Using Vera with Home Link car remote

Anyone successful with Car2U? I successfully programed my Honda with Homelink - piece of cake, however, on my Fusion which is Car2U, the only button I can get to program is button 3. The WD manual says to refer to car manufacturer manual to program buttons 1 and 2 to scenes as these are used for rolling codes. The Fusion manual is unclear on how to use these 2 buttons for scenes and not for rolling codes? Am I missing something here? Thanks to all the previous posters or I would have never gotten this far!

Hi all,
Wondering if anyone had any further tips about geting the WD gateway going wit. a Vera lite. I have been using the WD for several years as a primary controller with no issues. I now have the vera lite, so I factorey reset the WD gateway and added it to the Vera Lite. It is detected right away. I created several scenes and added triggers using scene 1, 2 and 3. The scenes work fine if i test them from the vera lite interface. However, the scenes are not triggered by the WD gateway buttons. I have added and removed and resetup the WD device and the scenes several time now with no luck. Is there any further configuration beyond the write up earlier in this thread?

Thanks!

Something to check/try…

I think I remember having an issue with mine until I replaced the battery on mine at some point. Its a while back, and I cant remember exactly how it was failing (either buttons not working, or inclusion), but I know changing the battery fixed it.

[quote=“stefhelm”]Hi all,
Wondering if anyone had any further tips about geting the WD gateway going wit. a Vera lite. I have been using the WD for several years as a primary controller with no issues. I now have the vera lite, so I factorey reset the WD gateway and added it to the Vera Lite. It is detected right away. I created several scenes and added triggers using scene 1, 2 and 3. The scenes work fine if i test them from the vera lite interface. However, the scenes are not triggered by the WD gateway buttons. I have added and removed and resetup the WD device and the scenes several time now with no luck. Is there any further configuration beyond the write up earlier in this thread?

Thanks![/quote]

After you set up the buttons, did you re-add the gateway?

Sent from my SGH-I317 using Tapatalk

[quote=“strangely, post:43, topic:164111”]Something to check/try…

I think I remember having an issue with mine until I replaced the battery on mine at some point. Its a while back, and I cant remember exactly how it was failing (either buttons not working, or inclusion), but I know changing the battery fixed it.[/quote]

Have a new 9V ready to go to try this idea.

As for adding the device twice, I am not sure this is working as it should The second adding doesn’t seem to complete properly (3 lights pause momentarily, but don’t stop flashing on the gateway as they should).

I will try a new battery and at least rule that out before I try too much else.

yth8320zw1007[quote=“kirkla79, post:44, topic:164111”][quote=“stefhelm”]Hi all,
Wondering if anyone had any further tips about geting the WD gateway going wit. a Vera lite. I have been using the WD for several years as a primary controller with no issues. I now have the vera lite, so I factorey reset the WD gateway and added it to the Vera Lite. It is detected right away. I created several scenes and added triggers using scene 1, 2 and 3. The scenes work fine if i test them from the vera lite interface. However, the scenes are not triggered by the WD gateway buttons. I have added and removed and resetup the WD device and the scenes several time now with no luck. Is there any further configuration beyond the write up earlier in this thread?

Thanks![/quote]
After you set up the buttons, did you re-add the gateway?

Sent from my SGH-I317 using Tapatalk[/quote]

Maybe a silly question, but is the re-adding process the same as initially adding? It doesn’t seem to work. It never detects the controller the second time unless I first remove it and then re add it.

Also, my device is wdha-12, not 12R. Could this be an issue? I also noticed a note about the scene copy failing as I added the device. This thing just will not work!

It is unfortune as this was my primary controller for my garage lights before and it worked perfectly with my homelink, and I used it daily. I may just exclude my garage lights from my Vera lite an re-setup the garage independantly with the WDHA as the controller again.

