ripping out one of my few drywall walls for access. Small price to pay.

I installed most of my micro-switches and dimmers in light boxes instead of switch boxes as the octagon boxes provide much more space than the receptacle boxes, and wire fill rules dictate that installing them in receptacle boxes would require a huge oversized box. I had already installed 1-1/2" box extensions on most of my light fixtures so they had plenty of room. I am controlling eave lighting with micro-dimmers, but due to our chilly winter climate here in Canada, I had to install them in boxes inside the house since the outdoor temperature extremes would be outside the operating temperature range of the device. This made for some very creative wiring runs!

I also installed 6 alarm panel zones; 2 door sensors, 2 motion sensors, a CO detector and a smoke/heat detector and ran to my panel in the basement thru the same chimney way. That cost me 500 ft of sensor wire to complete.

While I was at it, I figured I would also address internet connectivity as well, and installed 2 runs of Cat6 into the master bedroom for the soon-to-be-installed big screen in the bedroom with an MX III Android XBMC box and hardwired Sonos connection. This will be connected to an ethernet switch installed in the electrical/server room in the basement of the house where it will be connected to my router. I prefer hard wired connections over WIFI connections any day; more robust, quicker, and much more reliable.

I installed more IKEA 12V cable lighting, so dimming via Z-Wave with these devices is not an option as they use 120VAC to 12VDC transformers. I was hoping that an Arduino PCB for LED dimming would be available to use as a controller but I see it has yet to come available for use. I have built one on a prototype board but it will not fit inside the enclosure and its a mess of wires. Would much rather have a custom PCB built for purpose and the one that @rosskinard was working on looked fantastic. I am unsure if he managed to work out the bugs tho.

I get my final electrical inspection completed in two weeks when I can officially ‘flick the switch’, so the next few weeks will be spent getting the DSC alarm panel installed and wired so the panel talks with the Vera and the zones I have installed will work as triggers for scenes. I have already programmed the panel, installed all the cards in an enclosure, bench tested all the zones, and tested the plug in, so the final wire-in should bring few surprises.

I have also installed the sensor for my Dakota Alert driveway monitor so that will be wired to the panel via relay outputs on the receiver.

For those of you waiting for the results of the @RexBeckett fan controller, I ran into a few snags with an undersized voltage regulator and had to order a higher capacity unit. I still haven’t soldered it in yet but I promise I will do it soon as I need it for my fan controls on my newly installed fans.

Keep you posted!

General Electrical

Everything is wired, installed, inspected, and approved (without using an electrical contractor I can proudly say). The switch has been officially flipped!

Lighting and Controls

With all the end devices and switches in place, I associated all the switches and wall controllers so the house behaves ‘normally’ when there is no controller present. Very few of my lights have a hard wired wall switch, so associations were necessary in a lot of instances. I have a bank of wall switches that were in place when I bought the house, so I replaced all of them with in-wall controllers (Linear’s) and associated them with the switches that I wanted them to control. I used mostly micro-dimmers and switches, and associating them was a snap. I documented the association process very thoroughly here and it worked as seamlessly with the micro-switches and dimmers as it did with the Linear wall switch.

I did stumble upon an interesting situation with a Linear controller associated with a micro-dimmer and a micro-switch. If you press and hold the controller ‘on’ button, only the light with the dimmer will turn on instead of both of them turning on with the press ‘on’. The same thing happens when you press and hold the ‘off’ switch. Only the light with the dimmer will turn off. This allows for both on, both off, dimmer on, switch on, dim up and dim down functions all with only one controller. The trick was to associate them correctly. That process is outlined here.

I decided to go the LED route with all my lighting, for efficiency and maximum dimmer load concerns. Most circuits would have had too much draw with incandescent or halogen lighting and would go over the maximum rating of every dimmer I installed, so LED’s solved that issue. I did a little impromptu testing with the micro dimmers, and they function seamlessly with as low as a 7w load. I didn’t take the time to do the same with the Linear, but I have 15-7w lamps for a total load of 105w and there are no issues there either, not that I expected any.

