I just got my Vera 2 because it was recommended by a friend and the reviews were very good. I love the idea of an appliance.
I think the Vera 2 setup is very good UNTIL you get to adding devices. It keeps talking about the dongle. My Quick Start instructions talk about the battery to carry around to pair the Z-Wave devices. It is obvious that the dongle was no longer needed or built in to the Vera 2.
Where micasaverde can do a MUCH BETTER job is simply grokking that if someone is a new user of a Vera 2, then do not send them to the Vera 1 instructions when they are setting up their Vera 2. I googled around and found the instructions buried at micasaverde on how to use the new Vera 2. While it was not exactly like the pairing (some of the Z-Wave light fluttering did show as expected), it did work.
Like I said, I like everything about this, but the documentation to the new Vera 2 should simply be there by now. I just got this and I have a few questions:
[ul][li]When will this issue be addressed?[/li][/ul]
[list]
[li]Should I read anything into the customer support or viability of micasaverde if they have not updated this by now?
[ul][li]What are the experiences with customer support and the long term viability of micasaverde? [/li] [li]Is this just a blip, or a symptom of something bigger? [/li] [li]If it is, I will return to SmartHome and look for a different Z-Wave solution. I would rather not though, because I think they are exactly right in their design of an appliance…
[/li][/ul]
Thanks for everyone’s honest replies to this brand new user of Vera 2.
There are posts like this all over this board (including one of my own) and the truth is, it’s far from perfect.
I went both feet in, believing everything I read on the website and bought a complete house full of z-wave…it’s not worked out all that great. I’ve killed all the scenes I created and have walked away from it for now. I can control lights and a/c with my phone and that’ good enough until they decide to support this product like they did the first version. I’ve also had several switches quite on me and don’t even get me started with integrating cameras. Plus, the added bonus of having the bedroom light turn on every half hour in the middle of the night hasn’t helped me convince my wife this is a good idea…AT ALL.
I’m actually hopefull though, I think they are putting so much effort in the next UI that I really hope they support it. In the mean time, I’ll be replacing switches as they go out (in my opinion avoid the GE switches).
Good luck
Thanks a lot - I really appreciate it. I will take your advice and stay away from scenes. I am just at the beginning of purchasing devices. I have heard negative comments about GE as well. In terms of basic on/off light switches, 3 way dimmers and basic wall outlets, is there a vendor you prefer?
Thanks
From what I’ve read, GE 45609 is fine for simple on/off control stuff.
I’m going to be receiving a few soon and hope it works out.
I’ve also read that the Leviton stuff is about as good as it gets for us…
I’ll agree with mario23, the GE on/off switches have worked out ok for me but the 3 way dimmers are failing at an alarming rate. I do have several Lvitron switches that work very well too. If you have relatively deep pockets, go for the Levitron.
A lot of people here will gasp in horror but I do a lot of research on a product then see if amazon.com has it available. The only reason being, they are easy to deal with, take returns with no fuss and I get free shipping. Another source I’ve bought from is http://www.zwaveproducts.com/ though they seem to be back ordered on the GE on/off switches right now.
You folks are really haviing issues with the GE products. Please let me know what exactly is going wrong.
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are you using them to turn on a Flourescent? Not a good Idea unless it is rated for that.
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are you using them to control a switched outlet? Make sure you do not overload them.
I do know that you cannot over load these switches they will fail. You cannot accidentally short them out they will fail.
I have used the internmatic and the Ge jasco with no issues. If you have issues I know Ge will take them back. I know contacts at GE If anyone has return issues.
[quote=“zmistro, post:6, topic:166227”]You folks are really haviing issues with the GE products. Please let me know what exactly is going wrong.
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are you using them to turn on a Flourescent? Not a good Idea unless it is rated for that.
-
are you using them to control a switched outlet? Make sure you do not overload them.
I do know that you cannot over load these switches they will fail. You cannot accidentally short them out they will fail.
I have used the internmatic and the Ge jasco with no issues. If you have issues I know Ge will take them back. I know contacts at GE If anyone has return issues.[/quote]
In my case, every one that has failed has been 3 way switches to regular, non-fluorescent bulbs. There doesn’t seem to be any rhyme or reason for the failures, they just stop working. To start with, they won’t work any distance over 15 or so feet in my house, which is of course a major problem so I’ve had to use other brands (mostly Levitron so far) but in a few cases the switches are literally within 5 feet of each other and still fail. Even after they’ve been installed and worked, they simply stop working after a while, some within days and some over a month. If I put a replacement GE in, they work just fine again.
I have tried calling the GE support number a few times but the ladies that work the phones don’t seem to know how they work and their promises of having a tech call back as soon as possible never seems to happen. I can’t get them to take them back until a tech trouble shoots them first (see the do-loop I’m stuck in here?). I did find a really cool guy at my local Radio Shack who was willing to exchange them for me but he got promoted to another store so I’m back to square one. I’m learning that there is simply some loss involved in doing this z-wave stuff and to suck it up and deal with it. This includes all these GE products, I just have to buy a higher quality product as these things fail and accept the loss.
@mbairhead,
I’ve had my Vera for about a year and although its sometimes been a pain along the way during upgrades etc, Its never accidentally turned a light on and my scenes all work fine! Some of my scenes are quite complex that include timers, power, switching of AV sources via RS232/IR along with a couple of other devices which are IP based and they always work as expected! I also have a really varied bunch of switches and modules including GE, Intermattic and Leviton and none of them has ever failed either.
I have 3 GE switches: one is a dimmer controlling a regular incandescent bulb (I only really have this because of its beaming capability and my door lock) and also two other Relay based ones: one switches LED lighting and the other switches fluorescents; again no problems!
I’m not posting this to say Vera is perfect, or that you may not have had problems, but just to balance your negative experience with my positive one and say there an awful lot of us that are content with the product and its affordability!