Hi again, so thanks for the responses. I have the system working to my liking now. I did not create scenes and add triggers in the vera lite as was suggested. This definitely would not take. I would like to know why, as there are many clear how-tos that I am sure I followed, but I suppose it doesnt really matter. What I did was just add the device as a secondary controller and manually set up the scenes on button one and two by adding each light switch state individually. (Ie. Take the WDHA to the garage and add on from each switch to button one and off from each switch to button two). So the WDHA is not triggering scenes on the vera lite, it is running it’s own scenes. The vera lite polls the switches every 60 seconds, so the worst thing in this setup is that the light switch status isn’t instantly updated on the vera lite interface, but that is hardly a concern.

Lots of good info on this forum. I’m sure I’ll be back.
Thanks,
Stefan

[quote=“ChrisTheC, post:30, topic:164111”]I paraphrased some of the following 6 steps from page 10 of the new manual I received (or page 11 of the WDHA-12R that I downloaded) and general Vera stuff. The step numbers below correspond to the way I did this, not the step numbers in the manual.

Step 1 - Place Wireless Gateway within 6 feet of the Vera 3 (well, that is sort of what step 1 of the manual says)

Step 2 - Press and Hold the COPY button, then (while still holding the COPY) press and hold the Scene 1 button for 3 seconds until the LEDs all light up on the device. Let go of all buttons and all 3 LEDs will be flashing.

Step 3 - Hurry up back to my computer to add the device via: Devices > Add Devices > Advanced Z-Wave devices - (Add) > Add One (this is the option that states “Recommended: Add the device to remote Vera’s network, letting Vera be the primary controller”) I think the WDHA manual says it has to be done within 20 seconds, so have your Vera web page ready.

After you click “Add One”, Vera does it’s thing adding the device & node, and does a reload.

Step 4 - (I’m using Chrome), refresh your browser

Now under devices (no room) I have the new device called _Scene Controller. The first thing I did was to rename it “WD_Controller” which of course required another save, reload, & refresh.

Anyway, there are no configuration options that I can see. I ignored the WDHA manual for now & continued with Vera.

Step 5 - In Vera > Automation, I created three new simple scenes for testing. Heck, I am just learning what a scene is, so I just wanted something simple that I know (hoped) will work. I named them: HomeLink-1, HomeLink-2, & HomeLink-3. These scenes do nothing, I figure I can add stuff to each later.

In each of these scenes, I then created a trigger named WDButton1 for the first scene, WDButton2 for the second scene, WDButton3 for the third. Each trigger was my new device #74 WD_Controller. The type of event was “A scene is activated”, for “Which scene number”, I put the number that corresponds to the button on the Wayne Dalton. I could have had each scene turn a light on, or off, or whatever, but for now I chose in the Edit trigger options “Optional: Which of the following users . . .” so that I can send an alert to my cell phone each time the scenes were activated. (if I was going to have to test outside in my car, I just needed my phone to alert me if the scene activated)

Step 6 - okay, then I tested the Wayne Dalton device in the house. I plugged it into the wall and pressed the Scene 1 button. I got an alert on my phone that button 1 was pressed. I pressed the other 2 buttons and got the proper notifications. I think this part of the setup is good. The 3 buttons work to trigger scenes in the Vera. so I’m ready to move to the car & try to configure the HomeLink portion.[/quote]

Thanks @ChrisTheC, I added this device today and it works great a 3 button scene controller. I can now fire 3 scenes from my car’s integrated buttons on the visor. Cost only $20 and 2 hours of time.

I’ll confirm it only will pair when the Vera and WDHA-12R is within 6ft of the base unit (will get failed to enter learning mode otherwise).

I have a WD and Cooper unit working with scenes I previously had. I followed the instructions for adding the devices as a secondary controller, then in my already created scenes, I added the individual buttons as triggers. Works great, except there is a bit of a lag to go through Vera opposed to programming the lights directly to the WD/Cooper units. The upside is that you can have all the added scene customizations that Vera gives, whereas the built in buttons only allow for on/off/preset dimming if directly programmed. However if directly programmed the scene is executed immediately with no lag. Both the WD and Cooper units are the same and work the same. Just different labeling on the outside. I have a couple Cooper 3 button remotes and a WD remote working with the combination of controllers as well as a garage door opener (One button on the remote is programmed to the garage door, the other 5 settings send commands to the controllers to control scenes. My cars also send scene commands to the units.