I believe that I have one faulty micro-dimmer, as it is flickering the lights under dimmer conditions, and I’m guessing it will need to be replaced. I tried it with both the LED’s and conventional lamps, and the problems persists, so I suspect a faulty switch. It also will not report consumption.

I had to install one CooperAsire RF9500 battery operated wall switch in a spot where running any wiring was virtually impossible. Slick little rig. An expensive but necessary touch.

I’m still waiting on someone out there in Arduino land to build a suitable dimming board for my 12V lights. I know there are a few that are close, but so far, no dice. I actually took a stab at this myself using EagleCAD, which resulted in an epic FAIL. At least I tried…

XBMC Box

I received my MX III Android TV box with XBMC and installed every repository under the sun to be sure that I am sufficiently entertained. I installed the XBMCState app on the Vera from the MiOs app store and made sure the XBMC device IP was entered in the ‘ip’ field in the ‘Advanced’ tab of the plug-in. I also installed the MCV add-on into the XBMC app on the box and filled in and checked off all the necessary fields and everything works. This process is outlined in here. This will be used for programming scenes. I also installed AutHomation HD on the box to act as a remote controller since this will be in the Master Bedroom.

In Wall Touchscreen Controller

I ordered a 7" wall mounted Android controller for the front door which will also run AutHomation HD for control of the entire house, as well as act as a second keypad for the DSC security system. This is a flush mount unit from the same manufacturer and product line as the HomeSeer tabletop unit, purchased thru www.geekland.co. It is a POE device that will be hard wired to the LAN via a POE switch. I ordered it with a battery back up as well, so in the event of a power failure, the alarm keypad functionality will still work. I am still waiting for it to arrive.

RexBecket Arduino Fan Controller

Sigh

This project is killing me. After installing the beefier regulator, I discovered that POE power is 48VDC, not 12VDC.

Back to the drawing board…

PLEG

The logical next step after having all of the devices installed is to begin creating scenes. It seems that I am not very good at this. :frowning: However, I am very stubborn and persistent and don’t want to bother the ‘masters’ (Richard and Rex) with my programming problems. Instead, I am using all the tools they have created to try and find the solutions to these problems on my own. It has been very time consuming and frustrating, but I have noticed that when I finally get it work, the solution was clearly outlined in @RexBeckett’s PLEG manual somewhere. I have only managed to get a handful of scenes to work correctly, but I am slowly getting more and spend an hour or so on them every day. I have big expectations for conditional arguments, I just have to learn how to write them. :wink:

DSC Alarm

Didn’t get a chance to get any of this installed. My next step. Keep you posted!

[quote=“Vodden, post:62, topic:180819”]RexBecket Arduino Fan Controller

Sigh

This project is killing me. After installing the beefier regulator, I discovered that POE power is 48VDC, not 12VDC.

Back to the drawing board…[/quote]
Are you familiar with passive PoE?

The Ubiquiti Poe-15 15VDC 0.8A Output Power over Ethernet Adapter may work for you too, even if it is 15VDC. Just make sure you don’t get the standard Ubiquiti 24VDC.

I am familiar with this, and it would work for this single application, but there will also be my POE wall mount tablet and 2 POE powered IP cameras on the same system, so in order to keep things tidy in the server room, I think I will try to add a variable regulator in series (max 40v I/O diff. and 48v-3.3>40) that can do what I need instead of a passive injector and use the planned PoE switch for power supply. When that fails, I will do what you suggested ;D

All part of the learning curve…

Thanks for your input :slight_smile:

DSC Alarm Panel

Finally made a little headway on this. I spent the better part of yesterday wiring up my panel, and started by bringing in AC power from my new sub-panel to the alarm panel. Once I got that wired in, I routed all the 16.5VAC Supply power from the transformers to the 2 boards, and got the batteries connected. I also managed to get all the modules wired together via keybus and began to wire the relays and polarity reversal modules for the smoke and CO detectors before it got late and I threw in the towel for the night. I want to get all the module-to-module wiring completed and function tested before I begin bringing in sensors, which I shouldn’t have a problem finishing up today. Currently I only have 8 of 32 zones ready to install, 3 of which are my driveway sensor and my 2 doorbells. These are wireless Dakota Alert units that send to a chime/receiver that has 3 relay outputs that will be assigned zones on the panel. The chime is also powered from the panel so in the event of a power outage, the zones are still functional.