@Datsun 240z,
I bought my GE switches from Lowes, and although they are not the cheapest, they would be easy to return if need be. If the cost was a problem option then you could save 10% easily by buying Lowes coupons from Ebay.
[quote=“mbairhead, post:7, topic:166227”]In my case, every one that has failed has been 3 way switches to regular, non-fluorescent bulbs. There doesn’t seem to be any rhyme or reason for the failures, they just stop working. To start with, they won’t work any distance over 15 or so feet in my house, which is of course a major problem so I’ve had to use other brands (mostly Levitron so far) but in a few cases the switches are literally within 5 feet of each other and still fail. Even after they’ve been installed and worked, they simply stop working after a while, some within days and some over a month. If I put a replacement GE in, they work just fine again.
I have tried calling the GE support number a few times but the ladies that work the phones don’t seem to know how they work and their promises of having a tech call back as soon as possible never seems to happen. I can’t get them to take them back until a tech trouble shoots them first (see the do-loop I’m stuck in here?). I did find a really cool guy at my local Radio Shack who was willing to exchange them for me but he got promoted to another store so I’m back to square one. I’m learning that there is simply some loss involved in doing this z-wave stuff and to suck it up and deal with it. This includes all these GE products, I just have to buy a higher quality product as these things fail and accept the loss.[/quote]
I wonder if there is a problem with your 3-way set-up?
Do you know how your 3-way is wired. Is is a standard 3-way set up where the hot comes in and leaves the first box with a 3 wire ( 2 -travelers and a nuetral) to the next box? or does it have hots at both ends or does it do some unconventional thing where it switches the nuetral? Can you draw a picture?
[quote=“zmistro, post:9, topic:166227”][quote=“mbairhead, post:7, topic:166227”]In my case, every one that has failed has been 3 way switches to regular, non-fluorescent bulbs. There doesn’t seem to be any rhyme or reason for the failures, they just stop working. To start with, they won’t work any distance over 15 or so feet in my house, which is of course a major problem so I’ve had to use other brands (mostly Levitron so far) but in a few cases the switches are literally within 5 feet of each other and still fail. Even after they’ve been installed and worked, they simply stop working after a while, some within days and some over a month. If I put a replacement GE in, they work just fine again.
I have tried calling the GE support number a few times but the ladies that work the phones don’t seem to know how they work and their promises of having a tech call back as soon as possible never seems to happen. I can’t get them to take them back until a tech trouble shoots them first (see the do-loop I’m stuck in here?). I did find a really cool guy at my local Radio Shack who was willing to exchange them for me but he got promoted to another store so I’m back to square one. I’m learning that there is simply some loss involved in doing this z-wave stuff and to suck it up and deal with it. This includes all these GE products, I just have to buy a higher quality product as these things fail and accept the loss.[/quote]
I wonder if there is a problem with your 3-way set-up?
Do you know how your 3-way is wired. Is is a standard 3-way set up where the hot comes in and leaves the first box with a 3 wire ( 2 -travelers and a nuetral) to the next box? or does it have hots at both ends or does it do some unconventional thing where it switches the nuetral? Can you draw a picture?[/quote]
I questioned what I was doing when I was doing it so I called in an electrician and he said it was all good and those switches were crap. I kept pushing and working with them and kept having failures so I called in another electrician in from a different company, same answer, all wired up right but switches suck (this guy actually said he wouldn’t install the GE’s if I hadn’t already done it). The house is less than 2 years old so construction materials is a very unlikely cause (such as old stucko walls).
Well I am a licensed electrician for over 10 years been a journeyman/master for a total of 20 years. I have used many a dimmers in my time. I have seen the failures. Most have been due to shorts from changing a bulb or over loading the dimmer.
The mere fact that you have replaced so many units leads me to think you have some other issue going on.
In your case I think the electrician was out of line saying that the Ge product is crap. I’m not sure electronically the Leviton or the Cooper are better. The Zwave board is the same in all of the products. I have had many an employee like the one you had come to your home.
I have seen loose wires and such take out a dimmer.
How many watts of light bulbs do you have installed?
I don’t think a different brand will solve the issue as my gut tells me there is something else going on. I hate to see you burn up another dimmer.
I am usually pretty good a diagnosis of these problems.
So if you can let me know exactly your setup.
You can PM me if you wish.
[quote=“zmistro, post:11, topic:166227”]Well I am a licensed electrician for over 10 years been a journeyman/master for a total of 20 years. I have used many a dimmers in my time. I have seen the failures. Most have been due to shorts from changing a bulb or over loading the dimmer.
The mere fact that you have replaced so many units leads me to think you have some other issue going on.
In your case I think the electrician was out of line saying that the Ge product is crap. I’m not sure electronically the Leviton or the Cooper are better. The Zwave board is the same in all of the products. I have had many an employee like the one you had come to your home.
I have seen loose wires and such take out a dimmer.
How many watts of light bulbs do you have installed?
I don’t think a different brand will solve the issue as my gut tells me there is something else going on. I hate to see you burn up another dimmer.
I am usually pretty good a diagnosis of these problems.
So if you can let me know exactly your setup.
You can PM me if you wish.[/quote]
I can’t mess with it this week but that’s very cool of you to want to help and I may send you a note next week.
I have to be honest though, I’ve had two professionals come and look, I’ve had someone from the z-wave forum try to trouble shoot over the phone and I’m no slouch when it comes to wiring either (though this has shaken me a little, to be honest). In every case…bar NONE, when I’ve put in the Levitron switch, no problems and no failures.
The GE is kinda crappy, sorry to say (I mean who uses a candy cane colored wire…really?) and the traveler wire is tiny, none of that’s called for, they could have just as easily used industry standards.