verifying 3-way wiring

I am looking to install an aeon micro switch into a 3-way set up to control an overhead fluorescent light.

I would rather go with the microswitch so I can keep the stock look of the switches (is there a replacement toggle switch that isn’t a rocker, or slide type switch?)

I would like to retain the local switch control so I’ll need to install at the switch (I assume)

but based on the research I have done I may need to pull wire depending on how things are wired currently (which is a deal breaker for me as I can’t pull wire in my condo)

I am not an electrician, but I can replace a breaker with out killing myself. How would I go about testing how my switches are currently wired.

I am looking to use these to because I really prefer to keep existing switches I have.

Not sure this is what you are looking for but I have been reading allot & did find this on manufactures site which looks promising. [url=http://aeotec.com/support/1219-micro-switch-wiring-schematics.html]http://aeotec.com/support/1219-micro-switch-wiring-schematics.html[/url]

OK has to be and on/off switch only.

[quote=“chuque, post:1, topic:184215”]I would rather go with the microswitch so I can keep the stock look of the switches (is there a replacement toggle switch that isn’t a rocker, or slide type switch?)[/quote] Ok, thats your decision. Do you have some new awesome switches?

[quote=“chuque, post:1, topic:184215”]I would like to retain the local switch control so I’ll need to install at the switch (I assume)[/quote] This is not true, and if you don’t have neutral at the switch not even possible.

[quote=“chuque, post:1, topic:184215”]but based on the research I have done I may need to pull wire depending on how things are wired currently (which is a deal breaker for me as I can’t pull wire in my condo)[/quote] Every 0n/0ff z-wave switch (microswitch or not) needs a neutral wire. Weather you have one in the switch box or not is up to you to find out. If you don’t then no z-wave on/off switch can be installed in there without extra wiring to get a neutral wire there.

Remove the cover look in the box and see how many wires you have in there. Old wiring only has one wire into the switch and one wire out of the switch. Newer setups with neutrals will have a few white wires in the back corner of the box all wire nutted together.

Post pictures if you have to.

If you don’t have neutrals we can go onto possibly installing a micro switch in the ceiling at the light box.

[quote=“integlikewhoa, post:3, topic:184215”][quote=“chuque, post:1, topic:184215”]but based on the research I have done I may need to pull wire depending on how things are wired currently (which is a deal breaker for me as I can’t pull wire in my condo)[/quote] Every 0n/0ff z-wave switch (microswitch or not) needs a neutral wire. Weather you have one in the switch box or not is up to you to find out. If you don’t then no z-wave on/off switch can be installed in there without extra wiring to get a neutral wire there.

Remove the cover look in the box and see how many wires you have in there. Old wiring only has one wire into the switch and one wire out of the switch. Newer setups with neutrals will have a few white wires in the back corner of the box all wire nutted together.

Post pictures if you have to.

If you don’t have neutrals we can go onto possibly installing a micro switch in the ceiling at the light box.[/quote]

I do know that I have neutrals pulled but based on what I have read a second “traveler wire” may be needed from stitch A to B

If you have neturals in all your boxes, your installs will go easy. No 2nd traveler wire is needed with a smart switch or my GE switches.

If your going to install a smart switch it’s just going to wire between the light bulb (load) and the main switch. Doesn’t matter how many aux switches or whats going to them. They are working now and when you add in the middle nothing changes on that end. This might help.

http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php?topic=26491.0