I used a Channel Vision structured wiring enclosure instead of multiple small boxes to fit everything in one spot. I have 4 full width removable panels to which I have mounted all the main and expansion cards. There is (1) 1864 main board, (1) 5204 supervised power supply module, (2) PRM-4 polarity reversing modules, (2) Elk Relays for CO/Smoke activation, (1) EVL-3 to interface with Vera, (3) Terminal bus strips for cleaner motion sensor wiring, and (3) 5208 Zone expanders. Back up power consists of (3) 7aH batteries, 2 of which are wired to the 1864 and one to the 5204. This provides over 24hrs of standby power. The Channel Vision enclosure has an electrical box knockout on the bottom where a 120v box can be mounted and a receptacle wired directly into the inside of the box. I also have a Channel Vision power bar that supplies power to both 16.5VAC transformers. It looks tidy and is easy to work on. I have attached a picture of the panel as it sits. There is still a lot more wiring to go into this, so it will have every board full by the time I am complete.

PLEG

Making huge strides here. Tons of trial and error, but finally getting my PLEG legs! I have successfully programmed tons of lighting scenes using schedules, timers, sequences, conditional arguments etc… It gets easier by the day and my arguments are getting more complex. Thank you @RichardTSchaefer!

iBeacons

Decided to try out this technology with the VeraMate app. for a different approach to occupancy based automation. Have yet to receive them but I have plans ;). Keep you posted.

Android Wall Controller

This finally showed up! A little bigger than expected, but a nice little unit. Will tackle the install after I get as much done on the DSC as I can.

Surveillance

My 2 Foscam 9805E POE Outdoor cameras also arrived. Bench tested them and put them back in the box until the snow goes away to install them.

Networking

Ordered and received:

1 - Cat6 24 port patch panel
2 - Linksys 4 Port managed POE switch (one may be for sale if anyone is interested)
1 - 8U wall/ceiling mount rack

My current set-up sees 16 devices, but plan on hard wiring almost anything that is on wifi

Whole Home Audio

Got a killer deal on 4 - Sonos Play 1 speakers. Still not here but plan on installing in the master bedroom and den. Still require more…

Arduino Fan Controller

Haven’t bothered with this just yet. Plenty of other things to do… It’ll happen eventually :slight_smile:

Killer deal on Sonos??? do share :wink:

eBay. Canadian seller had 20 of them. Selling for $120USD each. Needless to to say, they didn’t last long.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

eBay. Canadian seller had 20 of them. Selling for $120USD each. Needless to to say, they didn’t last long.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/quote]

:rage:. Thanks

DSC System

I managed to complete all the module-to-module wiring in the panel and moved on to getting the zones wired in when I ran out of alarm wire. Due to my location, everything here is a pain in the ass to get. No Home Depot, Rona, or Lowes for 100 miles, and the local electrical supply store will bring anything in overnight, but charge you 50-75% more than you would normally pay if you aren’t an electrical contractor. They have caught me with my back against the wall a few times where I had to pay their extortionist pricing, and I won’t deal with them if I have other choices, so instead of paying $198CAD for 1000 ft of 22/4, I opted to pay $85CAD shipped on eBay. I’m going to be waiting a few days, but I don’t care. It’ll get done soon enough.

Weather Underground

I downloaded this plug-in to work with my Sonos system and also to use in conditional arguments when I finally get my 2 thermostats installed. This took a little bit of monkeying around, but I got it working fairly quickly. The key here is to get onto the Weather Underground website and find the weather station that you would like to use to import weather data from. When you do, set up a user name and password and register with the website. You will then need to get an API code (found in the ‘More’ dropdown tab in the website) that you will input on the ‘Settings’ page of the plug-in (see pic). For us Non-Americans who use Metric, you can also change the units on this page. The API code is free as long as you aren’t polling data at a ridiculously high frequency.