This is interesting. I currently have a scene, launched from my smartphone, that opens my garage door, turns on lights (if after dark), unlocks the kitchen door (entry from garage) and disarms my alarm. I have another scene that does the opposite of all that when leaving.

I have a HomeLink control in my visor and would like to be able to use just that to execute these scenes, but I’m a little concerned about having a button in my car that unlocks the door and disarms my alarm. Has anyone been able to set this up with PLEG so it only functions during a certain time window? Or do you think I should avoid it altogether?

I have a keypad on my garage entry kitchen door.

Entering a correct pin will open the door and disarm the alarm.

I don’t think you need the two step as shown above…because kicking in your door is probably easier than hacking RF.

[quote=“AgileHumor, post:51, topic:164111”]I have a keypad on my garage entry kitchen door.

Entering a correct pin will open the door and disarm the alarm.

I don’t think you need the two step as shown above…because kicking in your door is probably easier than hacking RF.[/quote]

I have mine setup that way as well. It’s just nice executing 1 scene and being able to walk straight into the house.

I’m just not sure about having that scene executed by HomeLink in my car - if someone were to break into my car into the middle of the night (highly unlikely), then they just have to press one button to open the doors and disable the alarm.

Now, if I could write a PLEG to only allow the scene to execute from that device during certain time windows, then that would help.

Absolute times may also be used as terms in a sequence expression.

Away AlarmSet and (08:00:00; AlarmSet; 21:00:00)

Away will become true if AlarmSet becomes true between 08:00:00 and 21:00:00

Page 12 of PLEG Basics PDF guide put together by Rex
http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php/topic,21603.0.html

I was thinking it would be nice if your car alarm could fire a scene, that condition could block your scene…sadly that is not possible as far as I know. Maybe you will need to enter a sequence of homelink buttons (button 1, 2, 1, 3) as a pin if your considered “Home” (such as at night)…but a single button will open if it knows no one is home (per Nest or motion sensors).

I like having the “two factor authentication” using an IT term.

[quote=“AgileHumor, post:53, topic:164111”]Absolute times may also be used as terms in a sequence expression.

Away AlarmSet and (08:00:00; AlarmSet; 21:00:00)

Away will become true if AlarmSet becomes true between 08:00:00 and 21:00:00

Page 12 of PLEG Basics PDF guide put together by Rex
http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php/topic,21603.0.html

I was thinking it would be nice if your car alarm could fire a scene, that condition could block your scene…sadly that is not possible as far as I know. Maybe you will need to enter a sequence of homelink buttons (button 1, 2, 1, 3) as a pin if your considered “Home” (such as at night)…but a single button will open if it knows no one is home (per Nest or motion sensors).

I like having the “two factor authentication” using an IT term.[/quote]

That’s actually not a bad idea. A sequence would be beautiful solution.

Does anyone have any luck with the WDHA-12 and UI6. I’ve spent hours trying to get the device to trigger a scene while pugged into the wall.

Please help…

Did you ever have any luck with this? I had a WDHA-12 working great before upgrading. Ever since I can re-add it but it won’t run any scenes and every time I try to configure it I just get an error.

Anyone having any luck with this with Ui7?
I can pair the device, create scenes, and choose the buttons on the device as the triggers. But pushing the buttons on the device is not firing the events.

For what it’s worth, I updated to the latest UI7 firmware (1.7.439), re-paired the device, recreated the scenes, and it appears to be working as advertised now. Thanks to ChrisTheC for the detailed instructions.

Not sure if it was fixed in the firmware update, or whether or not the 7th attempt at re-pairing the device did the trick. But it’s working now!!

[quote=“sgs, post:58, topic:164111”]For what it’s worth, I updated to the latest UI7 firmware (1.7.439), re-paired the device, recreated the scenes, and it appears to be working as advertised now. Thanks to ChrisTheC for the detailed instructions.