Sonos Whole Home Audio

My (4) Sonos Play:1 speakers arrived yesterday so I spent a great deal of time tinkering with them. These are great little units with decent sound and small form. I set 2 of them up with my iPhone and installed the Sonos and uPnP plug-ins on my Vera unit. With the help of an excellent YouTube video by @petewill found here, it took me just slightly longer than the 17:26 minute video to have mine up and running perfectly. Thank you Pete!

After I installed the WU and Sonos plug-ins, I also installed Say The Weather. This allows the weather, as well as weather alerts, to be spoken over the speakers and used in scenes. Pete also included an example of how to do this using code in his video, but he lost me at ‘luup’. He did include the code in his post, but it would require a great deal of messing around when the Say The Weather Plug-in accomplishes the same thing.

Estimote iBeacons

These little gadgets also showed up. Besides being ugly, I’m not too sure how impressed with them I am. I downloaded VeraMate and did a little bit of testing with them to determine range and how practical they will be. My intention is to use them to determine occupancy on a very broad scale, but I am finding that their range may not be adequate for them to work effectively. Maybe I just don’t yet understand how to USE them effectively. I don’t want them to track me from room-to-room, I will have motion detection to achieve that, just to know when we are present at the property. I want them to detect us arriving home to trigger light activation, alarm disarm, door unlock, etc… I have found that this means one must be mounted outside. Our frigid Canadian winters may not treat these devices very nicely. Also, as you move around the house, my log wall construction causes detection to be dropped easily. I’m thinking I may require more than the 3 devices I received in the Dev pack, or a bunch of programming with PLEG, to have effective arrival/departure triggered scenes. I am currently using the iPhone Locator app and it is really glitchy. I have also read that the geofence function on VeraMate suffers from the same issue and is caused by a flaky GPS signal from the phone.

XBMC

I ran across a post where there was an add-on created which allowed for Vera control from within XBMC. A few of us tried it and could not get it to work. I am trying to contact the writer of the program to see if maybe he would help us get it working with current versions of XBMC/Kodi. I have also asked for assistance over on the Kodi forums. I hope I can get this working.

To-do

At this point, I have tons of things that need to get done and need to focus on completing what I have at hand instead of adding to the list:

-finish wiring DSC panel and sensors
-install motion detection in 9 zones in the house.
-install Android wall-mount
-install rack, PoE switch, and patch panel
-run Cat6 all over the house
-install 2 thermostats
-install 2 cameras (summer)
-install Blue Iris and Blue Iris app (summer)
-get occupancy based triggers sorted out
-install whole-home surge protection
-finish the NetFan project
-get a board design for arduino controlled 12V lighting dimmers
-tons of scenes to get programmed in PLEG

DSC Panel/Dakota Alert System

Received my wire last Thursday and proceeded to finish up wiring my main panel with the sensors that I ran during renovations. This included 3 interior door sensors, 2 motion detectors, and 4 zones associated with my Dakota Alert DCR-2500 receiver. If you have kept an eye on my ‘build’ post, you would have noticed that I am using this unit primarily for my driveway sensor. I live on an acreage with a long driveway, so I wanted to place the sensor around 600-700ft from the house. This unit was the only one I could find that would survive the harsh winter climate, provide adequate range, and use an electromagnetic sensor instead of a motion sensor. I have neighbors with motion sensing driveway alerts and heavy snow storms can trip them, along with moose, deer, birds, etc. I want to detect cars, not wildlife, so I chose the electromagnetic type.

This unit also supports other devices and I picked up 3 UT2500 ‘universal transmitters’, 2 to act as doorbells, and 1 to act as a door sensor. These units have a push button to act as a stand-alone doorbell, NC, NO, and COM terminals to wire in existing doorbells, and also functions as a door sensor with the included magnet. 2 of them have been wired to my existing doorbell buttons using the terminals, and the third placed on an exterior door to which I was unable to run alarm wire during renovations.