Not sure if it was fixed in the firmware update, or whether or not the 7th attempt at re-pairing the device did the trick. But it’s working now!![/quote]
Unfortunately, I’m having the opposite result. I’ve updated my Vera to UI7 1.7.481, and just like you before you updated the firmware I can get the device to respond to my car just fine, but for the life of me I can’t seem to get it to talk to vera. I’ve deleted it, re-added it, re-re-added it, factory reset it and re-added it, but still pushing the buttons on the device - or in the car - doesn’t trigger anything on the Vera. I don’t even see evidence in the LLuP log. It was working fine in UI5 :frowning:

Here’s what finally worked for me after a couple hours of trying different things based on hunches.

I have a vera-lite, a WDHA-12/Wayne Dalton/Car2U wireless gateway ($20 from ebay), and a built-in car remote control that I pulled out of a random wreck at the car wrecker yard ($1) which has a HomeLink logo, three buttons, and one yellow LED.

  1. First find instructions elsewhere to get the WDHA-12 talking nicely with the vera. (basically, pair it like any other z-wave device, then set up 3 scenes (WDHA-1, WDHA-2 & WDHA-3) and a trigger from each WDHA-12 button to each scene). Once you have things built so you can press each of the three WDHA-12 buttons and have the vera activate scenes 1, 2 and 3, you are ready to get the car-remote playing nicely with the WDHA-12.

  2. Next, to be sure you’re starting at the start, hold down the two outside buttons of the car remote until the LED is flashing quickly… then release. This resets the remote (I presume). (I found you could keep holding the two buttons and eventually the fast blinking would stop, and the remote would then be reset into some OTHER mode, but I can only speculate what THAT mode was for. I couldn’t get any farther with it. So for now, just release the buttons as soon as you see the fast blinking.).

At this point, if you hold down any car remote button, it should be flashing slowly. I think this means the button is empty(unprogrammed). Now, (if I’m correct,) what we’re going to do next appears to program a useful code into it (thats all I know):

  1. Next, hold the WDHA-12 (with good battery inside) right next to your car remote, and hold down the WDHA-12 scene 1 button… it’s LED will go on, then off, then on again and will stay on until you release the button (later). Once this LED has gone on/off/on, now hold down the car remote button #1, and if it’s like mine, it will start to flash slowly. Just hold it. After many seconds (I’d say about 20), it will stop flashing. Now release the car remote button (you should still be holding down the WDHA-12 scene 1 button at this point). After you’ve released the car remote button, wait another 5…10 seconds or so, and then release the WDHA-12 button. The car remote button is now programmed (I guess). If the procedure has worked, NOW if you hold down the car remote button #1, instead of flashing, the LED stays on solid while you are pressing the button (indicating that it is transmitting a code!). So the next and final step is to program the WDHA-12 to obey the car remote button. This is easy:

  2. Hold down the WDHA-12 scene 1 button until the led goes on and off AND THEN RELEASE (before it comes back on again.) Now it is in LEARN mode (I presume). Now press the car remote button 1, and you should see the WDHA-12 scene 1 LED flash quickly three times (as it learns the car remote’s code). Voila! Command 1 is completely done! Now when you press button 1 on the car remote, your WDHA-12 Scene1 LED flashes, and consequently your vera scene WDHA-1 should trigger. (you may have to plug the WDHA-12 into 110v for this to work… run an ext. cord to your car? I didn’t pay attention to why this sometimes does and doesn’t work on battery).

Repeat steps 3 and 4 using the car remote button 2 and the WDHA-12 scene button 2, and then the #3 buttons, and you’re done! (well, except for trying to think of something actually PRACTICAL to do with this crap!)

There are probably a lot of combinations of slightly different hardware out there and they may require slightly different steps, and I’m sure the engineers who built this stuff could point out stipulations I made which are unnecessary, but all I know is that this is what WORKED! for me. I just thought I’d type this out in the hope it saves at least one other person some frustration.

Now when it warms up outside, I’m going to mount this car remote into my wife’s car somewhere, and then try to get the WDHA-12 to ALSO listen to my truck’s built in homelink buttons, and then convince myself it was worth the effort.

Good luck my friends! 8)
-Ryan.

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