The DCR 2500 receiver has 4 NC/NO relays, one for each of the channel inputs this unit supports. I have wired all the channels back into the DSC panel, each with its own zone, so Vera can recognize all of them individually thru the DSC plug-in. These relays are user programmable to trip for 1, 10, or 60 seconds, or even 10 minutes. Mine are set for 10 seconds.

I used the auxiliary power output of my alarm panel to supply power to the receiver, instead of supplying it with a 12V wall wart. This ensures that the unit stays active as long as the panel has power, as it supplies signal from 4 different zones. It has a very low standby power draw, so doesn’t adversely affect my panel’s standby power requirements. It also avoids the unit playing the doorbell chime every time the power is cycled. This would probably get annoying over time…

I had previously programmed my panel and had to do a few minor changes on the zones to make it all work with a few wiring revisions, which took me about 1/2 hour or so. I also had to change the zones on the Vera DSC plug in, which was fairly painless as well. I created a spreadsheet with all the zones, names, and zone types so it was easy to revise. I highly recommend that anyone installing large systems should do this, it saves a ton of headaches. I also drew out my panel and how it needed to be arranged to work best. This saved me a lot of grief as well. I laid out and set up the panel in June and didn’t get around to installing it until now, so having clear and concise notes was crucial.

After all the changes were made, I ran a Cat6 from the EVL-3 to my switch and reloaded Vera, and proceeded to test everything out. Everything worked perfect! I then set up a few scenes for the doorbells and driveway sensor, sending push notifications to my HomeWave app when nobody is home and the driveway sensor is tripped. I also set up a TTS announcement to all the Sonos speakers when someone pushes the doorbell.

I still have a ton of zones to wire into the panel, a few of which are exterior door zones. I will be replacing the doors in spring when the weather is a little milder, so I will install the sensors at that time. I also have tons of motions and interior doors sensors to wire in along with smokes and CO, so it should keep me busy for a while. I figure I have about 25% of the panel wired.

Attached a pic of the panel at present, as well as the inside of both the UT and DCR.

Lots more to come!

Nice. Excellent cable management!

Thank you! I have seen so many pictures of panel installs by installers that clearly get paid by the job and they are a mess. It’s worth the extra bit of time it takes to do a proper install. Especially in your own house.

PLEG, iPhone Locator, and Driveway sensor MAGIC!

Now that I have finally had a little time to get used to PLEG, and I have my driveway sensor dialed in perfectly, I figured I would try and execute a little location based automation with my Vera.

I have had the iPhone Locator app for quite some time now, and it works ‘most’ of the time. The issue that I have came across was that on occasion, it is a few km off. It doesn’t happen often, but often enough to be a PITA and render location based automation unreliable. We will be sitting watching TV and all the lights go out because VERA thinks we just left the house. Depending on how far away the poll placed me, it could be 10 minutes before it polls me again, so we have to go around and manually turn everything on that just turned off. Needless to say, the locator app quickly got permanently muted while I explored other options. It can also be a bit of a battery hog on the phone, but with the new iPhone 6 it isn’t as much of an issue. My missus also has an issue with a 3rd party app ‘tracking’ her, so she wouldn’t let me create an app to access her phone.

I decided that I would use PLEG and my driveway sensor to establish accurate location reporting, meager power consumption on the phone, and minimal location tracking with the app.

This is how I did it:

-Created 2 locator apps for each phone being tracked.
-By default, left both apps muted at all times.
-Created a PLEG trigger for both present and away on each locator (4 triggers per phone)
-Created a PLEG condition that unmutes, then polls both of the locator apps around 5 sec apart when the driveway sensor is tripped . The delay is put in place to ensure that both polls don’t get the same erroneous reading if one is sent. This same PLEG condition also repeats the poll when it senses that both locator apps are in different states, as in one present and one away, to ensure that they are both reading correctly.
-when both of the apps are reading the same, either a ‘present’ or ‘away’ PLEG condition executes various actions (depending on which one satisfies), and again mutes the apps.

I have been testing the set-up for a few days now and it seems to be working perfectly with my phone. I have also successfully convinced the missus to let me access her phone with the app, and will be adding a bunch more automation to the house based on both of our locations when I get a little spare time. For me, this was a huge win in the WAF department (although she has been very patient and supportive) as well as growing more confident with PLEG and scripting. PLEG is an amazing tool and I would be all but lost without it.

Thanks again @RichardTSchaefer !!!

Exterior Door Sensors and Lighting PLEG

Now that the weather is reasonable up here where I live, I tackled an exterior door replacement I intended to perform before winter hit, but didn’t manage to get around to it. I removed an existing original door that had seen better days with a new steel door with a window.

Since I was installing from scratch, I installed the hidden alarm panel door sensor inside the jamb which is almost invisible. I much prefer these to the exterior mounted version, as you cannot even tell that they are installed. That’s exactly what I want. These little units require you to drill a 3/8" hole in the jamb, along with a small 3/8" divot in the door itself to house the magnet. A light tap with a hammer and they install flush and snug.

I found out that testing is important after wiring the resistor onto the sensor incorrectly and having the alarm read the sensor ‘backwards’ (open was closed and vice-versa). After realizing what I had done and switching the wiring, the sensor worked perfectly. Its a good idea to do this before filling the gap with spray foam. :-\

After the sensor was installed and tested, I programmed Vera to turn on the exterior lights when it was dark and the door was opened. They are on a 15 min self re-trigger timer so every time the door is opened, the timer resets. The light is also operated from a wall switch just inside the door so my PLEG is almost identical to the first example in RexBeckett’s instructions where a motion sensor is used instead of a door switch. The example includes a 30 second delay function that I did not program into mine.

I have found that an accurate gauge for success is how impressed my missus is, and this one was very successful! She was extremely impressed with how it worked, mainly due in part to the fact that her least favorite door has now been replaced with a brand new, fully functioning door…

I have convinced myself that it was the PLEG…

I have found that an accurate gauge for success is how impressed my missus is.

Yes, that is the gold standard of home automation. ;D Have you considered installing sensors in the door locks as well? That’s something my GF appreciates; when we hit the “go to bed” button before we turn in, the system will warn us (over a Sonos speaker) if any door is left unlocked.

All of my door locks are Z-wave, and are set up to automatically lock in the evening. I also have it set so if they are unlocked after the pre-set lock time, they will only remain unlocked for 10 min.

I too have Sonos, and it wasn’t a big hit with the missus. The exact quote was “Can you shut that robot lady up!?”

@intveltr - can you elaborate a bit on what you mean in regards to the sensors in door locks? It sounds like you don’t have zwave locks, but somehow have them monitored and hooked up to vera. How? Also, could you share the luup code or logic you have setup for the sonos to alert you if any door is unlocked?

Thanks

I don’t have Z-Wave locks except on the shed; Here in Europe there’s not a great selection of them. I mounted reed switches into the bolt wells, and small magnets into the bolts, with the switches wired up to Z-Wave door sensors. That way Vera can check if the doors are actually locked.

I noticed that you had some issues with POE being 48V… I wanted to make you aware of this adapter in case it can be of use:
http://www.amazon.com/WS-POE-12v-ethernet-Splitter-devices-outdoor/dp/B00EBCQ5FM/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1429742164&sr=1-2&keywords=ws-poe+12v

It will split out the power out of a POE line and reduce voltage to 12V… there is also a similar device for 5V.

You probably already figured something out, but this might help.

[quote=“cbutters, post:79, topic:180819”]I noticed that you had some issues with POE being 48V… I wanted to make you aware of this adapter in case it can be of use:
http://www.amazon.com/WS-POE-12v-ethernet-Splitter-devices-outdoor/dp/B00EBCQ5FM/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1429742164&sr=1-2&keywords=ws-poe+12v

It will split out the power out of a POE line and reduce voltage to 12V… there is also a similar device for 5V.

You probably already figured something out, but this might help.[/quote]

I use this (5v version) as I ran Ethernet behind a wall to mount a wireless tablet charger to my wall. The adapters work great. Supplies the power it says.